Offroad-Express

So the other day I got sick of the plastic 'Neo' engine cover kicking around the garage and bolted it back onto the engine. Now the check engine light has started flashing. Sometimes as soon as its started and runs a few seconds, sometimes I can get most of the way to work. It doesn't turn off again until the key is turned off. Nothing appears to be wrong drives perfect still, boost is normal. Previously it has done this maybe 2 or 3 times in the 2 years I've owned it, all after sitting idling in traffic (vibrations?) Noticed the #1 glow plug nut was loose so tightened that. There are 2 other plugs next to the glow plug power feed on the manifold, that with the cover on are pushed against the side of the cover, suspect on of these maybe the culprit, anyone know what they're for? So much cr*p on these engines you cant see where anything goes!
Possibly related, likely not, recently the interior lights are playing havoc, light comes on but dim (when doors unlock, key is turned off, etc) but goes out when door opened, turning the light switch on same thing, turning the map lights on causes the main light to flicker and go out then the 'door open' light comes on wtf Also the climate control goes back to 'off' almost every time you turn the key off, instead of staying however it was set beforehand. Dodgy earth somewhere? Under dash I guess? Head unit also frequently resets when starting, although its always done that since I put it in maybe just doesnt like the voltage drop of the glow plugs, and is earthed straight to the dash frame (nissan loom commonly doesnt have an earth in the stereo plug for some reason).

Arg, bloody nissan electrical demons
Any body offer any further insight before I spend days pulling stuff apart?
Can you lamp flash the fault codes on these? I cant seem to find it on google. Being Nissan Consult instead of OBD2 the diagnostic cable is a lot more expensive than an OBD2 one. Although in their infinite wisdom nissan fitted the DDTi terrano/pathfinder and some patrols with an OBD2 connector but it uses a different pinout to OBD2 and the Consult protocol, making the cable even more expensive than a normal Consult one
(injector pump was new when I brought it so better bloody not be that on the way out again haha)

I know what's wrong, pin has fallen out!

They go really well just before they throw a piston

Hahahah yeah I want one of those stickers!
Its done over 270tho without blowing so think it might be one of the better ones. Pretty sure/hopefull its to do with those wires. Pulled at the plugs the other morning and it got home and halfway back to work before it came on again.

Doesn't feel like its running any better than normal, isn't drinking fuel like they would if running over rich and about to burn out, airflow meter due for a clean again tho

first thing is to pull the codes.
not sure which vechile you have but generall its bridge the two outside terminals


count the flashes. there will be long ones and then short ones.

This is where Nissan complicates it by using an obd2 connecter on a non-obd2 system, instead of the normal 14pin consult connecter lol. I've found a pin out which shows where the consult data wires are but anyone's guess if the Check terminal is in the same spot opposite 12v. I suppose I could just get an obd2 extension cable and chop the end off and make a serial consult cable, probably handy to have

Despite information all saying otherwise, I had a look and it is actually a consult plug, so looked up the pinout and got the fault codes to flash. Is there any meaning to the order they appear, newest first or last? Will have to clear them and see which come back later.
I get, in this order;
0703 Pump comms
0403 TPS
0407 Crank position
1003 EGR sensor

In my thinking the first 3 would result in engine not running at all (or not revving in the case of the tps).
All except the tps could be on the plugs I have already suspected, or an earth I havnt seen around the same area. First step clear the codes and see what come back. Also could some be produced by the fact the engines not started?

Almost sounds like a loose pin somewhere that you have knocked a little.. chase those demons mate..

Well found the problem:


EGR valve control wires have hardened and snapped at the plug. Thats gonna be fun to fix

i would check the earths on the engine including the 3 small ones on the inlet manifold.
the egr wiring should only cause the egr error.

Just checked again now, in the burgerfuel carpark haha, after clearing the codes earlier, and only 1003 shows up now so thats good. Not sure where the others came from, maybe from when having battery issues. Will have to try pull the plug apart and repair the wires.
Plan on blocking eventually and getting rid of the ECU turbo control, but obviously egr still needs to be plugged in to stop the ECU throwing a fault

Either go mechanical pump or stop messing with it. From what ive read on the patrol forums the best thing to do is to sandwich a blanking plate between the egr pipe flanges, remove the butteryfly plate from the intake, but leave it all in tact. And operational.
As for more boost, you can shove all the pressure you like in there. But without a MAF amp or chip to trick the ecu into dumping more fuel in your pissin into the wind... then there is still the fact its a renowned zd30 grenade. Just a matter of jiggling the pin the wrong way.

Haha yup wasn't planning on messing with it just blocking it as you say and leaving it all there to stop the soot going into the intake, and changing the turbo to manual controlled for a more linear boost curve without spikes, as per patrol4x4 NADS guide. Makes sense too the boost seems to drop off right when you want it.