scan tool power

[mudsurfv6]

using a OBD2 scan tool it gets power from the vehicle plug.

but my surf is a 22 pin Toyota plug. I have an adapter to go from that plug to OBD2 scan tool but it won't go.

does anyone know if the 22 pin Toyota diagnosis plug has permanent power the same as a later OBD2 plug?
or how it should work?

I've plugged into our car, 2012 captiva which has OBD2 plug and the scan tool works.

[ChurchurDan]

22 pin plug is not powered and is flash code plus some live data, our scan tool we use on these has an internal battery. You bridge terminals to flash the check light for the system you are working on.
What are you trying to get info out of?

[mudsurfv6]

What are you trying to get info out of?

just wanted to see what showed up to try and work out why it won't start. its not even trying, must be electrical. either the air bags being taken out, supercharger computer or changing the injectors. it went after changing fuel pump so it ain't that.

there is power getting around everywhere that I can figure out that it needs to, with my very limited electrical knowledge.

[ChurchurDan]

Is the engine turning over?

[mudsurfv6]

Is the engine turning over?

no, not even trying. turn the key, you get a small click from under bonnet somewhere and three dash lights come on, a/t oil temp, temp and battery. battery is still holding about 12v.

abs light was on until I unplugged the abs controller then that went off.

the air bag light has never come on even when just air bags, or air bag computer aswell are unplugged.

would different injectors make any difference?

[ChurchurDan]

The injectors shouldn't change anything. I would check to see if you are getting power to the little wire on the starter when the key is turned to start. The start feed enters the engine harness from the connector close to the battery where the loom comes from the engine to the body and will be either black/red or black/white I cant remember which.
The inhibit wiring from the transmission range selector switch goes through the big plug where the engine harness goes through the firewall and plugs into the dash harness. There is also a start relay in the engine bay and bridging the 2 big terminals in this should make it wind over.

[mudsurfv6]

I would check to see if you are getting power to the little wire on the starter when the key is turned to start

i'll try that tonight.

There is also a start relay in the engine bay and bridging the 2 big terminals in this should make it wind over.

do you know where in the engine bay? or what it looks like?

[ChurchurDan]

Im sure it is in the under bonnet relay and fuse box and is labeled start.

[mudsurfv6]

Im sure it is in the under bonnet relay and fuse box and is labeled start.

found it.

bridging the 2 big terminals in this should make it wind over.

there is 4 the same size, 1,2,3 & 6. the picture has 1 & 2 with a box between them, 3 & 6 have a gate between them so looks like they are either joined or not.

[ChurchurDan]

3 and 6 are the contacts of the relay, bridging those should make it wind over. If it doesn't check you have power to either 3 or 6 and then that the power is getting to the starter with it bridged.
The other 2 are the winding, one should be an earth and the other should come live with the key in the start position.

[mudsurfv6]

just joined 3 & 6 and it turned over. could hear fuel pump.

one should be an earth and the other should come live with the key in the start position.

battery starting to get low so on charge for night, will try that in the morning if I have time before work, or after work.

[evolution02]

Not being rude but the diagnostic plug under the bonnet is definitely meant to have power in it, our scantools power up off just that plug
This may help to figure out why its not going. Normally ABS & Airbag lights should come on when components or ecu's are unplugged. Maybe your missing a power feed to the ignition. Have you checked all main fuses sometimes called AM1 & AM2?

P.s Sorry to hear you have a Captiva

[mudsurfv6]

the other should come live with the key in the start position.

yes 1 does.

I would check to see if you are getting power to the little wire on the starter when the key is turned to start.

no power at the plug so will have to follow it back.

the diagnostic plug under the bonnet is definitely meant to have power in it

no power in any pin.

Have you checked all main fuses sometimes called AM1 & AM2?

power to both. fuses look ok.

Normally ABS & Airbag lights should come on when components or ecu's are unplugged.

abs light did with the diffs changed but went off when controller was unplugged. air bag light hasn't come on at all.

Maybe your missing a power feed to the ignition.

maybe a relay in ignition or something. but the starter relay pins get power when key is turned to start, so its recognising it there.

P.s Sorry to hear you have a Captiva

had a v8 adventra before captiva, that was a cool tow car, captiva just ain't the same, don't tow with it much, needed awd though and there isn't many options.

[mudsurfv6]

just thinking, if it turns over when you bridge those 2 pins in the starter relay, and one of the other pins has power when key is turned to start, but there is no power at the small wire on the starter when key is turned to start, could it just be the starter relay not connecting when key is turned to start?

if I bridge those 2 pins to turn it over should there be power going to the small wire on the starter while its turning over? or is that wire just connected for the key?

