Offroad-Express

OK, I have fitted rear discs to my Surf using a set of brackets from Deranged (cheers) with Nissan calipers, and I have also fitted a 80 series brake master cylinder with a LN130 Surf Brake booster.
For those who have done a rear disc conversion, or know more than I do... Did you remove the rear proportioning valve or leave it in?
My brakes pull me up fine, I am just wondering if they work better with or without the valve?
I need to be able to come to a complete stop from 100kph within 6 seconds to pass cert.

Smurf wrote:OK, I have fitted rear discs to my Surf using a set of brackets from Deranged (cheers) with Nissan calipers, and I have also fitted a 80 series brake master cylinder with a LN130 Surf Brake booster.
For those who have done a rear disc conversion, or know more than I do... Did you remove the rear proportioning valve or leave it in?
My brakes pull me up fine, I am just wondering if they work better with or without the valve?
I need to be able to come to a complete stop from 100kph within 6 seconds to pass cert.

Hi Smurf,
my limited experience is this I have passed cert twice on my rear disc conversion and i'm still running a std booster and master cylinder, i'm running mitsi callipers on the rear, I would suggest going for your cert as is, if it fails spend time/money sorting it

Cheers Tim. I have already spent al the money/time sorting it (hopefully)

It pulls up pretty well with the new booster and master cylinder but I am interested to know from people like yourself who have rear discs fitted whether they have removed the rear proportioning valve or not and if it has improved the braking with it removed or not.
I was talking to Chopper tonight and he reckons it would be better to remove the prop. valve.

I had to replace my booster as the original was full of water and rusted up to heck, the pedal wouldn't come up off the floorboards once you put your foot down on the pedal. So I fitted a double diaphragm booster from a LN130 Surf. I figured since it was all coming out I may as well replace the master cylinder at the same time. So i fitted a 80 series Cruiser unit.

Ok that was long winded... Tim have you removed your rear proportioning valve?

I had mine disconnected from the axle and tied in the full-up position and it worked well there. The idea is to limit rear braking more and more as the load comes off the back (ie: hard braking, bum comes up so brake force to the rear lightens up - this stops you locking up the back end, which in an emergency braking situation on a wet road could cause major problems) so I'd be inclined to leave it in.

You can fine tune them on a stretch of gravel road... adjust it until all 4 wheels are locking up at the same time.

Steve

Removed mine

hosehustler wrote:Removed mine

thanks Tim.