2.8 mu

[mr terrano]

hey guys just wanting to know what you guys do to your 2.8 l turbo engines to get better preformance thinking of making an exust and better turbo setup?

[muddy]

No direct help, but I'd be looking here...
http://www.clubisuzu.com/

[Mr Revhead]

Yep lots of info on there.

A 2.5" exhaust helps a lot, infact it's a must. Little bit of work involved in the turbo end.
I fitted a 3.1 oil cooler to allow more room.

There is a Subaru turbo which can be used as the basis for a better one.
Intercooler, you can fit a bighorn one, although if you can water to air is better assuming you want to go off road.
Snorkel with proper intake design.

Once you've done that you can tweak the pump and up the boost. But only after you have a good EGT gauge

[mr terrano]

Yep lots of info on there.

A 2.5" exhaust helps a lot, infact it's a must. Little bit of work involved in the turbo end.
I fitted a 3.1 oil cooler to allow more room.

There is a Subaru turbo which can be used as the basis for a better one.
Intercooler, you can fit a bighorn one, although if you can water to air is better assuming you want to go off road.
Snorkel with proper intake design.

Once you've done that you can tweak the pump and up the boost. But only after you have a good EGT gauge

thanks bro good starting point

[Mattman]

I have a 3.1 with a couple more psi due to a stuck wastegate, and a tiny bit more fuel. Egt and boost gauges.

I did those mods after replacing the whole cooling system.

Matt.

[buried]

Add intercooler if it doesnt have one.
Free up the intake.
2.5-3" exhaust.
The Subaru turbo is a vf10 from an early 90's legacy RS($175+gst from strong for isuzu), you will need to get someone to weld a snout on the front as the bolt on right angle is a pain to do anything with.
I used the standard wastegate actuator, had to make up a 3mm steel adaptor bracket and grind a bit off the factory dump for the actuator to move freely. You bolt the Core and front into the isuzu exhaust housing.

To give an indication; factory turbo was running 14psi (stock) and with the same actuator the vf10 was only putting out 7psi - boosted up to 11psi and i can acelerate up most hill's on the highway with 31's (lwb bighorn)

I havnt touched fuel because i dont have a bigger exhaust and dont want the extra heat and i'd say it goes alot better than stock.

[nivaman]

Add intercooler if it doesnt have one.
Free up the intake.
2.5-3" exhaust.
The Subaru turbo is a vf10 from an early 90's legacy RS($175+gst from strong for Isuzu), you will need to get someone to weld a snout on the front as the bolt on right angle is a pain to do anything with.
I used the standard wastegate actuator, had to make up a 3mm steel adapter bracket and grind a bit off the factory dump for the actuator to move freely. You bolt the Core and front into the Isuzu exhaust housing.

To give an indication; factory turbo was running 14psi (stock) and with the same actuator the vf10 was only putting out 7psi - boosted up to 11psi and i can accelerate up most hill's on the highway with 31's (lwb bighorn)

I haven't touched fuel because i don't have a bigger exhaust and don't want the extra heat and I'd say it goes a lot better than stock.

So what does the vf10 boost to?, 11psi or comparable to the Isuzu turbo?.

[buried]

the vf10 @ 7psi was compairable to the stock turbo at 14psi. (seat of pants dyno)
I upped the boost to 11psi (reaches this at about 2000rpm).

The VF10 itself will happily go 18-20psi, depends how much you want to push the engine.

[mud_slinger]

im running 15psi on a hybrid turbo, standard core but diff exhaust housing, compressor wheel etc, at 100km creeps to 17psi. all i have done is intercool, custom 3inch dump pipe to a 2.5 inch exhaust, snorkle. goes pretty well

[85bj71]

i had a 2.8 bighorn, 250km, fitted 2.5" exhaust and the 3.1 model turbo and intercooler, egt guage, wound up fuel and 23psi, i put 10'000kmm on it and coudnt kill it

[mr terrano]

the vf10 @ 7psi was compairable to the stock turbo at 14psi. (seat of pants dyno)
I upped the boost to 11psi (reaches this at about 2000rpm).

