Factory rear "Locking Diff" in LJ71 Landcruiser

Highway · Post by **Highway** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:05 pm

Hi all, wondering if someone can help me here.

I've just purchased a '91 SWB LJ71 for a bit more serious off roading than the family LWB Pajero allows me.

My cruiser has a G144 rear diff, at least that's what the build plate says and my research indicates the G = 8" ring gear, 14 = 4.875 ring/pinion gear ratio, and the last 4 = 4 spiders and Locking Diff.

My question is, and please excuse me if it's been asked many times before (I did search all 10 pages of the Toyota section), how do I lock the "Locking Diff"? There are no buttons to push. Perhaps it locks automatically in 4L, but would like this confirming.

Cheers for any help.

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:35 pm

I think youll have a LSD, if you have a locking diff , there will be a switch just to the left of the steering wheel.
The switchs on the dash are for the locking hubs and the 4 wheel drive in high range.

IcedJohnno · Post by **IcedJohnno** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:02 pm

If your truck has the electric locker like some of the KZJ-71's and 78's there will be a rotating switch near your left knee when seated behind the wheel. It is between the heater controls and the steering column.

The switch lies horizontal when disengaged and has Difflock written on the knob and off-push-on written on the switch housing. Rotation of it 90 degrees
gets a red light flashing in your instrument cluster which should stay on permanantly when the difflock engages. My elocker engages properly but the contacts are dirty and the light stays flashing.

cheers John

Highway · Post by **Highway** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 4:57 pm

Thanks for your responses. Definitely no switch to lock it.

I've found conflicting information about what I thought originally.

The axle code G144... the 4 on the end means open diff and locker, but the locker appears to have been optional extra.

At least now I know why I got stuck coming out of a "not so difficult" water crossing on the weekend. :oops:

Baldrick · Post by **Baldrick** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:33 pm

Highway wrote: At least now I know why I got stuck coming out of a "not so difficult" water crossing on the weekend.

Just to possibly eliminate another question - where was it you got stuck??

rowinz · Post by **rowinz** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:36 pm

Hey John,
what axle code is on your engine bay plate?
I have a KZJ78 with G144 axle too - interweb tells me code should relate to locker, but nah..., not LSD either as I've checked for that too.

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 9:05 am

Just thinking about this, do you have electric hubs?
Its quite common for a Prado that has done more than 100,000kms to have one of the hubs not engauge sometimes

Highway · Post by **Highway** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 2:15 pm

oldblue wrote:Just thinking about this, do you have electric hubs?
Its quite common for a Prado that has done more than 100,000kms to have one of the hubs not engauge sometimes

Yes those damn electric hubs. They are on the list for replacement with manual ones.

What's the easiest way to tell if they're working or not?... other than getting myself stuck.

Highway · Post by **Highway** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 2:16 pm

Baldrick wrote:
Highway wrote: At least now I know why I got stuck coming out of a "not so difficult" water crossing on the weekend.

Just to possibly eliminate another question - where was it you got stuck??

To avoid further embarassment I'd rather not say :oops:

. But will say I was grateful to the Safari owner for a tow.

IcedJohnno · Post by **IcedJohnno** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 2:39 pm

[quote="Highway"][
Yes those damn electric hubs. They are on the list for replacement with manual ones.

Why Damn electric hubs? They are stronger than any after market version and some like me find the ease of use great.
I know eventually I shall catch the wires on a ball of ice thrown up from my chains or a stick in some mud or something but I find them great. I have bent the wire mounts further inwards to minimise this happening
My plan is to get OldBlue to do both a manual and electric conversion on them at some point. This way I can still push the button but if the wires break or the brushes fail I can still wind them in on the allen key.

Test by engaging hubs and putting in 4wd. Put in gear but leave the motor off! Next jack up one front wheel in turn and try to revolve it. If the hubs are working the wheels wont be able to revolve cos the diff wont work cos the other wheel is still on the ground and the driveshaft can't rotate cos the transmission is engaged.

cheers John

Baldrick · Post by **Baldrick** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:31 pm

Highway wrote: To avoid further embarassment I'd rather not say . But will say I was grateful to the Safari owner for a tow.

No worries - the "culprit" for a similar event has owned up elsewhere. Pleased you got out ok.

Highway · Post by **Highway** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:53 pm

IcedJohnno wrote:
Why Damn electric hubs? They are stronger than any after market version and some like me find the ease of use great.

I wasn't wanting to offend anyone by calling them "damn electric hubs". Everything I've read about them say's... and I don't remeber the quote verbatim but, "not if, but when they fail". I also acknowledge that they're regarded as stronger that any aftermarkets.

Being a wheelchair user I certainly find the convienence of not having to get out of the drivers seat unbeatable. But reliablility is also a factor.

I know eventually I shall catch the wires on a ball of ice thrown up from my chains or a stick in some mud or something but I find them great. I have bent the wire mounts further inwards to minimise this happening
My plan is to get OldBlue to do both a manual and electric conversion on them at some point. This way I can still push the button but if the wires break or the brushes fail I can still wind them in on the allen key.

Electric and manual conversion? Now that sounds like a great idea.

Test by engaging hubs and putting in 4wd. Put in gear but leave the motor off! Next jack up one front wheel in turn and try to revolve it. If the hubs are working the wheels wont be able to revolve cos the diff wont work cos the other wheel is still on the ground and the driveshaft can't rotate cos the transmission is engaged.

Will this work with an auto tranny?

Cheers for your help.

Highway · Post by **Highway** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:17 pm

IcedJohnno wrote:Test by engaging hubs and putting in 4wd. Put in gear but leave the motor off! Next jack up one front wheel in turn and try to revolve it. If the hubs are working the wheels wont be able to revolve cos the diff wont work cos the other wheel is still on the ground and the driveshaft can't rotate cos the transmission is engaged.cheers John

Thanks for that John.

I've given that a try, having an auto I tried both Park and Drive... front wheels spun nice and freely... unfortunantly...so I will assume the hubs aren't engaging as they should.

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:34 pm

Just make sure the drive shaft is locked (not able to turn) and one wheel is on the ground, if the opposite side wheel is able to turn then one of the hubs is not working.

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:01 pm

Also you must have had our motor running as the 4WD system needs vacumn to engauge or lock.