another td27 heating issues thread

[oljamesyboy]

have searched the net and here for ages now yet to find answers on here goes

I am having issues with the engine temp on my d21 td27 terrano.

As we all know by now these have issues with heat on hills.

So i did:
full exhaust dump pipe back
EGR removed
bigger 50mm 3core copper radiator new thermostat
egt gauge

Thinking that this would help but hasn't.

Over the long weekend drove from ch-ch to Kaikoura the temp was quite often getting up around the 120 mark on very slight up hills (for those that know the road between Waipara and Hurunui river so hardly a hill at all) so easing off a bit and sitting at 80kmph it ran normal temp (around 90).

it only seems to do it under acceleration eg uphill overtaking

The EGT gauge barely touched 600 on the steep sections.
I am running 12psi and have not touched the fuel at all

It use to run cooler before dump pipe was done and it was running around 10psi
And always runs normal temps around town or even at 80kms

So any suggestions on what could be causing this?

I have read that ruining to lean could cause this so with more boost and the dump pipe could lack of fuel make it heat up more?

It has me stumped
thanks in advance

[Crash bandicoot]

when was the water pump last done.
Was a new radiator cap fitted along with new radiator.
Are the rubber inlet/outlet hoses in good condition...not perished or deteriorated inside, expanded reducing flow?
Are you basing your heating assumptions on the factory temperature gauge.
Correct thermo stat installed?
Anti freeze...was the right ratio added..too much glycol per litre of water.
Does the heater pump out hotter then normal air?
viscous fan working properly...
Does it have A/C..is the A/C radiator choked full of insects ect reducing flow.
How old is the TD27, Rust scale blocking galleries?
Is the radiator suited to the application, Tube and fin/ Bar and Plate, heat saturation point... it might be a 50mm three core radiator but being copper it's heat saturation point might be lower reducing it's ability to transfer heat.

running rich is what creates excess heat. Running lean would mean minimal boost due to the nature of a diesel engine using fuel to govern..(i.e. wont get boost without fuel.)

mine even with a radiator choked with mud winching etc will get warm, but not over heat so Some thing is restricting flow. or causing the water pump to cavitate.

[ChurchurDan]

Over heating at high speed is either low circulation or radiator issues.

[oljamesyboy]

when was the water pump last done.
Was a new radiator cap fitted along with new radiator.
Are the rubber inlet/outlet hoses in good condition...not perished or deteriorated inside, expanded reducing flow?
Are you basing your heating assumptions on the factory temperature gauge.

Anti freeze...was the right ratio added..too much glycol per litre of water.
Does the heater pump out hotter then normal air?

How old is the TD27, Rust scale blocking galleries?

running rich is what creates excess heat. Running lean would mean minimal boost due to the nature of a diesel engine using fuel to govern..(i.e. wont get boost without fuel.)

water pump done about 6 months ago
yea new radiator cap with radiator
has had new top hose bottom one getting replaced when i find one that fits.
anti freeze done 50/50

heater runs very hot when its heating up but runs normal when at normal temps
going to do a full flush out when i replace bottom hose but the coolant that is in there is very clean (changed about 2 weeks ago)

the temp numbers i am getting are from a after market gauge running out of the thermostat housing

[oljamesyboy]

will need to check the aircon rad but looks alright
the new radiator is built for the truck and cooper is meant to transfer heat better than alloy so i am told from the radiator shop?

[Crash bandicoot]

moneys on the wrong thermostat. not wrong in physical shape and size but opening at wrong temp...or dud one from new

when you said " gets very hot first thing then operates normal tells me it isnt opening soon enough.

either that or take it out and drill a few small holes through it so coolant can flow a bit better, allowing the heated coolant to get from the engine block to the thermostat housing to make it react quicker