The VF10 itself will happily go 18-20psi, depends how much you want to push the engine.

took it to beach it goes ok but want to give it something to make it go a bit better found that it was a lil laggy so am thinking a turbo upgrade intercooler and exust will do a good job also want it to be reliable

[NB42]

Mine is standard exhaust size but no mufflers just straight flow exhaust, boosts 10psi and no egt gauge yet but my fuel was wound up slightly and the thing is like a whole new vehicle. For more power would definitely recommend adding egt gauge, intercooler, and larger exhaust and then winding up boost and fuel to suit. I will be doing this to mine in future but already goes really well. These engines are damn near bulletproof when properly maintained

[buried]

took it to beach it goes ok but want to give it something to make it go a bit better found that it was a lil laggy so am thinking a turbo upgrade intercooler and exust will do a good job also want it to be reliable

I never noted any laggyness, however i pick a gear to ensure rpm is over 2k if im heading up a dune/soft sand.

I removed all the coldstart butterflys, EGR system at the same time as it doesnt get that cold in Auckland. I also found the intake pipe that runs across infront of the radiator quite restrictive.

Keep in mind, when I say i dont want to push my engine too hard... its got 450k+ on the clock and still going strong

[Mr Revhead]

yeah that factory downpipe with the flap it is ####### horrible!!
I biffed mine straight away. I had to do some engine work after only 150ks driving when I first got it and I just could not bring myself to put such a restrictive thing back on!

[buried]

yeah that factory downpipe with the flap it is ####### horrible!!
I biffed mine straight away. I had to do some engine work after only 150ks driving when I first got it and I just could not bring myself to put such a restrictive thing back on!

Yup, even more so when it jams 2/3rds closed!
I removed them, shafts and all and threaded in some 10mm bolts. Gives you a whole lot more room around the exhaust once you remove too.

[Mr Revhead]

I got a 2.5 downpipe off a guy from the Isuzu forums. Turns out it's just 2 off the shelf bends welded together with the appropriate flanges welded on.
Would be pretty simple to replicate if you had a sample. Plus you have to fit the 3.1 oil cooler to give more room, that mounts the filter pointing down and back for an easier change too

[buried]

I got a 2.5 downpipe off a guy from the Isuzu forums. Turns out it's just 2 off the shelf bends welded together with the appropriate flanges welded on.
Would be pretty simple to replicate if you had a sample. Plus you have to fit the 3.1 oil cooler to give more room, that mounts the filter pointing down and back for an easier change too

Yeah, the oil filter housing swap is worth it regardless for ease of changing filter. When its off soak the heat exchanger in kero or something coz they're usually pretty blocked!

I've been hunting for a second hand 2.5"-3" dump, no luck yet.

[Mr Revhead]

Doubt you'll find one. Make one!
http://www.autobend.co.nz/Flanges.html
FL4985

http://www.clubisuzu.com/viewtopic.php? ... 5&start=40

Some pics of part of the pipe there (thought I had better ones but I don't)
You can also read about some of the other fun times I've had with the bloody thing!!

Moral of the story: $1000 MU's have lots of issues!!

[buried]

Fatal flaw in that plan, I don't have a welder

I've read most of your thread on the Mu previously, was quite jealous of the price for those rear springs... work perks eh?

[Mr Revhead]

Yeah, but don't be too jealous, I had to send them back as they sagged a lot, turns out they were standard h/d not 2" raised.
So they redid them. I'm still not convinced it's actually 2" raise as I didn't need a b/j flip to correct the alignment
I think it's only about 1" raised so may need some longer shackles to clear the 32s I've got to fit

[buried]

Yeah, but don't be too jealous, I had to send them back as they sagged a lot, turns out they were standard h/d not 2" raised.
So they redid them. I'm still not convinced it's actually 2" raise as I didn't need a b/j flip to correct the alignment
I think it's only about 1" raised so may need some longer shackles to clear the 32s I've got to fit

Yeah saw that, hard to say what standard height is after a few hundred thousand kms.
Did you ever get the Calmini upper arms fitted?

[Mr Revhead]

Not yet as haven't needed them. If I go down that road I'll be doing longer shackles as well, and dropping the front diff. Will make up my mind after I've lifted the body and do it before I cert it all.
There is the added complication that the inner bushes in the calminis were slogged out and I need to see if an engineer can resleeve the arms as new bushed rattle around inside them