Offroad-Express

Hi all.
I've just installed a water temp gauge and just wondering what temps people notice on standard/modified td27t at 100km. What's normal, what's the danger zone etc
Cheers, Rhys.

unmodified, mine(1997 ETI) ran at approx 72 degrees from memory. which suggested the Thermostat was stuck open.
So sourced a new nissan one. Pulled the old one out, and they have a manufacture date on them, and it was the original thermostat!!! The new thermostat runs the truck at 83-84 degrees the whole time, but lifted to 88ish when driving in loose sand.

Cruising at 100 on long trips mine sits around 90 deg on aftermarket temp gauge / just between 1/4 & 1/2 on factory gauge.
I think when you get up past 120 is around about the top of factory gauge. I've never let it get up near there so dunno how much higher you'd want to go.

Since then, i have had the EGR blanked, and the oil breather line(that feeds oil back into the turbo air inlet pipe ) diverted to a catch can, but the water temp figures haven't changed that i can tell.
Intake and exhaust mods haven't been done yet.

Interesting.
First run up the motorway and it got up to between 95-98* peaking at about 100* momentarily, the factory gauge was reading about 1/3-1/2.
Back down to 85-90* at idle/town speeds and 1/4 on factory gauge.
It's an el-cheapo electronic gauge and the red area starts at 100* so was unsure if it was getting a little hot up where it was.
I'd have thought any intake/exhaust mods wouldn't affect coolant temps? (correct me if I'm wrong)

they lower them only a little bit. The motor runs cooler when it can breath easier, which means the water doesn't get quite as hot.
But thermostats, clean radiators , water pumps and airflow are a much bigger influence on temps.

Something to bear in mind is that 100deg pressurised is nowhere near boiling point. If anything that's probably just over half on your factory gauge. Might pay to look into changing your gauge to something that reads a little higher.

100° is a bit on the warmish side if the vehicle isn't under load how el-cheepo is the el-cheepo guage I've never had a lot of confidence in cheep electric gauges and where is the sender installed the head is the most critical place where the intensity of the heat is so that's where you want the sender

Being all iron, They do seem to run quite hot the TD27s. Its astonishing how hot they can get without so much as breaking the head gasket.

Kiwipete blew the top tank of his radiator off, put a new rad in it and kept going.

I've had mine up to 130 with no ill effects.

Very sturdy engine

Sender is in the top hose.
It's just a cheap from super cheap.
Hot afternoon and went for another open road run into the steaming N/W wind and it stayed steady at about 100*.
Might use that as the benchmark and button off if it gets much higher than that.

lax2wlg wrote:Being all iron, They do seem to run quite hot the TD27s. Its astonishing how hot they can get without so much as breaking the head gasket.

Kiwipete blew the top tank of his radiator off, put a new rad in it and kept going.

I've had mine up to 130 with no ill effects.

Very sturdy engine

Nope, never blew the top tank off, just boiled the bugger!

Hi guys. I own a 96 terrano td27. I would like to lift the vehicle up a bit. The vehicle has McPherson strut front suspension and coil rear. Has anybody out there done this. I don't want to go to the point of having to risk my driveline components so maybe 50mm would be ok. Has anyone fitted strut spacers? Any thoughts guys? What can I do and what should I avoid?

Wrong thread bro, you'll have more luck stating a new thread in the nissan section. Cant help you with the 96 year either sorry, only the earlier model. Best of luck

18 psi all the time, no thermostat 3 inch striaght exhaust with snorkel and barrell air filter on a T24 Garrett A/R50 see's 40 to 70 on the highway, 70-80 in around town traffic and near boiling when it's full of mud. oh and twin electric fans not a viscous.

This isn't really relevant to the original question but a lot of late model cars don't switch the cooling fans on until the engine temp is 106-108 degrees and some as high as 112. If you coolant system is pressurising correctly 100 degrees should not be a problem.

Huh, old thread. I was having brake problems at the time and the rear brakes were gripping due to being supplied the wrong brake master cylinder so the engine was working a lot harder than it needed to at 100km.
She's now running between 92-95 open road. Still need to replace coolant as its real old and mostly water now and should really do waterpump while it's empty.