Offroad-Express

Hello Guys

Hope everyone is doing great, Thank you for all the helps and ideas on my old posts

I am thinking of upgrading my KZN185 to a 120 series PRADO and 2 model of engines on this diesel model

- 1KZ-TE with intercooler
- 1KD-FTV with intercooler

I need some ideas from you guys what is the most reliable as i have good past experience with 1KZ-TE but not the D4D 1KD

I know 1KD is with lot more electronics than 1KZ and more pulling power and economical as per some energy ratings

Please share your knowledge and experience so its gone be helpful for me to select the correct truck

regards
JC

I work for a Toyota dealership so I will tell you 1 simple thing - DON'T GET THE KD!!

Upgrade to the 120 series Prado with the KZ engine.
Or better still, get the V6 Prado. Cheaper to run, maintain, register and no RUC's to worry about. Nicer engine and tons of grunt. Cheaper to buy than the diesel as well.
Forget the early KD trucks. Nothing but trouble!

Thank you for the reply mate

I have had 2 1KZ's without intercool and 1 with intercool, what is the idea about head cracking? is that head cracking issue been fixed on intercooler engines?

regards
JC

- also i am interested on 3 of the Prado's

- 2003 model VX 260,000 on the clock asking 21k
- 2003 model RV just over 200,000 on the clock asking 21k
- 2005 model VX with leather interior asking 23.5k

and all of the above are fitted with 1KZ with intercooler

so please advise me which is the best for the price

Heads cracking can attributed to quite a number of things. But mainly its a maintenance issue in my experience.

IMHO leather is a waste of time. Marks very easy and is cold in winter and sticky in summer. A real pita as well to keep clean and protected.
Fabric much nicer.

The RV is bottom of range so won't have the bells and whistles of the VX ltd.
Those prices seem well up there for the mileage they have.

Thank you for the points mate, what is your idea about the RAV4 Diesel 2008 model 2AD-FTV?

Also 2003 1KZ-TE is it fitted with DPF?

NO! and no. The DPF are only on import KD's, no KZ's had them.

Those Rav's have oil burning issues (we have replaced a heap of blocks and re-ringed so many more), plus they block their EGR systems very badly.

Is there anything you can do to a 1KD to prevent / reduce "problems"? I had heard that they suffer from problems with injectors and that the latest models had helped this by fitting a fuel cooler. The theory was that the fuel was at such high pressure that it was heating up and damaging the injectors.

Only asking out of interest, as I run a 1KZ-TE.

They supposedly suffered from faulty injector seals. The seals failed allowing combustion gasses into the sump where it formed a thick black gunk blocking the oil pickup and starved the engine of oil. Toyota's response was to say that the the valve clearance needed to be checked every 45000km as this required the injector seals to be replaced...

There is supposedly an updated seal that is more durable.

In my point of view its better to stick with the old 1KZ-TE motor as its got that head cracking issue only and their is a workaround

-- --- I have checked 50th Ann PRADO with a 1KZ-TE engine and i have seen the orange light when i turn the ignition and its same light for DPF

So i that mean all of this above 2001 1KZ-te's fitted with the DPF????

regards
JC

All the CR (common rail) diesels have a fuel cooler from factory.

Haven't seen a 1KZ-TE with DPF yet in my time with Toyota.

Seats and seals is an ongoing issue with early KD's. The combustion gases can get past injector seats and the crud blocks the oil pickups. Pays to check the pickup through the sump bung hole when doing oil changes. Recommended to be done every 45k on pre 2012 KD's. Seats were changed after 2012 so no need to do at 45k intervals.
To be honest since 2014 we see very little problems. Most we see are usually caused by user or lack of maintenance. The number we see that have been run on petrol is amazing. Can get very expensive.
Another issue is spill control valves which normally only arises due to poor fuel supply. An auxiliary filter can help if you are using a questionable supply.

For 1KZ apart from the head issue any other issues that need to be taken care of? How about the gear box, if i am doing the day to day work and no towing other than a small trailer once in a blue moon do i need to go for a extra trans cooler?

regards
JC

An aftermarket trans cooler would be a good advantage. Get the factory cooler in the radiator removed/disconnected if you do.
Do a search on here for 1KZ mods and improvements. There's lots of things to give you ideas. If you're only using it as a family wagon there's probably no point going to extremes on it.

