Offroad-Express

I am thinking about putting an 80mm spring lift in my landcruiser. Thought about going soa but it is now my daily driver. What are the pros and cons about resetting my old springs or getting new ones that are already lifted? Are the new springs slightly longer? Cheers.

why a spring lift? what year cruiser? what tires are you wanting to run?

I want to run 35 tyres properly but I dont want to go soa. Is there any other options? cheers.

what year cruiser? i just did a 2 inch body lift to run my 35's.. the bump stops should be long enough to stop them topping out into the guards. the only things you'll need to do is adjust the hi-lo ratio lever and pto lever( if you have on) i had to use a BFH to adjust the floor pan to allow the pto lever to engage.. the exhaust on mine rubs where it comes down off the turbo, but my new big bore will be made so it misses... and the back whells will rub on the inner guards with the big tires if the rims dont have enough offset, i am getting my rims turned and re-offset to stop the rubbing.... body lift blocks and bolts wont be more than a couple of hundy and a arvos work to fit in the drive!!

ive got body lift spring lift and shakell lift and i run 35s ezy but u can fit them with just a body lift

i like what cruzerboy said on this one.. a combo of bits would work well, a lift like that would mean stiff springs which equates to 'vomitron' flex... (lack of flex.. ) a little lift over all facets wouldmean no big changes to levers, no big changes.. could work well..

as for my opinion, well, you already threw that out the window.. although h20's is soa and drives a minta...

food for thought..

SOA baby don't #### around. Probably be cheaper to do than get new springs (maybe not counting cert ), be one of the best mods to do, keep your nice flat springs, they drop away nicely. If your worried about road manners then get some Rancho adjustable shocks so you can have the soft offroad and a hard setting on road. will be fine on 33's but will let you fit a 37 without much hassle

Go On you know you want to, and i can sort pretty much all the parts, couple of steering bits and some brake lines ............................do iiiiiiiitttttttttt

33" donuts fit on a stock 70/73 with no rub, so to run 35s cleanly you should only need two inches of lift.

Advantage of SOA as mentioned is you get to keep your flexy old springs, however it's also the most involved job compared to a shackle, spring or body lift. All of the suspension lifts will give you more articulation at the expense of road handling. If you're going to be happy with 35s for the long term then a 2 inch body lift would be my suggestion - you're only lifting a fraction of the vehicles mass therefore your centre of gravity stays at a more reasonable level. Lifted leaves aren't cheap and you risk ending up with a bone jarring ride depending on the spring rate.

If anything bigger than 35s are somewhere on the horizon I'd go for the SOA and be done with it. You need a cert for 35s anyway - get the whole lot done and pay once.

you could just do shackle lift for now. i have done this on mine. only $ 10 steel a couple of 12mm bolts bit of 1/2" galv pipe for spacers. hardest part is getting pins out of old shacles if you reuse them. still only takes couple hours. you will still need longer shocks and ditch front sway bar though.

DIRTY74 wrote:ditch front sway bar

I'll look forward to seeing you on http://darwinawards.com/.

Swaybar disconnects aren't hard to set up.

i run 35s on my prado and thats just had a 2inch body lift which seems to work a treat, could do with a little bit more clearence but will deal with that at a later stage

We have a 2" shackle lift, and a 2" spring lift, no problems with flex either, although we did fit a set fo drop shackles to the rear to help, but I don't see why a lifted spring needs to be stiffer, our 'cruiser springs are still real soft.
What motor are ya running? Some may not turn 35" tyres as they suck a bit of power, so I am told.