Offroad-Express

im thinking about doing a bodylift on my 85 sj413.

can you please tell me how you did some of yours and where i can purchase a kit or the blocks from.

thnks

Havent done one myself (more of a fan of virtual lifting a vehicle ) but if you dont get many replies here, try going here

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/nzook

(not stealing your memebers Mike - most are on here anyway I think )

cheers
Rex

im already on tht forum but cnt post messages coz my email is bouncing

but thnk ne way

Gday fearless

I did a body lift (50mm) on my SJ413 a few months back.. and dont know if it's really worth doing.

If you do do it don't go higher than 2 inches (50mm) if you do you will have quite a few more problems to deal with.

I made my blocks out of UHMWPE (nylon/wearstrip plastic) 50mm shaft with 10mm hole through the centre. From what I remember there was 10 needed, so you will need the following:
10? spacer blocks, your local engineers should be able to drill and part these off in the lathe.
4 M10 X 100mm bolts, flat washers and nylock nuts
6 M10 X 120mm? bolts flat washers and nylocks

the short bolts are at the very front and at the very back of the vehicle.
there is four that go across the vehicle just behind the front seats. and now the tricky bit..
There are two in the front where your feet go, you will need to cut holes in the floor to get to the old bolts to replace them with the longer bolts and then weld a patch back over the holes when the vehicle is lifted. There is also two mounts behind the front seats which you need to cut the floor open to get at.

The fuel filler breather line needs to be extended (the main fuel filler hose is long enough but you have to undo the hoseclamps and slide it down a bit for some extra length). I did this by cutting the hose and putting a bit of pipe in between it.

There is a bracket on the drivers side of the engine bay for brakes, undo the two bolts and let it hang down.

both bumpers will need to be lifted up 50mm

a small guard needs to be made to cover the fuel filler hose in the rear wheel arch

i think thats it

I thought I'd post what I did incase anyone is about to do a body lift. I've probably put you off it now
Any problems my MSN is mud_plugger@hotmail.com or email r-wilson@xtra.co.nz

if i do decide to do a bodylift i will probably not use nylon blocks and use that method as i am not to keen to cut up my floor.

probably go with the aluminium blocks and do it tht way.wat is involved in this?

wat are everyones thoughts on bodylift methods?

cheers

mike

fearless wrote:if i do decide to do a bodylift i will probably not use nylon blocks and use that method as i am not to keen to cut up my floor.

probably go with the aluminium blocks and do it tht way.wat is involved in this?

wat are everyones thoughts on bodylift methods?

cheers

mike

Gday.

It could be done without cutting holes in your floor, but you won't be able to use 4 of the mounts, which means you could have trouble getting a warrent. It is a fair bit of work. I'd buy springs if I was going to do it again. Extended shackles is another option.

Springs are the proper way to do it.They cost more, but take hardly any time to put in and they improve articulation as well as height not like shackles or body blocks

From Roy

What happends to the steering angle? Do you need a longer steering rod to reach the box.

Depends on the height of the lift. There may be enough slak in the slip joints in the steering to allow for movement but would you want to take the chance it may not be enough.

A spacer can be fitted to the rag joint although this and the body lift will have to be certified if still road worthy.

If doing a body lift I would do the absolute minimum and do the rest with suspension.

Heath

I really dont even know why u r considering a bodylift.....
go for the spring over axle...they are leafs all around are they not...for about the same effort u can have about 4 inches or 100mm of lift and all u need is some1 who knows how to weld...like me...and some brake line exstentions ...and steering linkage fix .. ( custom make one if u know how to weld cut ur steering linkage in half and insert and a piece of metal to drop the linkage to a satifying angle)....if u really want to b safe might want to think about driveshaft spacers (google breeze industries in canada)....it will give u way more clearance and it looks much better... have a look on http://www.island4x4.com to find out more about the backyard process... I HIGHLY RECCOMEND THIS.... dont even bother wasting time and money on bodylifts.....save yer money and get some lower gearing.... did u know that u can use the 5:13 3rd member from a 1992 suzuki sidekick...i think they are call a jimny here???
I dont know much about yer wofs fer road legality but if u have a good welder this shouldn't b a prob

im going to direct u 2 the calmini thread ....its seems that has more in it about spoa lift.....good luck and please take my advice

turtlezuk wrote:dont even bother wasting time and money on bodylifts.....save yer money and get some lower gearing.... did u know that u can use the 5:13 3rd member from a 1992 suzuki sidekick...i think they are call a jimny here???
I dont know much about yer wofs fer road legality but if u have a good welder this shouldn't b a prob

