80 Series Lockers

[Im a Tumor]

Just picked up a triple locked 80 series.
Rear locker doesnt want to engage.
Truck has done 300 000 k's and has most likely never been used.
Front and center both work fine. has any body had this before? Could it be as simple as a stuck actuator solenoid?

Thanks

[sig]

are you sure its not engaging.my one engages but the light keeps flashing.can you hear the motor trying to engage

[wjw]

Jack up one wheel and check if its actually engaged, you'll need centre locked too.

I wouldn't keep trying, once you know, I would bench test it, as mine had seized and the constant testing I was doing burnt it out

[Im a Tumor]

Have jacked it up and cant hear the actuator working when i flick the switch.
Are they hard to pull out and bench test. i.e. if i put 12v across the solenoid should it fire?
I assume u test these lockers the same as an Auto locker?
tried it with truck in Neutral and transfer in neutral aswell

[Im a Tumor]

Also does anybody know where to find a decent manual for these trucks?
Online is fine but hard copy would be even better

[skid]

The decent manuals are the ones you find at a toyota dealer that are not allowed to leave that toyota site

Try this american site for info ......
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz ... tuator.htm

[wjw]

Have jacked it up and cant hear the actuator working when i flick the switch.
Are they hard to pull out and bench test. i.e. if i put 12v across the solenoid should it fire?
I assume u test these lockers the same as an Auto locker?
tried it with truck in Neutral and transfer in neutral aswell

You want to have one wheel jacked up, centre diff locked, trans in park, when you lock the diff, you shouldnt be able to spin the wheel.

Once you know its not working, start by going through the attached PDF.

Before removing the Differential Lock Actuator, make sure the problem is not an electrical issue like a
malfunctioning toggle switch or locker position switch. Does rotation of the dashboard switch produce voltage
to the actuator motor? The locker position switch on the axle can be tested for continuity with an ohm meter.
If it is not working, cleaning with contact cleaner may restore function. Or it might be just a blown 30A fuse
(labeled “diff”).

edit: Grr wouldnt let me add it as a PDF so I had to Zip it up first

[Im a Tumor]

Awesome thanks for that it looks likes its exactly what i need.

[wjw]

Awesome thanks for that it looks likes its exactly what i need.

No worries, let us know how you got on, replacement motors are pretty rare, so any info and photos if you do disassemble are useful. I ended up getting one from a wrecker in the UK, closest I could find at the time

[Im a Tumor]

Oh really shit i hope it doesnt come to that! Might try and do some testing this weekend see if theres power at the motor.

[drive it ...]

If it comes down to your unit is stuffed, there are "apparently" common actuator motors in a few toyota applications, diff lockers, transfer boxes, from 70's, 80's some surfs, just in different housings. I ended up with a late model 79 series actuator motor put into my 78 prado housing for my prado e.locker.

[Im a Tumor]

mint thats good to know thanks man
So we did some testing in the weekend and from what i can gather theres no power getting to the motor.
We disconnected the plug from the motor and tested it it across the pins. was no chance in voltage etc when the switch was used (both lock and unlock)
Next step is back to the car yard i got it from and he can sort it out

[ChurchurDan]

You wont get any power to the plug with it disconnected. It needs to be plugged in for the controller to get a circuit through the limit switches.

[Im a Tumor]

Came back from the auto sparky last week.
They had to rebuild the solenoid - all working mint now which is nice!