"Jafa's Jalopy"...3RZ-FE and on 40's:)

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Wed Dec 15, 2004 6:43 pm

OMG....impulse buys...dont ya luv em! :lol:

Just bought a 5m-geu supra with 5sp w58 box...complete car for $700...
I guess its anotha project for the shed :shock:

...like I havn't got enuff to do already

.
1 question tho for all you expert supra hilux boys...Do i need a body lift ?
2.8 is going into a '89 LN65 2L hilux, solid front axle not IFS.

SupraSurf · Post by **SupraSurf** » Fri Dec 17, 2004 12:22 pm

You don't need a body lift for a solid axle conversion.

have a read : http://www.4wd.net.nz/suprasurf

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 4:24 pm

soooooooooo???? Its been 4 or 5 months...

Steve

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:00 pm

Well Steve, have I got a storey for you..........
Not only is the supra going in, but a whole swag of other changes too. With next year being the inaugural national winch challenge series kicking off, I have gone mad and am turning my perfectly good Hilux into a winch challenge machine :shock:

.
The list includes:
36"x 12.5 Simexes with Secondair beadlocks
Rangy coils to give 100mm suspension lift
3 link rear with /\ shock setup
probably radius arms and panhard in the front
Rancho's all round
move front axle 50mm forward
50mm body lift
ARB front locker
Detroit EZ locker in the back
5.29 diff gears
CV'd driveshafts
full roll cage
mid mounted Mile Marker 12000lb Hydraulic winch
cross over steering
full floating rear axle with hilux front discs and commodore rear calipers
transfer case flange handbrake
IFS surf vented discs and calipers
50mm transfer case/g'box and engine lift
low profile t'case x member
shaved and braced diff housings
Aircon pump compressor for onboard air
move fuel tank
wider track
race seats and belts
Longfield cromo 32 spline c/v's and axles

so far in my hot little hands I have the air locker, longfields,diff gears,winch,dyneema winch rope,seats, belts,all the bits for 4w disc conversion.
The first event for the new wagon is the Palmy winch challenge at the end of Sept, so Ii have only six months to get it all done :lol:

Hence the 6hrs I am spending on it after work every nite :cry:

I am designing 90% of the stuff on cad software(my day job) so hopefully that will take all the guess work out and things should go a bit smoother.
I have posted a few pic's in my album, but they are a little old. I'll try and keep a regular flow of pics comin as progress is made

lilpigzuk · Post by **lilpigzuk** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:34 pm

Nice, another Build up thread

. All we ask is for heaps of piccies :mrgreen:

I need all the motivation for my next one..............

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:29 am

sounds like it will be a bit of a machine,you have a bit of work on your hands mate,, what sort of winch rope you get and how much did it cost,,? im looking to replace the wire rope on my PTO winch and see that most of the chalenges are stipulating the plazma rope which is a million dollars a meter....

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:15 am

Hi Wopass,
yer its a bit of a mission, but thats the only way to get shit done!, just go hard out till its finished!. The winch rope I have is called Dynex Dux 75. Dia 8mm coverbraided to approx 11mm with a breaking strength of 16 tons, was about $360 for 30.5 metres :shock:

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:28 pm

geez, I just wanted to know how the Supra conv. was going... lmao...

Awesome to hear, nice to see such a comprehensive list too...

I'm still tossing up if I'm gonna bother machining up my own crossovers, but will probably do one set just for the experience... if they aren't too much of a pain in the arse I'll make a couple or three more - I've seen em done with a separate bolt-on king-pin bearing locator, which I don't like at all... just seems unneccessarily unsafe - so I'm looking to machine them in one piece from billet steel.

Anyway, keep the piccies coming - I'll try to do the same... my MU goes into the shed this weekend for a little treatment

Steve

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:36 pm

Oh, just a note - if you want to get the truck cert'd then don't use IFS calipers and rotors. The brake pads run off the edge of the rotors as the Hilux beam axle rotor is a bigger diameter.

Run 40-series vented rotors (same as late-model hilux vented rotors ) - model from DBA is DBA151 from memory, then use late model KZN130 or late model (94, 95-ish) Hilux brake calipers which have the bigger 4-pots as opposed to the LN61 calipers (same as the 60-series cruiser) have 2 big pots and two small ones.

Get all that?

The DBA151 rotors fit perfectly in place of the standard solid ones, and the IFS or the 130-series calipers work perfectly with them.

