Project Scudo

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warlord225
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Post by warlord225 »

remember the way to drive a vit, is foot to the floor
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doddzee
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Post by doddzee »

warlord225 wrote:remember the way to drive a vit, is foot to the floor


Thats the way to drive all 4wds isnt it :D
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lilpigzuk
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Post by lilpigzuk »

doddzee wrote:
warlord225 wrote:remember the way to drive a vit, is foot to the floor


Thats the way to drive all 4wds isnt it :D


hope you have a good source of front driveline bits :lol:

back to your low ratio thing

try PMing some of these guys in UK on difflock.com (you may have too register?)

http://www.difflock.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5421

its a bit of a close fit for a twin Tcase setup on a swb i use to run just a sammy tcase instead of the vit 1. gearing was bit low for 32" and a bit high for 34" so 33" would be spot on:)

on the new truck( tray back) as its a lwb i have a vitara and sammy tcase setup gearing is brill

when both Tcases r in low and gearbox is in 1st at 4000 rpm is about 5 mph on 34"

gearing in 2wd is good

3500 rpm in 5th is 58mph on 34"


definetly doable, I havent looked into it but its been done with the SJ transfer :wink:
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doddzee
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Post by doddzee »

lilpigzuk wrote:hope you have a good source of front driveline bits :lol:


Wish i did. Blew the front diff today, how do i tell what the ratio is? plate on firewall doesnt seem to tell me much.

Anyone got a diff the want to sell me??

Saw this one but it seem quite pricy http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... d=88766603
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Rotazuk
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Post by Rotazuk »

Hi
If you have an auto they usually have a 4.62 ratio . A little lower is the 5.12 out of a manual . But good old suzuki never kept things the same so you need to check each vehicle .
Also while I was swapping out the t/case on my cousins ( for one with 4.24 low :D ) the casing between the two is redundant . I think you could take out 6 + inch from in there , then you would have room for two t/cases in a swb .

Chris
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

How did you blow the front diff?
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doddzee
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Post by doddzee »

Rotazuk wrote:Hi
If you have an auto they usually have a 4.62 ratio . A little lower is the 5.12 out of a manual . But good old suzuki never kept things the same so you need to check each vehicle .
Also while I was swapping out the t/case on my cousins ( for one with 4.24 low :D ) the casing between the two is redundant . I think you could take out 6 + inch from in there , then you would have room for two t/cases in a swb .

Chris


Whats the best way to be sure which one it is?

turoa wrote: How did you blow the front diff?


Just tried to jump up a bank just about got it and it started to bounce and went pop. Will pull it apart tomorrow and confirm what is broken but it sems to be the diff.
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mroffroader
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Post by mroffroader »

doddzee wrote:Blew the front diff today


haha well done :x .......find someone that is wrecking a zook (like a backyard guy trying to make a few bux and it will be cheaper.....
80 series tow bus towing a redneck ass vitara :D
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doddzee
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Post by doddzee »

Well i was wrong :oops: First time for everything ah :wink:

The diff is not broken :D Broke the short side axle instead. So if anyone has one they want to sell let me know or can anyone recomend a good place to get one.

Image

Image

Think i may have to lay off the right foot a bit in the zook
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mroffroader
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Post by mroffroader »

doddzee wrote:Think i may have to lay off the right foot a bit in the zook


could be a good start....... :lol: do not go and buy a new non orignial part, they are much weaker than a suzuki part go on trademe and find someone with a second hand one in good condition and there heaps cheaper too! :wink:
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WACKO
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Post by WACKO »

there was a long wheel base at pik a part the other day. not sure how much was left on it tho.
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spanky
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Post by spanky »

doddzee you must be rough! my scudo lives on the limiter with a kevlar clutch ,and i have never broken a axle . have to admit blew one front diff so bad i had to tig up the bottom of the diff housing were bits came out and the last one was breaking the mounting brackets off the housing so now has 50mm x 5mm plate that holds diff head on to cross member. try mudfkr on trade me, was by far the best value i found. cheers
vaughan
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doddzee
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Post by doddzee »

WACKO wrote:there was a long wheel base at pik a part the other day. not sure how much was left on it tho.


Yeagh went up there yesterday and grabed the handbrake off it to set up my fiddle brakes. Both diffs axles etc have been taken.

Cheers Spanky ill try mudfkr.
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icekayak
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Post by icekayak »

Is it the side that goes into the front diff you broke?
if so i have one with a broken lower cv joint... so if you could be bothered i could send it down to you faily cheaply and you could change it at the top cv if that makes sense :)

otherwise tepuke was charging $95 for pair of half shafts :) which is what i replaced it with... cheaper and less effort than getting a cheap new chinese cv, and got otherside as a spare too...
(new pommie cv's approx $360, cheap chinese about $60)
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doddzee
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Post by doddzee »

After a week or so in the workshop its all going again, the axle has been replaced thanks icekayak :wink:

I have also got the 4point cage in and the fiddle brakes hooked up. Will find you if they are any good this weekend at club champs as there are only drums on the rear.

Heres a pic of the cage, cell pic so poor quality. If anyone wantsa better pic posted let me know.

Image

I will be selling the winch (has electrical problem last owner said), bullbars and sidebars in about month so if there is anyone interested in those let me know.
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spanky
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Post by spanky »

i have to take back what i said about you and your axles breaking , i destroyed a housing and axle in one go , i put some pics in my album.
vaughan
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