Offroad-Express

I am looking into ways of providing extra cooling on the 2.4 Diesels. Would anyone have any suggestion on how to do this (i.e. bigger exhaust??)

Cheers,
Dick.

I assume your talking about the Toyota 2L-T(E).

A larger exhaust is a must. Make it from the turbo back, at least 2.5" in diameter, preferably 3" if you're using pressed bends, with a straight-thru type muffler if you like.

Ensure the viscous fan coupling is working to spec. If in doubt add sylicone fluid; better to have these things working overtime than not pulling enough air on a long climb.

Have the cooling system pressure flushed (though it's surprising how much crap one can remove with a garden hose).

Possibly install a 4 core radiator, however the factory setup should be adequate when in good condition.

If it's an auto install an external ATF cooler.

- All I can think of ATM.

As smurf and definate on the radiator and he means internaly flushed not just the mud on the outside. I would look for a lower temp thermostat also

And if it's a 2LT-E block up the EGR system, not sure if the early 2LT's have EGR as well.

Cheers, Jeff.

it would stay cold if ya took it out and it sat in the garage....supra

Cool. Thanks guys. I will definitly look into doing the things suggested by smurf. Cheers.

If it is an auto check that the Trans-cooler inlet and outlet are inwards on the radiator width from the bottom hose connnector.

The radiators that have a trans-cooler that is longer and goes past the bottom hose connector block off about 60% of the water flow.
An amazingly bad design that got corrected.
If yours is like this, get it changed as you are on a hiding to nowhere.

Go to BNT and buy a bottle of wetter water (no i not pulling your chain)

Dr_PC wrote:Go to BNT and buy a bottle of wetter water (no i not pulling your chain)

what is wetter water? whats it worth? whats it do

and you can sneak in two 10inch fans in front of the radiator but behind the grill
super cheap has them cheaper than trade me
do we have a member supplier?
fit very nice takes a bit of trimming on back of grill plastic
and gotta take the rad out to install but once they are in sweet

kaney wrote:

Dr_PC wrote:Go to BNT and buy a bottle of wetter water (no i not pulling your chain)

what is wetter water? whats it worth? whats it do

http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_ ... wetter.htm

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redtech3.htm

Been running it for years in petrol and methanol motors also run it in my Jimny around $28 for a bottle

ransom wrote:and you can sneak in two 10inch fans in front of the radiator but behind the grill
super cheap has them cheaper than trade me
do we have a member supplier?
fit very nice takes a bit of trimming on back of grill plastic
and gotta take the rad out to install but once they are in sweet

I've got a supercheap 10 inch fan in the front of my surf beside one from a vitara, the vitara one moves a lot more air than the supercheap one, also the supercheap one doesn't always switch on when it is supposed to either now. I have one from a Mazda Astina to throw in next time the front of the Surf is apart. Paid less for the Vit/ Astina ones too.
snug fit but they work well

nice
and when the grills back on it looks factory
are you running an engine mounted fan as well?
how close does the supra sit to the radiator?
im gonna have to come check this out
starting too look out for cressida/supra for my dead surf
and my twincab is in for last lvv tomorrow
if it ever stops raining

ransom wrote:nice
and when the grills back on it looks factory
are you running an engine mounted fan as well?
how close does the supra sit to the radiator?
im gonna have to come check this out
starting too look out for cressida/supra for my dead surf
and my twincab is in for last lvv tomorrow
if it ever stops raining

no engine mounted fan, no room for one. Supra motor sits too close to radiator but I'm thinking of moving the motor back 15-20mm or so.


sorry for the thread jack Dick.
When I had a 2l-t diesel in my old Surf I had a 2 and 3/4 inch exhaust from the turbo right through, I put in a brand new radiator, lower temp thermostat and removed air-con radiator from in front of radiator. I also raised the rear of the bonnet by about 15mm to help move air through the engine bay

def get ya radiator clened internally, was lookin at a rad wit a trans cooler in bottom get internally clean at work alot of tubes were blocked and i mean alot surprised engine wasnt completely cooked only half baked

Ive noticed that since getting my radiator recored it runs so muhc cooler, coolant seems to flow better. Also i would check you water pump and make sure it in good shape otherwise waste of time replacing parts if your water pump is farked.

Cool as. Thanks for the suggestions guys. On another note, what can be done to help the heads from cracking in the 2.4's? Is it pretty much the whole 'keeping her cool' factor or is there other ways around it?

I was waiting for this question , The best coolant cooling system in the world won't stop the heads from cracking. This subject has been discussed many times on ORE. The head cracking is caused by poor head design causing massive heat build up in the combustion and fuel burn along with the build up in the exhaust, this is not helped on older or higher kilometer engines that suffer from blow by that causes oil to get pumped by way of the crankcase breather back into the inlet system and causes a thick build up of carbon and gunk in the inlet manifold and the inside of the head which results in more heat and poor heat exchange.
The only way around this is bigger exhaust, make up an oil catch tank for the crank case breather and then dump it towards the ground (IE; by pass the inlet manifold), block off the EGR system and most important fit and drive by an Exhaust gas Pyrometer and the best advice I can give you,

DON'T DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT,

FITZY.

SMOKEY wrote:......and the best advice I can give you,

DON'T DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT,

FITZY.

Haha. Thanks mate.

Consider installing an intercooler - a mod that both increases performance and engine longevity.

Also, and I'm surprised I didn't think to mention this sooner as it was the very first thing I did to my Surf, install an aftermarket temperature gauge. The factory in-dash one is electrically damped by way of a Zener diode - an incredibly poor design that really should have cost Toyota millions in civil liability cases.

another thing you can do to lower combustion temp and increase longevity of your diesel engine is .......

WATER INJECTION

and you can bump up the boost of your turbo at the same time giving you more grunt

win win really just a bit of cost to get set up and running but well worth it.

another thing is fumagation (LPG) which increases power dramaticly and i think also reduces combustion temps ? unsure of that one tho