The ONLY disadvantage is that you don't get the wheel-spacing, but since you have to make a spacer up anyway, you may as well do it properly

Steve

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:10 pm

Yer I already have the rotors (DBA 151's) or actually Les Hunter Automotive equivilants, and the calipers are from a KZN130 (Totally Toyotas in New Plymouth $60 each), but thanks for the pointer :lol:

. Untold information on the aussie and US sites about doin all this aye!. Those rotors are brand new and only $60 :mrgreen:

. The wanker wrecker up here wanted $80 each for 2nd hand cruiser ones :twisted:

. As for spacers, well ya not allowed wheel spacers according to teh rules, so i am going to machine up new steel hubs with the wheel flange further out, glad i have unlimited access to CNC machine tools :lol:

The cross over arms, definately billet, yer dunno about that bolt on king pin locator, that sounds dodgy to me, least separate parts the better i reakon. My arms will be just flat rather than Hi steer style as i will have no leaves to go over. That reminds me, anyone got a good source of cheap 80 series ball joints :?:

jobs done today....
1 - Cab went away to get the cage put in (Octane Automotive in Palmy, builds race and rally cars)
2 - ordered 15"x 10" rims with -44 offset and 95(i think) backspace

jobs for tomorrow....
Go to thje V8's in Pukie YAHOOOOO :cheers:
(farkin never get it finished if I keep going away every weekend :oops:

)

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:17 pm

well, you are allowed spacers, as long as they are proper bolt-on ones and made properly... but they can't be more than 27mm thick and they have to be certified.

Tell me more about the rotors - they are normally $100 to $110ish each new... wouldn't buy them second hand... too dodgy...

Steve

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:28 pm

Nah the rules for the winch challenge series will be based on the Denny's rules which state that wheel spacers are not allowed. I know you can run them on the road and be legal, but for the winch series they are banned.
I'll fire off the details regarding those rotors to your website e-mail tomorrow.
All the info is on my work pc.

DJ · Post by DJ » Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:18 pm

then use late model KZN130 or late model (94, 95-ish) Hilux brake calipers which have the bigger 4-pots as opposed to the LN61 calipers

hi does this mean that I can replace my LN61 stock brakes , with later model caliphers on to early discs mounts for better braking ???
cheers

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Thu Apr 14, 2005 7:50 am

Yep, with DBA 151 rotors, which are also Landcruiser rotors with Dia 15mm stud holes, not 10.5mm. $56 + gst and postage from Les Hunter Automotive in ChCh http://www.leshunterauto.com

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 9:53 am

finally some progress pics for ya'all.
Cage built by Octane Automotive in Palmy.
Main hoop is 1.75" 4340(Chromoly) rest is 1.5"

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 9:57 am

All the new bits I made for the full floating rear axle. Hilux front discs with a few slots added, commodore rear calipers.Grey diff head is the rear one with a Detroit EZ locker from Mike at 4wd.net.nz (Suprasurf)in a 4pin LSD carrier.
Black diff is the front with ARB airlocker installed. Ratio's have been changed to 5.29, imported some R&P's from the states from Randy's ring and Pinion.

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:00 am

Longfield 30 spline chromo axles and birfs courtesy of Suprasurf again.

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:04 am

Rear diff housing slightly modded :lol:

Spindles welded into ends for full floating hubs, widened to 1600mm from wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face. Tyres will stick out from stock guards by 140mm each side! Have some big flares to help with this tho.

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:07 am

Relocated filler hole. Due to increased pinion angle the old filler donsn't allow enough oil in to lube the front pinion bearing.

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:08 am

Got rid of the drain bung and strengthened the botton with some 3mm plate

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:10 am

Top 4 link mounts to take my own version of a "bollock" or "Johnny joint"

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:28 am

Full floater spindle

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:30 am

Chassis drawn on Solidworks showing triangulated 4 link rear. Engine and box raised 75mm

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:33 am

Rear axle assembly showing full floater, dunnydore calipers, 'lux discs, coil perches as far out as possible will end up under the rails.

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:35 am

another view

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:36 am

a bit o flex :lol:

toyking · Post by **toyking** » Fri May 27, 2005 12:07 pm

why the 4 link and not an A arm set -up?

SupraSurf · Post by **SupraSurf** » Fri May 27, 2005 12:46 pm

Wicked

I hope you drap the finished project down south some time !!!

Jafa · Post by **Jafa** » Fri May 27, 2005 7:39 pm

toyking wrote::roll: why the 4 link and not an A arm set -up?

Well to tell ya the truth there is no reason in particular. I have read a million threads on pirate4x4 and outerlimits until I was dizzy in the head on the pro's and cons of both and a few other systems. It seems that there is no perfect system, but there are a few that dont work as well as some others.Everyone will tell you that their method is best and all the others are shit. I looked at the "a frame " but went with the 4 link because it looks stronger at the top and with a raised g-box the driveshaft at max compression was going to foul the a-frame.Really this is the only reason. As far as i can tell both methods gave similar flex when played round with on the cad. The a-frame is probably easier and cheaper to make. I think its probably a matter of personal preferance more than anything as to which system you use. The 4 link is by far the most common method on pirate, dunno if this means anything or not...... :shock:

toyking · Post by **toyking** » Mon May 30, 2005 7:13 am

the advantage with the a arm set -up youre diff doesnt move from side to side ,i.e no panhard rods needed ,a more induced pivoting point for greater flex and less moving parts,we tried both on my cousin bruceys truck and we found that a arm worked better for dennys events(we love blowin away you nth islanders in winch challengers!!!!!!!!),so youre obviously going a to run a 5m for youre truck? :roll:

hmmmmmmmm .