I have locked with a 2004 VX done 250k and its for 21k and i think its not a bad deal?????

Just a quick question: if its a VX then it should have the traction control, stability control and hill descend control i have seen this on a Ausi forum and is this true in NZ NEW model

regards
JC

From memory only the RV doesn't have the flash bits. The VX and VX LTD has the down hill decent assistance and all the other bells and whistles. Might be some slight differences from the Aussie specs but will be pretty similar.

mudbugga wrote:An aftermarket trans cooler would be a good advantage. Get the factory cooler in the radiator removed/disconnected if you do.
Do a search on here for 1KZ mods and improvements. There's lots of things to give you ideas. If you're only using it as a family wagon there's probably no point going to extremes on it.

hi guys,

here in Europe we do have a lot of 1 KZ-T(E)s as well as 1KD...
I myself drive a KZJ78 with the 1KZ-TE engine which has better torque in low revs than a standard 1KD. the aerodynamics of a KZJ78 compared to a KDJ95 is like comparing a cupboard to a fighter jet from the guys I know driving KZJ95 and KD95 there is a difference of about 1,5 liters/100km. mine takes another liter...

the issue with cracked heads was a major problem here, too. maintenance is only one thing but the engines are prone to overheating with CH of the first series. For japanese vehicles Toyota has than fitted IC´s like on the KZ185 but also on KZJ90/95s. I would die for a stock intercooler and throttle body to retrofit my truck. hard to get, very few used cars made it to the UK with that set up.

Generally speaking the newer 1KZ engines have improved cylinder heads, better cooling even without IC.

the weakest point about the 1KD as we see here are the pressure control valves (2pcs) which get stuck with residues from fuel frequently. That happens the engine stalls at high and low speeds, will not rev freely etc., one good counter measure is to add two-stroke-oil to the fuel, that has some magic cleaning power and is used in 90/120/150 prado models.
a friend of mine does not leave home with a spare set of the pressure control valves, he is quite advanced now, takes him 15 minutes to change them on the road

if it is for fuel economy then it clearly is the 1KD. other than that I would not change my 1KZ.


I do also have issues with the ATM oil temperature and looked for ways and space to add a cooler. I have a dual battery system, a Webasto heater and AC in my truck, just no space for nothing.

I would never bypass the oil cooler in the water cooler. You guys are not exposed to a lot of freezing as I remember from my visit 25 years ago, but here in Europe no way. remember that the ATM oil helps the engine to higher temps in low ambient temps and I doubt that I could find space for an even bigger cooler anywhere inside or underneath the truck.

cheers
peter

Peter- we bypass the factory coolers because when people tow stuff here, the AT fluid increases the coolant temp to a point where the motor cooks. The eternal cooler helps reduce the risk of the head cracking.
We put the coolers in front of the AC condensors where there's plenty of room and they can get good air flow.

Sorry to bring the old conversation back, after a big mistake 2 months ago i have finally gone to a 2002 PRADO VX 120 (made a mistake 2 months ago as we bought a Hyundai IX35) This PRADO got 285 on the clock and my plan is to use this for another 4-5 years. Need some tips to look after a high km's 1kz-te and the gearbox

samurai wrote:Sorry to bring the old conversation back, after a big mistake 2 months ago i have finally gone to a 2002 PRADO VX 120 (made a mistake 2 months ago as we bought a Hyundai IX35) This PRADO got 285 on the clock and my plan is to use this for another 4-5 years. Need some tips to look after a high km's 1kz-te and the gearbox

is it an auto gear box?

I have fitted an external oil cooler but not as suggested here to isolate it , I put it between the gearbox and inlet to the water cooler, so I bring down the oil temp before entering the main radiator. in cooler countries (like mine) you benefit from the oil running through the heat exchanger to warm up the engine temp. this is probably not an issue for you guys.
since I did this modification I had not a single overheating situation on the AT. before this I had them quite regularly when doing long steep ascends or when playing in the sand, even after exchange of transfluid.