Offroad-Express

I have a really tidy 1996 Automatic Nissan Terrano, 155,000km that I’ve had since 2000. I’ve started to get the dreaded idle surges and light throttle stutters.
Not sure what to do, local diesel injector specialists are talking minimum of recondition of Injector pump, and injectors, and I doubt there will be much change from $2500.
I’m not sure whether I’m willing to spend so much on an old vehicle that will likely have ongoing other issues at this age.

Options that I see:-
1 ) source second hand pump, but if so what is the likelihood of getting another one doing the same problem. I read on another thread that someone purchasing a vehicle found more than half of these vehicles that they tested doing the same thing.

2) fix my pump. Specialists that I’ve been to, say that it won’t work by just replacing the electronic governor. They say that the housing will be stuffed too and this affects the timing. Is this true. I’m pretty sure my is genuine mileage, and the vehicle runs very well apart from idle issues.
Can anyone else comment whether I could replace the top of the injector pump (and whether it can be done in situ). Being told that the pump needs to come off to calibrate it, but I can’t see what I’ve got to lose to just try it first.
Also don’t know where to source parts from at reasonable prices. Spent a bit of time on Ebay etc and have not found hardly any nissan zexel stuff. Anyone give me some good leads to get zexel parts from.

3) get a mechanical pump from Pre 1996. From what I’m understanding if I leave the accelerator TPS or what ever it’s call hooked up, everything will be fine. Does this include dash lights and rev counter. Do you just leave the injector pump plugs unplugged, or do you have to do something to them also?
The other thing is that the fast idle switch will no longer work. Does it need to have some sort of manual device to control idle speed when motor is cold, or air-conditioning is switched on?
What other pit falls is there?

The last issue is that by trying to save a grand here by converting it to mechanical controlled pump, could it mean that I’ve just taken a few grand off the vehicle because it could be more difficult to sell like it. I know I have an issue about purchasing vehicles that have been messed with, but maybe it isn’t the case here?

Thanks for reading so many words, and I appreciate any help people maybe able to offer, especially if you have a good pump for sale, both types, or whether you can point me to a parts supplier that you don’t have to swap your first born for.

answer this: if the truck had a mint injector pump in it, how long would you keep that particular truck?
Unfortunately, everything the diesel dude has told you is correct. Our low quality diesel is slowly wearing way at the inside of the pump housing. You can save 2-300 bucks if the housing is not too worn. You are correct, there is an electronic black box on it, that can cause these issues, or it could be a worn pump, trouble is- you just don't know. So you could spend the money replacing the black box, and hope it runs well again, and keep the T2 two stroke oil in as an additive to try to prolong the pump's life. Or you could recondition the pump, and keep your black box on it in the hope that it is working fine. No real harm if it does prove to be faulty, as you can replace it with a new one if the original is faulty. Just be aware that many diesel surgeons( well they must be, they charge as such) will be reluctant to recon your pump without replacing the electronic box.
If my one was a manual, i would've put in a much cheaper pump from the non electronic TD27 ($700 exchange, for a overhauled unit), and then had an auto electrician get the rev counter working again. But with the auto trans, i thought it might open up a can of worms, so i spent the money, on the basis that it(the pump) would be good for another 200,000km. I had the injectors done at the same time, but at 155km, I would not bother doing yours.
Does a diagnostic check show any fault codes? the rough running could be a faulty crank angle sensor.
Every single owner of '96 onwards R50 terranos and R20 ETi mistrals are living with a ticking expense time bomb. It's a real dilemma, the motor is real reliable, but has a pump that costs over $3000 to replace (inc Labour) and a Electronic TPS that costs $700 plus. On a truck that is worth around 5 grand. I spent the money, yes it hurt, but i do have peace of mind at least. And hey, at least it doesn't cost $5k to recondition, unlike a pajero 3.2 DiD injection pump.
Answer the first question, and it will help you make a decision on what direction to take. If you want to go manual pump, talk to forum member crash bandicoot, he has done it before, and is helpful/knowledgeable.

oh, forgot to add, if you retrofit the older mechanical pump, leaving the TPS hooked up will not sort all your issues, as you will also need to put in a throttle cable from a navara /terrano (D21/WD21) .

You want the injector pump from the earlier d21, td27-t automatic....pump has tps on it.

Thanks for the replies.

It is likely that I will only keep the vehicle for another year or two. Really looking for a shorter term solution that keeps it running / driving nice and something that I will not feel uncomfortable selling to someone else.

Not concerned about fitting a throttle cable.

Is there a image available of this TPS on the D21 pump, so I can see what I have to source. Also the part number / model number of the pump will be appreciated.

Fitting a full mechanical pump is probably the way I will go. So to check if I’m thinking right, the issue is No rev counter, and no fast idle switch, and no idle speed compensation for air-conditioning . Does it also mean that I will have a check light also going on the dash???

Will the exhaust run as clean with a well adjusted mechanical pump? I had a D21 1990 Terrano years ago that ran quite clean, but with the TD27eti it runs totally clean. Not sure if I want to go back to a vehicle with slight visible emissions. This answer could be a decision maker.

i encourage you to use the search function top right of page.....

viewtopic.php?t=43065

Thanks Crash Bandicoot, I had tried to search it, but for some reason I never found the thread that you have just linked. Thanks for pointing it out, cheers

I just thought I would try one last thing before I removed the pump. I put some 2 stroke oil in the tank, about 200 ml in half a tank. Not sure if it is co incidence but near the end of the tank the stutter / surge disappeared almost completely. I’ve done a second full tank, and have noticed no stutters and surges in the whole tank. Time will tell, but I wonder if I should just put it on the market, now it is running perfectly again.
Anyone with a crystal ball out there?

probably hard for you to sell it at the moment...QUOTE "something that I will not feel uncomfortable selling to someone else."
any fault codes?

Yeah, it wouldn't be fair to sell. It is interesting that it had got really difficult to drive around town, and virtually after about 10 km of sticking oil in it, it was a clear cut transformation.

Just thought I would post back. I never had the codes read. It has now been a couple of months or more since I added 2 stroke oil. It isn’t doing it at all now, and I’ve done nothing else, except run a little 2 stroke oil in with the diesel. Could be complete co incidence but if anyone else if having the same problem, it’s pretty easy and cheap to try first before anything else. Heres hoping anyway.