Long time reader, first time poster.
Ive got a solid front surf that has developed nasty rubbing in the front guards.
It has had the springs re-set and is running 33's.
I played with a 12oz hammer when it first started happening but its coming back.
I think the springs must have been cold set (previous owner) and are sagging.
I know, search the forums, and trust me I have.
Im just not too sure what the easiest fix is.
I dont want to run smaller tyres, been there, like the clearance.
What would be nice is if i could adjust the castor forward 2 inches without re-drilling the springs, is there another option?
re-drill the diff mounts? (Longevity?Im pretty rough on it)
Any big driveline problems to look out for?
I emailed the people at 4wdbits about wedges that I though would do the trick but was told thier 'U-Bolts' are what i need.
Ive still got the standard spring stack, maybe I missed the point?
Ive got Ironman shocks, longer apparently. So would some form of lifting blocks be the go? (between diff and springs?)
Whats the go re: longer shackles?
Even if someone could direct me a topic I missed.
Thanks in advance
Tim.
Some help please.
You can make up a real good front spring pack using main springs from the rear. Moves axle 50mm forward. You also have to alter the tie rod length and the top mounted axle locating rod.
It was a long time ago that I made up the first one of these, but there are a lot of guys swear by them. You can get awesome travel out of this set up, and the ride is lightly better.
I think Hosehustler still runs this set up in the fornt of his surf, with the exception being that he has now gone to cossover steering.
Failing that, you may be able to move the axle 25mm or so forward by redrilling the spring perch's on the axle housing.
Hope that helps.
It was a long time ago that I made up the first one of these, but there are a lot of guys swear by them. You can get awesome travel out of this set up, and the ride is lightly better.
I think Hosehustler still runs this set up in the fornt of his surf, with the exception being that he has now gone to cossover steering.
Failing that, you may be able to move the axle 25mm or so forward by redrilling the spring perch's on the axle housing.
Hope that helps.
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
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Steve_t647
- Hard Yaka
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OK you can redrill your spring perch to move the diff forward (spring steel is a pain to drill!) or you can get a relocation plate, it picks up your current perch location point on the spring(hole in plate) and moves it forward 25mm (stud to locate diff).
not sure of legalities.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.php? ... view&id=51
You also need to add a new front driveshaft to the list Rockhound gave as there is not enough length in the standard one at full droop with the diff moved forward.
not sure of legalities.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.php? ... view&id=51
You also need to add a new front driveshaft to the list Rockhound gave as there is not enough length in the standard one at full droop with the diff moved forward.
rokhound wrote:You can make up a real good front spring pack using main springs from the rear. Moves axle 50mm forward. .......the ride is lightly better.
Sounds very interesting, when you say better, do you mean softer without sitting lower? Some better articulation would be nice.
Ill do the rounds and poss. get in touch with hosehussler.
Chairs. Tim.
Steve_t647 wrote:OK you can redrill your spring perch to move the diff forward (spring steel is a pain to drill!)
I heard that, im not too keen on the idea, ive heard the springs have a tendency to break once re-drilled.
Steve_t647 wrote:or you can get a relocation plate, it picks up your current perch location point on the spring(hole in plate) and moves it forward 25mm (stud to locate diff).
not sure of legalities.
I already have the trucked certed for a 3L and bigger steel wheels, i try and keep it legit. Ill talk to the cert guy.
Steve_t647 wrote:You also need to add a new front driveshaft to the list Rockhound gave as there is not enough length in the standard one at full droop with the diff moved forward.
Would that be the case for just 25mm?
Also I know noone else can see it, but, typically has 25mm been enough to shop rubbing with 33's?
Chairs
Tim
I never replaced the driveshaft when I did it, and I was running on 36" swampers then. Did have shaft pop out once though (but pretty easy to slip back in with help) . Others have used a 25mm spacer block between pinnion and driveshaft.
The spring perch is not the spring, it is the bit the spring locates on, on the axle housing.
The spring perch is not the spring, it is the bit the spring locates on, on the axle housing.
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
id say re drilling the spring perch is eaisest ( thats the flat bit on the axle house that the springs sit on) its not spring steel so shouldnt be to bad to drill. or you could get the axle relocation plates as well. you could try lift blocks but if you go to high with the lift then you run into issues with the steering unless you have cross over steering.
i have to do this soon as i have also got 33's but there is only just a bit of rubbing at full lock or under full compression. i will do the drilling of the perch first and see how that goes.
i have to do this soon as i have also got 33's but there is only just a bit of rubbing at full lock or under full compression. i will do the drilling of the perch first and see how that goes.