[Petemcc]

If it turns over when you bridge the two pins then it will be fine between the relay and the starter. If it has 12 volts on either 1 or 2 when you put they key in the start position then either your relay is buggered or the 4th pin (the one left out of 1&2 that doesn't get 12volts on it when key in start) isn't earthed property.

Check resistance from that pin to battery negative. At a guess should be about 1ish ohm. If it's no good it will be really high or max out your meter.

If that's good then try another relay

[skidmark]

Just a thought I can't remember for sure, but the windings don't get a power feed from key and a earth through the inhibitor switch?

Alistair

[mudsurfv6]

Check resistance from that pin to battery negative. At a guess should be about 1ish ohm. If it's no good it will be really high or max out your meter.

couldn't get anything, but was probably doing it wrong.

If that's good then try another relay

tried it, the same.

Just a thought I can't remember for sure, but the windings don't get a power feed from key and a earth through the inhibitor switch?

so what your saying is it might not think its in park?

after swapping transfer case the ignition won't let the key out, as if its not in park. was starting though until I pulled air bags out, fitted supercharger and wired in superchargers computer.
one day will get the transfer wiring done.

[skidmark]

That could potentially be the issue.. did you swap complete trans or just transfer case?

[mudsurfv6]

just transfer case. was driving ok until did latest changes.

[skidmark]

Where did supercharger comp get wired in?

Could always chop and earth wire at start relay,just be cautious that the inhibitor switch is still operating if you want it

[mudsurfv6]

Where did supercharger comp get wired in?

into the ecu wires in front of glove box. done as instructions said and I have checked we got right wires. thought about cutting wires and joining back up as was but not a lot of wire to play with.

just be cautious that the inhibitor switch is still operating if you want it

does it need it? just have to make sure its in P or N before starting aye? how would you bypass it? was thinking about manulising it anyway.

[mudsurfv6]

does it need it? just have to make sure its in P or N before starting aye? how would you bypass it?

just been googling it, will have to try it.

[mudsurfv6]

just checked lvvta.

2.4(9) A low volume vehicle fitted with an automatic transmission must feature
an operative inhibitor switch, to enable engine starting only in neutral and
park positions.

so might have to temporarily try it to see if it will start.

[mudsurfv6]

unplugged long plug off side of trans, 7 wires there so will have to figure out which two pins that need connecting.

kept moving things trying to get it to start.

then looked in front of gear lever and the 'computer, shift lock controller' was really hot, then cooled down.
unplugged one of the two plugs there and the key would turn right off and come out, plug back in and key wouldn't turn right off again.
both plugs 5-6 pins, one plug had one pin 10v no matter what the key was doing, other plug had one pin 12v until you turn key to start then no power.

is the 'computer, shift lock controller' the inhibitor switch?

[skidmark]

The in hibitor switch is the long flat plug on the side of the transmission..by memory there's two pins larger than the rest.thats your start circuit.

[mudsurfv6]

by memory there's two pins larger than the rest.thats your start circuit.

cool thanks, i'll join them tomorrow and see what happens.

just thought I would see if reverse lights work, so put key to 'on' and put into 'r' and no reverse lights. tried it on the car and they do light up.

should they light up on every vehicle when ^^^^^?

[mudsurfv6]

bridged the two larger pins. still no go.

so am leaning towards the supercharger computer. will have to email mark at split second again, see if he knows what power each pin should be doing when key is off or on or start. otherwise will have to cut wires and put back as it was.

[mudsurfv6]

thought I would check other things again before I unwire the supercharger computer.

the small wire onto the starter, when key is turned to start has no power. its supposed to aye? I also checked the wire where it comes out of fuse/relay box and no power there.

but when I bridge the pins 3 & 6 in the starter relay it turns over and the small wire to the starter does have power, so thinking wires to inhibitor switch, or inhibitor switch.

so do I just earth the earth wire from the starter relay that goes to the inhibitor switch? without cutting it?

[mudsurfv6]

Check resistance from that pin to battery negative. At a guess should be about 1ish ohm. If it's no good it will be really high or max out your meter.

just tried again. won't even register on multimeter. key off/on/start, positive connected/disconnected doesn't make any difference.

between negative/body/chassis/engine all show up from 1-2 ohm.

the 4th pin isn't earthed property.

earth it straight to body?

[mudsurfv6]

pushed a wire into pin and put relay back in, fixed wire to earth on body for negative terminal, no different.

so forked if I know.

I would love to know why the airbag light has never come on when airbags and then computer were removed.