Offroad-Express

Just found this on TM. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =101162508

Will this just bolt straight into my 3.5l 1994 Pajero after replacing the bearing of cause. Or is there more to it than that???? other than fitting the compressor and switch.

$600 to replace the bearing seems steep, it ain't gonna cost that much just to replace the bearing???

Cheers guys..

I dunno if it would fit your truck or not but at $250-350 its worth buying even if it's only added to the spare parts collection

Ask Wacko or JTop.....they are the Pajero experts

I think the housing needs changing aswell??

Short answer, no.

This will be a 10 bolt diff and yours a 12. Different diff ratio, crownwheel size, spline number and size of axle as well.

To use this diff lock for anyone and to use the factory switch will also require the ECU for it - not shown in the photo. It can be run without the factory switch thou and straight power to the pump.

To put it in a non diff locked vehicle will also need one axle unless you want to cut one shorter which has been done.

As Tu's said you could get another housing for nix and swap the whole lot over then have the weaker smaller diff then swap the front diff over to get the correct ratio......

but I'm no expert

Bugger, thought that would be the answer. Thanks anyway guys

as said... not right for you... but ill watch it now.. ill keep it as spear...

If anyone wants to have a look at it or needs anymore photos pm me as I am the seller.

Had it at 4wd accessories and Rick told me it would be $600 to fix

argh... the diff from the waimac...what happened to the old pajero?

Insurance company took it then someone off here brought it and wrecked it

Back onto the old locka topic.
Seen a couple of factory diff lockers full axle from brake disc to brake disc, its out of a 2.5 diesel. Now my ratio's are 4.6 the locker is either 4.8 or a 5.2 , I know I need the front diff as well but will this all just bolt straight in??

Reason being, hopefully when I can afford it I will be going from 33" to 35"s so is it better going to the 4.8 or 5.2 ratio?? for 35"'s

A bit of topic as well, but one of the bearings on the timing belt pulleys sounds like its shitting itself. I'm no mechanic but do most things myself, Im not confident on doing this job as it looks and sounds like a pig to do. So does anyone know a real good mechanic in christchurch area who knows what there doing and aint gonna rip me off.

Cheers gang.

Daz wrote:Back onto the old locka topic.
Seen a couple of factory diff lockers full axle from brake disc to brake disc, its out of a 2.5 diesel. Now my ratio's are 4.6 the locker is either 4.8 or a 5.2 , I know I need the front diff as well but will this all just bolt straight in??

HI Daz. You started off with the same as me - the 4.6. I have replaced mine with 4.9. When Mitzi came out with the 3.5V6 and 2.8Tdi they put a heavier 9.5 inch rear diff with stronger transfer and rear diff. These models have either 4.6 or 4.9.

Now the older ones 3.0V6, 2.5Tdi, came with mailnly 4.875 and 5.285. The axles are the weakest link with these. Having said this, everything will bolt in. The front is a shit of a job (take off crossmember, all ball joints, steering etc) but it is do able in a day, really need two people or a suitable jack when replacing the front diff. The 5.29 is only available in 7.25 in front diff which is smaller than 'ours' which is 8 inch, however i've not heard of them breaking

Daz wrote:Reason being, hopefully when I can afford it I will be going from 33" to 35"s so is it better going to the 4.8 or 5.2 ratio?? for 35"'s .

35's will require a good chop. I have tried centipedes on mine. I'd say, stick with 4.6's, get an ARB unit for it when it becomes available, and get th low range transfer rockhopper gears ($AUS1250).
I found a locker for the larger rear diff (4.9 - thats why I changed ratio's) and then broke it . They are rare but until ARB come out with their's in a few months that it your only option. Possibly the only time you will need low ratio gears is for downhill and maybe winching (is yours an auto?) remeber the 3.5's have heaps of grunt to turn 35's.

A bit of topic as well, but one of the bearings on the timing belt pulleys sounds like its shitting itself. I'm no mechanic but do most things myself, Im not confident on doing this job as it looks and sounds like a pig to do.

How many k's? I have just been into the front of mine and yes it is quite a job but it can be done and don't be afraid to give us a holler. There is 1 tensioner, 1 pulley and the water pump behind the cover. Sorry can't help with the good help in chch.

Regards, NJ

Thats a great reply NVJ6, its done 116k, yep its an auto.

It all depends on how much a garage want to charge me, if its gonna be mega money I might attempt it myself, will replace the water pump and timing bely as well.

Didnt think 35" would be a problem, gonna do a 50mm lift on top of the factory lift. Running 33" now with no probs, but still got my sway bars on(next job on the ever extending list).

Cheers for help m8.

I know this is off the topic but to do the timing belt will cost you. The thing is, it is not to bad but you need 5 hands or little holder thingies when getting 4 cams and 1 crank to line up. And the hydraulic tensioner - they can be used again but i've forgotton how much movement is acceptable. There is a proper tool to tighten the offset tensioner, for mine becasue it took a few goes to get right (randon noises) I did all the remaval and just got help for the tensioning part.

Pull radiator out, shroud, fan, move power steering pump, revome a/c pump (come in from the side above passenger wheel), & bracket, remove alternator, front pully (mine was seized on), take off big frame thingie that runs up the front of the motor, then timing covers (3) then loosen timing belt. Put socket on end of each of the cam gears to let them down gently. then off comes the water pump, you need to remove the whole thing to replace the actual pump - there is one screw that holds it from the inside. Be careful with the o ring between the V at the back of the water pump. It'd rip your pyjamas if that leaked after it was all back together. Then put it all back together

I would attempt myself if doing it again. You won't get any change from prob $1500....

It depends what 35's you wish to fit as well. Most 33's are not 33 inch, the 35's I tried were centipedes which measure over an inch bigger than a 35 mudzilla. There is not a lot of room to chop in the guards of Pajeros.

Remove your sway bar's - you'll be impressed. Be wary on the road without the front one thou - I run it on most of the time.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... pic&t=2159

Holy crap $1500 wife's taking it to a place tomorrow to a guy who's done one of these the other week. See what he says first.

Found this write up http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat. ... o=&fpart=1

Im going to see a guy this weekend with a swb paj, he has got some sway bar disconnects on the front. He said I could take some measurements and copy them

Daz wrote:
Found this write up http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat. ... o=&fpart=1

Wow, cool thread - so many memories