Ln106 build

[corbanfisher]

Hello
I brought a single cab ln106 a mouth or two back just starting to do stuff to it now
Its a non turbo 2.8 done 248000 seems to go allright but wonderimg about putting extractors on it. Anyone got these and are they worth the money
Got a new set of 32in maxxis razrs
2in leafs 2nd hand
And 2in shackles
4in extended breaklines
Also got a dropped draglink and adjustable tourque rod
Snorkel and diffbreathers
It has a rear lsd that i dont think works
Thinking of maybe getting a lokka one for the rear and not sure about the front yet.
Need to sandblast and repaint the chassis as its ex up north and has a bit of surface rust.
Also got a surf coming up for sale withen a few months if anyone wants it.. ikz done 289000 and got a 2in lift and 31s and farmbar and snorkel diffbreathers. Wanting around 7.5k knz130
Cheers any advice would be mint

[BlakeNZ]

sounds like it's going to be very capable.
Can't help you with the extractors, but they are an appealing item on the 2L motor (2.4 litre Diesel) so I assume they will help on the 2.8 motor too. They don't have much grunt, so any gain is noticeable .
With regards to the LSD, it is common for them to wear and then not function as an LSD. You have a number of options. Get a diff shop to give it a going over, to factory specs. Alternatively, have them shim it tightly (say 80 ft/lb up to a max of 120 ft/lb breakaway.) Both of these options will eventually lead to you facing the same situation ie reduced effectiveness.
The lokka/lockrite solution gives you positive traction solution, normally around the $500-$550 mark plus labour to install.
I tend to spend a little bit more with my hilux diffs and install an Eaton true trac ($780-880 plus install)
At that point you are not far off a entry level chinese air locker, which I believe are copies of ARB. ($1000 on trade me currently, plus install, plus a small air compressor).
Eaton E -lockers range from 1500-1800 depending on supplier.
Regardless of which option you take, opt for using a solid pinion spacer, as the factory crush ones contribute to LSD wear, IMHO.

[De-Ranged]

Blake a pinion crush sleave can't cause wear on an LSD pack, the crush sleave locates the pinion gear in relation to the how deep it sits into the diff nugget.... it doesn't apply any force or anything to the LSD clutch pack inside the crown gear carrier..... basicly you've bought into some Mall Crawler BS off Pirate lol there is alot of it out there to catch those that are learning
I also wouldn't bother with pinion spacers and shims, this is going to add about 2-4hrs onto your setup cost of your diff, and in all the yrs of running my custom shop I only seen one diff come into the shop that had failed due to a hit on the pinion flange (collapsed the crush sleave) and in this case it bent the pinion flange end of the pinion as well lol
Now that said I have seen buggered diffs from people who have reused crush sleaves lol something toyota says not to do, now to someone who works on diffs this is easy to spot your pinion nut has a point that is hammered into a keyway in the pinion shaft.... if this nut has multiple damage marks then its a shoe in they reused the crush sleave lol even if they say they didn't as any kit that comes with a crush sleave comes with a new nut.....

Corban if your bored run a search on my name, I've posted up a few hilux solid axle builds on here it might give you some ideas, good luck with your build, if your in HB message me your welcome to come down the work shop sometime and talk you through some options

Cheers Reece

[BlakeNZ]

thanks Reece, good info. I was being lazy/sloppy when I typed that last line, and wrote LSD instead of diff.
My local diff shop (Geartech in Palmy nth) have always suggested the solid pinion spacer when I've had work done on hilux diffs (one shimmed tight for a drag car, two Eaton tru trac centres into a couple of Surf rears).
I'm a bit of a tech dinosaur, so not sure what Pirate is ,sorry. I'm guessing a facebook based forum or similar.
Are you still doing diff shaves etc? or does this quote from 2015 still apply?
"Sorry Blake I thought I'd PM'd you back, I'm no longer doing any mod work commercially, lol I don't even get enough time in the shed to do much for myself... I'm happy to help with advice but I just don't have the time "

[De-Ranged]

lol I thought I recognized your name.... thats an open invite to you by the way come have a beer or bourbon
Your diff builder did right for you, dragging on a toyota 8" lol you want everything right for that !
But to give you an idea my current transaxle build when I do the front diff lock install I'll put a new crush sleave..... the rear, I may shim that as the diff and drive shaft are below the rear links because of the weird link setup I'm trialing..... but only if I kill the one thats there, and that will be a full new build (gears, bearings ARB carrier etc)

Sorry, lol I don't get enough time to work on my stuff let alone others, but if your keen.... one night when I'm home, your welcome to come up and I'll talk you through the process so you can do your own

[De-Ranged]

Oh and heres Pirate
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/

Go into the Toyota truck and 4 runner section and top of it is the bible just remember its more from an American rock crawling view but still the best tech you will find anywhere

[Mehrts]

My understanding of the benefit for replacing the crush-tube with a solid space & shims is that when it comes time to replace the pinion seal, you don't have to worry about screwing up the pinion bearing preload which is done by the action of torquing up the pinion flange nut.

If there's an (already) crushed tube in there, then by the time you're trying to correctly torque up the pinion nut, you've essentially overcooked the bearing preload. I know a lot of people say it's fine to re-use the pinion nut & just go back to the same point where the staking (hammering) was done to the nut, but I'm not happy with that. Maybe it's fine on a something which doesn't do many K's, but I wouldn't want to do it on a daily driver.

Sure it takes extra time to set up the correct shims initially, but once it's done, then seal replacements are much easier for the future & there's the peace of mind that the pinion bearing preload has been correctly set.

My 2 cents anyway

[corbanfisher]

Done rear lift and repainted chassis
Got arb front bar just need to cut and move up 50mm
Also got a winch. Do I need to rotate the winch lever 90°? How have others done the bullbar just cut and reeled and plate the join?
Also keen on a rear lokka if anyone has a 2nd hand one.
Ended up doing a body lift as well so might have to get some 33s.