Think you sort of hit the nail on the head there turtlezuk (didnt realize you were from overseas). Wof/cert wise I think it would be easier to get a set of lifted springs and put in body lift blocks. While a spoa may be easier for the home handy man (see Ben about this) cert wise may be more difficult with changing steering components etc. I havent done this myself so more than happy to be corrected
While you are acheiving the same lift going either way (spoa = 4 inch lift, susp lift and body lift = 4 inch) doing a spoa you are raising the engine/gearbox/transfer the 4 inches which I assume is a major part of your COG factor?? Not a good thing in a vehicle that has already suffers from falling over Again be good to hear what Ben has to say since he has just done a SPOA. For a bush truck I think this would be teh way to go, but with trialling I need my arse as close to teh ground as possible
Talking of gears for a 413/410/samurai, I said it ages ago (so I will repeat it) I got my 4.16 gears built for $270. $150 for finding the correct 410 t/c (must be late 84 with 4wd light) and $120 for machining. These transfer cases are getting hard to find but you can still build the "rockhopper" case for well under the $1000 or so that it costs from the suppliers I fitted 31's under my 410 with only a spring lift and a bit of virtual lifting. Assuming this is all you are wanting to do - fit 31's??

Sorry about the long rant, few too many beers after work

You can body lift and get all the mounts without cutting the floor but you need to get or make a threaded piece to extend the bolts in the places you can't remove the bolts . You could thread a steel block , wind it onto the bolt then drop the chassis on and run a bolt up the other way but the better way is to get a big bolt bore and thread this and run it through the mount onto the existing bolt ( if yo7u know what I mean ) .

I would personally go for the virtual lift .

thank for all the info guys but i am no longer doing a bodylift.

the plan is now to turn it into a dedicated bush truck as my back end around where the back door hinges to is completely rusted and beyond my repair.

was thinking of doing a flatdeck conversion or similar.

any one got ideas or suggestions

you could try to find a ute cab. But I guess they are really hard to find.

Heath

ive always wanted to cut down a yota box an mount it to the back of my zuk....i think that would be tits
COG factor is covered by the wider stance u would get from the offset rims an tyres....this is a must do when raising a zuk....unless u like to drink yer beers sidewsays or upside down.....
question about the wof...what does it matter if you bodylift or spoa, either way u r going to have to mess with the steering ...unless u like bumpsteer.
....i hear ya bout the t-case...im talkin bout the pinion gears (from the escudo not the jimny) in the 3rd member...it;s a very handy trick for boulder breakers....

i spose it is same for the escudo?.i was thinking about making some blocks for my scudo, but sounds like not bother and just lift the whole thing.i have a hilux solid front from a 85 2.4 d that if could find a 5.2 ratio for i would love to put in,any one tried yet?

spanky wrote:i spose it is same for the escudo?.i was thinking about making some blocks for my scudo, but sounds like not bother and just lift the whole thing.i have a hilux solid front from a 85 2.4 d that if could find a 5.2 ratio for i would love to put in,any one tried yet?

Hi spanky, I'm doing Lux axles into a Vitara for a mate at the moment - see http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... pic&t=2235
It's no simple job but we're getting there doing a body lift too because it's having 33" ground hawg's under it. Post any thing you want to know in that thread - you show me yours and I'll show you mine

hi just done 8in lift on my 413 brought from usa
3 in body 5in springs from calmini $1800 landed at your door and just bolt on
http://www.puresuzuki.com
or email carey@toltec.co.nz

weekenda wrote:hi just done 8in lift on my 413 brought from usa
3 in body 5in springs

JEBUS!! 8 inches?! i'm feelin so inadequate..

thats pretty damn tall!! especially on a 413? any roll over feeling? hows it feel on a sideling?
5 inch springs would be pretty solid, wouldnt they? i prefer the soft ride good artic thang.. ( not sayin yours doesnt) would like to see a pic if poss?

cheers

my 2c...

no its not to bad 33x12.5x15 on 8in rims with 40mil wheel spacers and big off set rims about 1500 wide

holy sh**!!!

weekenda wrote:no its not to bad 33x12.5x15 on 8in rims with 40mil wheel spacers and big off set rims about 1500 wide

have you got pics? we need pics