Offroad-Express

Afternoon All

Help please!

As I was coming out of the Waimak yesterday I noticed my rear locker had not disengaged. It had been working properly all day, last definitely disengaged about 30 mins prior.

It is still with the factory setup of only working when in 4wd. However even in 2wd the rear tyres are chirping every time I turn and the dash light is still on fully, not flashing.

I went back into the loose sand near the bridges and tried releasing any tension on the pin by driving tight circles in either direction, both backwards and forwards. Also tried disengaging/engaging in Lo 4, Hi 4 and 2wd to no effect.

This has happened once before but it dropped out after a couple of hours.

Any ideas please, on how to release this and or maintain it?

Old Blue, is there any chance of posting the service manual on this stuff?

Thanks in advance
Johnno

water in the vacume lines???
you mite be able to use an air compressor to dissengage it, blow air donw the vacume lines

This is the electric locker not sure if you mean blow elextricity down them, will take a lot of air to produce that static

You can manualy change it over if needed by pulling the covers off and lifting it. I think this next bit is wrong **You CANNOT remove the diff with it in the locked position so be aware of this** but be careful if you try pull the diff one way the dog gear gets hooked up.

I cant remember the colour codes but there is possibly a stone in there that will not allow the lever to drop or the motor may have a dead spot either way you will probibly have to pull it down and have a look.

Having a look through my list of links.

Edited to correct myself

There are two connectors on the locker. There is a smaller 2-pin connector which connects to a switch that closes when the locker is actually locked, and a larger 5-pin connector which connects to the actuator motor and limit switches.



Pins 1 and 2 go to the motor. Applying +12v to pin 1 and ground pin 2 locks the unit. Reversing the polarity unlocks it.

Pins 3, 4, and 5 go to a limit switch, and are used to stop the motor before the mechanism reaches its mechanical limits. Pin 3 is connected to pin 5 unless the unit is locked. Likewise, Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 unless the unit is unlocked. Notice that while the unit is in transition between states, both pins 3 and 4 connect to pin 5.

So to lock the unit, put the alligator clip across pin 3 and pin 1. Apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 2. While the unit is transitioning from the unlocked to the locked state, pin 3 is connected to pin 5, and so pin 1 receives +12v. Once the unit determines that it has moved far enough to be locked, pin 3 becomes disconnected from pin 5, pin 1 no longer receives +12v and so the motor stops.

Likewise, to unlock the unit, simply put the alligator clip across pins 2 & 4 and apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 1. Once the unit is unlocked, the connection between pins 4 & 5 is broken, and pin 2 no longer receives +12v.

I grabbed the info from here, I think I got the last one wrong also it may be you cannot remove the locker unlocked (the top of the dog clutch hits the housing).

http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/

I think setting under the truck with a power source (read 12V battery) and a couple of clips you will get it sorted. Also you can have the leaver go too far this means the factory controller has no idea what state the locker is in locked or unlocked jumpering the locked selector and pushing the button will prove this.

Good luck, and a 50mm lift would make it easier to get under it too

Jono, the only thing Ive seen happen, is inside the actuator unit there is a pressed sheet metal finger that can get strained and bent.
You can unlock the diff by removing the actuator and useing a screwdriver, thru the hole, move the rack to unlock it.
dismantle the actuaor and check the insides.

Iv'e downloaded some pix's on the diff lock on Photo Albums Page 14 4/5

Thanks for your help guys. I have copied all the photos thanks Kev, and the great write-up thanks Steve.
Wont get to work on it tonight but I will scratch my head over it and get the system figured out and thru my thick cranium!

Am not sure that either of your wiring diagrams apply to me Kev as one version has three lights, is this as you have modded Yours? I see the note home-fabbed-wiring. And the other seems to have provision for the single light to be only on or off. My light has a transition phase where the light does a relatively slow flashing, similar frequency to an indicator.

For the last couple of years my light has never fully come on, it has only flashed. The diff-lock was working properly though. Before this the light did work correctly.
And now of course the light is fully on and my tyres chirp nicely!

Interesting actually, as I have an early G.P. racecar that runs a solid axle from one wheel thru to the other. When I eventually restore it, (it will be road legal) driving it may be similar to what I have now, although the tyres are about 1/3 as wide and 3 times the pressure on the car.