Offroad-Express

Hi guys

For reasons unknown yet I am up for engine work.

104 000km and lost compression in cylinder # 1 and # 6.

Number 6 is a burnt valve, confirmed by leakdown. 100psi
Number 1 is blowing through crankcase breather. 150psi

No idea what has caused this, possibly hasn't been filtering suitably - research on K & N filters in off roading from the internet shows they don't mix and let too much dirt through. It has not been thrashed when I've had it and regular servicings.

People I speak to think it is odd for this motor (4 cam one) to have done either of the above.

What to do

Remembering that I intend to keep the vehicle due to mods already done, and no intention of selling.

- Fix burnt valve that is causing misfiring and carry on driving.
- Rebuild, drive in - drive out $8500 (ish)
- 2nd hand engine, waiting on quote's but basically 4000 - 5000
- pull engine myself and take it to another engine recond and fit myself $5500
- Do an engine conversion (Rover/Lexus...?) $$?

Before everyone says Lexus - need to know why! The Paj 3.5 is great for off roading, has loads of power & saves certification.

Hoping for suggestions, I am leaning towards pulling engine myself and getting it overhauled.

Hearing the news on Friday was not a good day!

the old man had one and it was a great motor the 3.5 quadcam,i would fix the valve and drive while looking for a good 2nd hand one,pm the motor details and i will look up here for prices.
vaughan

I would look at pulling it and fixing yourself, the valve is easy the other could be almost anything. I would pull the head off the bank with #1 and have a look to see what and how bad it is (or isn't) Oh and mark the timing first.

Make any decicion after you know what #1 is, it could be as simple as sleaving that cylinder and new piston and ring's.

Will a motor after a full overhaul ever be as good as a new one?

better than what youve got! haha, should be as good as a new engine, the overhaul being hand built instead of thrown together on a production line.

An engine after an overhaul is usualy better than a new one. firstly you know how you put it together, know what went wrong and fixed the problem, and it is run in hardened and rev's freeer um freeier um easier and you know the gearbox and everything else will match up withour refaceing the bellhousing etc.

Also it is sometimes cheaper to repair than replace have you had the top off #1 yet? it does depend on what you need to do to the block and cost of parts.

I would trust a rebuilt engine better than one sent out in bubble wrap! I have seen 3 new cars and a boat with new motors a Daimler (gearbox leaked from new forgot to fit a gasket) Holden Commodore (there was a missing pin (they never found it) on one piston it ran OK until the motor loosened up a little and then a rod went through the block) and a brand spanking new Drag motor from the US built with big pockets they left a valve retainer off and on startup it made a hell of a mess (the expensive bits started falling out of it). Oh and the boat was a full rebuild and it threw all the oil out of the bottom they RTV'd the oil pan on and forgot to bolt it up the fire almost ruined the boat too.

Compare that to that the rally car's you see have one engine for an entire season (group N) crash or not and the WRC boys have theirs for 5 rally's (whole rally's not stages), I have seen a Group A (limited number of engines) rally car with a cracked block (Hit a tree) run 2 cylinders (bored oversize and sleaved) and weld up the water and oil galleys finish a season (ran 6 months) with that block.

The Devil you know is better than well me

Steve, I like your way with words.

No, I haven't done anything yet, haven't had a chance to take anything apart.

So take the heads off and have a look at #1 bore & see whats up, with the engine still in the car?

I'll have no idea what I'm looking for regarding the bore but I can take pic's!

Either way the heads need to come off so I have nothing to lose

With the 4cam head I get it to #1 TDC then take cam belt off right? Then when the head goes back on, need to make sure #1 is TDC again and cams all in sync....?

I was always of the opinion that the devil you know is better than the one you don't but the reason i asked about the 'as good as' is to do with motorbikes - XR's and the like never seem as good when redone.....

yep i would wip head off and have look at number one and then work from there as two timing up there is marks you line up ...information 2 turns off crank is one turn of the camsharft so if you got the crank at top dead center you could be a turn out so the is marks on the cranksharft and camshafts or morelike dots two line up with the back cover.. take the cranksharft pulley off, sometimes u can undo the little bolts and it comes off if it has them if it doesnt have them you will need to take the center one out and use pullers when you got pully off take the plastic cover off and find the marks ..when the marks line up losen entionsioner off take belt off the cam will want to move but that only causes proplems when you put the belt on..have fun

mar4les wrote:yep i would wip head off and have look at number one and then work from there as two timing up there is marks you line up ...information 2 turns off crank is one turn of the camsharft so if you got the crank at top dead center you could be a turn out so the is marks on the cranksharft and camshafts or morelike dots two line up with the back cover.. take the cranksharft pulley off, sometimes u can undo the little bolts and it comes off if it has them if it doesnt have them you will need to take the center one out and use pullers when you got pully off take the plastic cover off and find the marks ..when the marks line up losen entionsioner off take belt off the cam will want to move but that only causes proplems when you put the belt on..have fun

this was from december 07 mate, keep an eye on the dates of the last post.

rangimotors wrote:

mar4les wrote:yep i would wip head off and have look at number one and then work from there as two timing up there is marks you line up ...information 2 turns off crank is one turn of the camsharft so if you got the crank at top dead center you could be a turn out so the is marks on the cranksharft and camshafts or morelike dots two line up with the back cover.. take the cranksharft pulley off, sometimes u can undo the little bolts and it comes off if it has them if it doesnt have them you will need to take the center one out and use pullers when you got pully off take the plastic cover off and find the marks ..when the marks line up losen entionsioner off take belt off the cam will want to move but that only causes proplems when you put the belt on..have fun

this was from december 07 mate, keep an eye on the dates of the last post.

yea thats funny BUT if it was me and it was an auto.. i'd just put a lexus in it and be done.. why because they are cheap,have plenty and love to rev... as for the auto just do the lexus hybrid conversion and your set.

ok, It was fixed ages ago and alot alot alot cheaper than we expected.


A) a lexus wouldn't fit very well
B) It'd be horrendously expensive to make fit properly
c) With my manual 3.5 I'd take on a Lex auto repower any day.

NJV6 wrote:ok, It was fixed ages ago and alot alot alot cheaper than we expected.

So what was done and do you remember what it cost ?