Offroad-Express

ive never done one before ... in fact ive never owned a car with cv's in it before! ... any tips would be apreciated as im flying blind on this one..... i picking that i remove the hub assembly from the shock tower and pull the inner cv off the spline then feed the boots on from that end ... is this correct or do i have to dissasemble the fwh's and do it from the outer end??

Cheers meece .... BTW is a front cv joint a WOF'able item on a 4wd? as it not it's primary source of motervation?

Take the free wheeling hub off, take the steering arm off, take the bottom strut bolts off, take the bottom a frame nuts off, also take off the wheel, and the whole thing should slide off the bottom of the a frame (the whole hub assembly that is). Remember to take the cv clip off the hub before taking the whole thing out (its behind the FWH). It takes 5 mins to pull the whole hub off depending on whether the castle nuts will come off or not, and breaking the tapers.

This way its easy to work on it.

Go to a place like BNT who loan out a CV boot stretchy tool, this allows you to leave the CVs and half shaft on and slip the boot over top.

Just whip the hub off and swing it out of the way, slip your boots on with the tool, pack them with molybdenum disulphide grease and secure them with the clamps, refit the hub job done.

No a blown CV boot is not failable on a WOF not even on a car that the CV is its only form of drive. The only time you can fail a WOF with a split CV boot is when the grease is on the brakes. So you can have no boot left and grease all over the car except the brake and you will pass.

turoa wrote:Take the free wheeling hub off, take the steering arm off, take the bottom strut bolts off, take the bottom a frame nuts off, also take off the wheel, and the whole thing should slide off the bottom of the a frame (the whole hub assembly that is). Remember to take the cv clip off the hub before taking the whole thing out (its behind the FWH). It takes 5 mins to pull the whole hub off depending on whether the castle nuts will come off or not, and breaking the tapers.

This way its easy to work on it.

Thanks Turoa and Truck-fixer ... all done now ..... just seat belt....horn....reverse lights to go now is reverse lights a wof item??

meece4x4 wrote:Thanks Turoa and Truck-fixer ... all done now ..... just seat belt....horn....reverse lights to go now is reverse lights a wof item??

No problem dude. Reverse lights are not a WOF issue on trucks, I take it that it's the same with cars.

My Dad's disco failed its last WOF because of reverse lights, cost couple of hundred for a new switch (manuals are uncommon) the check sheet had a box for it...

I thought if reversing lights were present they are supposed to work??

if fitted they must work. I believe that trucks can either have a backing beeper or a reversing light fitted (must have one of them) or both.

Heath

Well how about that then. Better make sure they are going then.

nstacey wrote:My Dad's disco failed its last WOF because of reverse lights, cost couple of hundred for a new switch (manuals are uncommon) the check sheet had a box for it...

bugger yet another thing to fix