Offroad-Express

Hey guys,

I have a 1995 SWB Manual 3.5l pajero. It has been lift with 33s and has free wheeling hubs.

The logic
Both inner CV boots are split and at least one of the CVs is gone. The CVs seem to be the weak link in the drive train from what I have read. therefore I figure that having a second set of axles and CVs is probable handy.

The plan
Purchase a second hand pair of axles and swap them with the rooted set currently in the pajero then after Xmas when i have a bit more funds fix the rooted pair so i have spares incase I blow one while out in the middle of nowhere.

The Questions
Are the axles and CVs from all gen2 pajeros interchangeable or do I need a set from another 3.5l?
I read a post on here somewhere which said that the 2.8TD is similar to the 3.5l would there axles work?

Thanks
Matt

Hi Maje,

I have one CV here, it's for a 87 so I don't know if they are the same, it they are all good if not oh well....
Can anyone help by letting us know if they are the same?....

Hi there

An 87 one will not fit.

You realy do need a specific 3.5 one I think. I have 2.8 ones in mine as I put the different diff ratios in.

3.5's have 4.636 ratio and 2.8's have 4.900. I have since found that all SWB 2.8 have the 4.636 ratio as well...... So, If you get one from a Jap import 3.5 (LWB or SWB) or a 2.8 SWB then it should go. Actually its only the drivers side 3.5 one you need, the others are the same. I cannot comment on if the 3.0 ones will fit, but I have a spare one in the shed I can look at tomorrow.

I have not had a CV to bits on one of these - I am surprised to say they are a weak link. With 33's you'd need to be pretty hard on it to break one. I suggest doing a ball joint flip in the front if its not already done to reduce outer cv angles

I run 33's with cranked torsion bars and have not had any issues with cv boots or cv's - tested them a bit too.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... pic&t=2159

Gutted. I thought that might be the case. There dont seem to be many 3.5 being wrecked. I might just replace the CV and boots if you think they are strong. Would be the quickest way to get me back out there.

I rung Mitsi and they said that a new CV would be $500. Will ring round a few places tomorrow.

It has had a ball joint flip. I think doddzee did it when he owned it.

Nice thread helpped answer a few questions

Thanks for the offer suzuki1k.

hi i have some v6 challenger front axles complete, had 4.636 diffs.if you have apart and count splines and measure i can check

Did the Challenger have 'super select' 4WD? Hopefully it'll have the 8 inch front diff & if so then the spline count willl be the same as Paj and just maybe will fit.

It is where the inner CV bolts to the axle with 4 bolts that the difference is. It is only about 2mm, when doing my diff swap I cursed for about 30 mins trying to get the last 2 bolts in but just wouldn't go then realised the opps.

yes had super select box

r/h inner cv flange bolt holes are 110 mm diagonal. can remove axles from hubs and diff and measure if your keen

Repco will possibly sell you one for $60 or something stupid that'll fly to pieces pretty smartly.

I have just been out to the shed and as accuratey as I can I reckon a 3.0 one will fit. It 'appeared' to have the same pattern as my old 4.636 that sorry you can't have !

So I'd try genuine. Ask Wacko on here - he may have a spare one he can part with, at least you can try. If not they're a dime a dozen being wrecked.

I realise they are not being wrecked - you should try finding a 2nd hand DOHC!

'Whips out to shed again'

Yep, the 3.0 one I have in the shed is also 110. Must just be the 4.900 that is different.

So go and get a 3.0 one and be happy! Make sure it comes from a Manual one, just to be sure. Some V6 Gen 2 Auto's had a smaller front diff, Wacko will know if the cv's bolt up or not, he put the smaller front diff in to get the lower ratios the early Diesels had.

Hope that helps

P.S. The southerly has hit southland.

Awesome. Thanks heaps for all help and the offers.

It must be nice having a shed full of paj parts to play with I working on mine.

I have manual 3l axles and CVs lined up (still waiting on the price). Also getting both rear calipers off them as one of mine is seized.

Mrplane. Will let you know if the 3L ones dont work. Are you in Wellington by chance?

Go the southerly!!! I want MUD

no in auckland, can do them for a good price.

Hi
From my experience with CV's and I've had a few (Just look further down the forum list) I'd go Brand New. I used 3 pre-loved before fitting a new generic one I got from Wacko and have not broken one since. And I give it a hammering. Ask him what brand as they have been VERY strong and well priced. I got quoted $900 from the local mitsubishi dealer !!
Just my two cents worth.

Cheers Mike

they have been strong? good stuff. they are the cheepies off trade me. brand new. bout $80 maybe? ill try and dig up the auction or seller.

this guy... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listin ... ber=529658
but i dont think he does inner cvs. had to go to repco for them.

Cheers for your help guys. Have ended up buying the axles off mrplane. Will let you know how they go.

He has lots of Paj's he is wrecking. My brother bought a complete axle of him when his CV stuffed out.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listin ... ber=700391

Look on Trademe, username Victorhan, he is selling new CV's, Im using one in my Safari with no problems, i think i paid $75 including freight to Wellington

Nizsafari wrote:Look on Trademe, username Victorhan, he is selling new CV's, Im using one in my Safari with no problems, i think i paid $75 including freight to Wellington

way ahead of ya... thats the guy i linked too.

Replaced the passengers side Axle at the weekend with the Challenger axle from mrplane. The CVs themselves are a fair bit smaller and it is now leaking diff oil too. There is a difference in the cups (the green bit) in that the challenger one does not have the lips on it that the pajero one had. The shafts going into the gear boxes seemed identical. When funds permit (new year) I will get the original CV replaced and then swap it back over.

Very little oil came out of the diff when we pulled the axle out. This seemed strange. when the new axle was in we filled the diff up with oil and then it then it started pissing out round the CV. I am presuming that you fill it to the hole on the front of the diff. We may have slightly over filled it as we had a big injection thing and oil was coming back out the hole when I put the plug in, but still wouldn’t have thought it would leak out like that. There was no evidence that oil had been leaking out around the CV in the past but as i have said it seemed that the oil level was low... I am hoping the reason for the leak is the difference in cups. What do you guys think?

Learnt a lot of lessons through cocking up. I know for next time.

Will not be going off road till the leaky diff is sorted but i am guessing it is ok to drive on the road at the moment in 2H with the manual hubs in free wheel. Is this correct?

Mike H - Thanks posted a queston on one of his auctions and he said he couldnt help

Wacko and Nizsafari - Thanks have asked him if he can supply inner CVs as all his were outer.

Nizsafari I'm also in Plimmerton. When i get this fixed we should go out for a play.

Yes, if you have your FWH out and in 2H, you will be OK. The fill hole is what you said on the front of the diff and it won't hurt being slightly overfull, it should not be coming out though.

There is a seal there that you may have pinched? I think they are pretty easy to replace - mine is just weeping a bit and will do that at some stage.

Interesting to hear that about the challenger cv's. They were and obviously still are based on the Triton L200.