Offroad-Express

Hi guys,

I noticed the other day I had a strange, slightly grinding noise front right when going into lh turns. So I'm suspecting the fr wheel bearing to be broken. It's a 84 Hilux surf with a solid front axle and manual hubs (Aisin). What tools do I need to get to the bearings? How much is a set/kit of new ones? I'm not mechanically stupid but have not done this before. Any pictures of a disassembly available somewhere? I opened it today but couldn't get the flange of. A local garage (Wanaka) quoted 120 for the parts and an overall cost of around 250. If I can do it easily myself I'll save on their staffcosts as I only paid 2g for the whole truck 2 years ago.


Michael

hi there try this site
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml
hopefully it might be some help to you

pm me with ya chassis number and Model code and will get ya a good price on gen Toyota bearings, could also send ya an exploded parts view of it

Dave

will see what I can do tomorrow in daylight and keep you posted.


M

i got front wheel bearing kit for $55 from toyota dealer. to get at them you unbolt the locking hub and pull out. clean out the grease you can now see and youll see a big nut. bend back the locking tab and you can usually undo it with a screwdriver. there will be two of them.

once they are out there will be a cir clip. undo this and take out, un bolt brake caliper off mount then the whole disc should slide off.

knock out the old cups, give everything a good clean and then install new ones, then seals and remember to put in pleanty of grease. and install in reverse order. make sure you dont do the wheel bearing nuts up to tight. youll want it tight, but not so tight that is doesnt spin freely.

i had never done it before and just undone what looked liked needed attacking . and the front wheels still on which as got to be good .

Wilson brothers in chch were $38 or something. The cheapest i could find. For your hubs you will need to get the cone washes off which is a pain in the arse if you dont know what your doing lol! Get a drift (piece of aluminium or brass, just has to be softer than the bolt you are hitting) and give the bolts a firm wack with a hammer to shock the washes out. Might make more sence when its infront of you. You take the outside cover off the hub with the turning bit on it and then the nuts and normal washers off the bolts still holding the hub assembly on and the cone washes will still be in there, these are the bolts you have to hit.

well i know what i meant lol
Pete

OK, the garage quoted 95 for the genuine parts, plus work that makes around 200. each side as my left one is noisy too. so around 500 all up. Reckon I'll do it myself, ordered two sets of bearings from wilson Bros. in Chch for 90something. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Cheers

M

I've taken it apart (easy, except for the bloddy cone washers ;-( )but can't really figure out whether the bearing is broken or not. It looks quite good to me, has a little bit of play in itself and all rolls look good. I think it just wiggled itself loose. I'll wait til the new parts are there and compare 'em.

BUT, i also noticed that the flange which connects the locking hub and protrudes out from all the rest is wiggly. Is that normal? or may I have a broken bearing in there? If so, hoe do i get to it (guess there's only one way)?


Cheers everybody for your help.

M

have you pulled the brake disc off of the truck? theres two bearings each side......

Of course, but thanks for asking. Does that locking hub axle have to be wiggly or is that defect? What you think?

if your talking about the axle sticking out from the housing, then yes it will be wiggly as its conected to the cv joint ands the bearings yourve just pulled out hold the axle in place

No, it was wiggly, moving in and out about 10mm straight after opening the hub housing.

M

It should have a circlip on the shaft to stop it 'wiggling' in... put a small bolt into the threaded end of the shaft and pull it fully out, then feel down the spline for a circlip or a groove... if there is a groove on the shaft and no clip then you've found the problem... you need that clip as it stops the shaft being able to push into the diff...

Steve