Broken CV (4th One)

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mytronic
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Broken CV (4th One)

Post by mytronic »

Hi all
I have broken yet another CV, RH Outer
Has anyone heard of aftermarket ststronger ones?

How do I replace it?
I'm not a mechanic but at $500 a pop I think it is time to learn

Cheers Mike
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red-devil
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Post by red-devil »

this may sound silly, but how far have you wound up your torsion bars.

if you cvs have any move the about 30 deg down for straight out of the front diff then they will start to break.

jono
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Hi Jono

Not too sure, purchased from Wellington not too long ago. The owner said that he had not lifted it, but I suspect that it is as the bump stops have been tampered with.

Have got the wheel off and all the nuts holding the ball joints off, but be buggered if I can see how to get the cross to pull away from the upper and lower ball joint.

Cheers Mike
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tallsam66
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Post by tallsam66 »

What vehicle do you drive???....im sure someone will be able to help you here..but need to know what you drive.
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Opps Sorry :shock:

1993 JTop

Cheers Mike
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Hi Jono

Just measured the angle and we are in excess of 30 degrees
Will rectify when repaired

Cheers Mike
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mrplane
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Post by mrplane »

i have two 2nd hand challenger cv,s ,if you give me dimensions and number of splines, we could do a deal.Do you still need to know how to get them off.
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Hi there

I am still doing battle
Have the old CV out now but the old knuckle has remained behind and is stuck on the spline. This will teach me to continue on 4WD'ing regardless of damage. Had quite a bit of fun in 2WD with rear locker engaged. Had the old V6 humming at full tit !!
Will count the splines when fully apart. I have smashed metal bits and ball bearings everywhere :P

This knuckle is giving me grief
Got a mate coming over tonight with a larger hammer :twisted:

Will let you know on the 2nd hand parts once I have it all to pieces if that is OK

Cheers Mike
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WACKO
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Post by WACKO »

pm sent.
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red-devil
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Post by red-devil »

sorry for delay

you say the bump stop have been cut, mmmm how far is the bottom arm from the stops,

it sounds like the torsion bars are wound up a little too much to me, but hats only my 2 cents


wot tires you running


i have 33 with the bars wound up a little my axles are about 15 degs down
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matwelli
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Post by matwelli »

Hi, 30 deg is alot, I am running standard lift (about 10 deg) and fit the 33's no problem at all.

If you want to run it a close to 30 deg, install a set of manual hubs so you limit the wear on the cv's to when you are off road, and not day to day driving
Cheers,

Mathew - 021 441 043
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Sorry guys, have been away

Update to the problem

Found my mechanic has been using non waterproof grease in the CV's and did not test the last CV (Which was ssecond hand , I know stupid). He also used a stuffed boot thus the mud and water got in. I suspect that the brand new CV as kindly supplied by a forum member will work just fine. I have never broken the drivers side yet.

As for the bump stops they have been halved and the torsion bars are standard as far as we can tell. But we are bordering 30 degrees. Seem to break things when at full lock, not too sure why at this stage. As posted a little while back, the left side has bent the idler arm twice also. Something is wrong. But what ?

Tyres ... gone to smaller ones since last time I broke/bent the idler arm, now running 31x11.5x16 mudzilla's. GREAT tyre, wears a little fast though.

Just as a foot note, we noticed that the bushes that hold the axil/diff to the chassis have massive cracks in them. Can this cause the problem? They have not broken off yet ! What are they called, where do I get them? Local Mits dealer wanted $800 for 1 CV so I DOD not even want to go there !

So what else to check? Any further thoughts guys and gal's !!

Cheers Mike
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WACKO
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Post by WACKO »

after talking to a few people i decided that my idler arm problem came down to my tyres and rims. the size of the tyre combined with the offset of the rim is just puting alot of strain on it, and bending it. but unless you go to 16" rims you cant fit anything other than crusier offset onto j tops, as far as i know. the calipers hit the rim.

as for cvs, on full lock your cvs have side to side movement and up and down so its twice as much stress on it. that is why i would have thought they seem to be braking on lock.
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Hi Sam

Yes indeed that was my original problem for the idler arm
I have since moved to 16 Toyota offset with no further issues other than my CV's

Cheers Mike
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WACKO
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Post by WACKO »

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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Hi

Interesting reading, I am intrigued now. If I manage to bend yet another one I will get it dismantled and check to see if it is the bush.

Great spotting by the way :!:
I have done many a search and found nothing.

An update on the Drivers side CV issue now....

Not the CV or Wheel Bearing as told, but in-fact the bush where the inner CV mates to the Diff has collapsed. None in the country so I instructed them to manufacture one !!

Cool ay :!:

Cheers Mike
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Post by NJV6 »

Good way to tell what sort of condition these bushes are in is to put a bar underneath the outer cv where it goes into the hub (green part - on mine)and see if there is any up and down movement. They should be pretty firm and no movement.

NJ
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods ;)
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mytronic
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Post by mytronic »

Hi NJ

Yep LOTS and LOTS of movement :P
Thanks for the tip. But mine are so far gone that 1 finger was enough to move it. Haha

Cheers Mike
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WACKO
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Post by WACKO »

theres a bush there? have to check mine this weekend... not that it will make much of a diferance, all the other bushs are stuffed!
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