Terrano winch bars build

[kiwipete]

Well at last I have managed to score some real cheap bars for the Terrano.


I plan to remove the winch and front bumper and attach the new bars. The indicators and spotties should fit back with little modding. There is minimal work to do on the mounting points on the bars, one side has been broken away so will need replacing.
I should be able to place a new winch plate under the bottom bar for the winch and have the rope exit between the two bars. I don't know what I will do regarding the roller fairlead though, still thinking on that one. I do want it all flush with the front of the bars though.

As it looks now.


Here the new bars are just resting on the old winch.


From the side.


And from the top. Here there will be a nice gap to mount the winch between the bars and radiators, and still be able to remove it without removing the bars.


There is enough room here for a back brace, but it's a little tighter on the other side.


The original brackets are munted, maybe I can get them straightened, or maybe I will have to get some new ones made.


If anyone has any ideas or thoughts on this, im all ears.

Looks like I need to invest in a new welder now, I think my old stick (10+ years old) is in need of an update.

And yes, the truck is finally in the new shed.

[kiwipete]

I am going to make a start on this project shortly.
Firstly I want to make a new plate for the winch to sit on, or should I cut up the original Runva plate. Its about 10mm thick from memory.
If I use a new plate, what thickness do you think I should go for?
I am also thinking about having the winch plate, chassis rail brackets, and back bracing as one unit. From this the bars will be bolted on.
Good idea, y/n?
My thoughts are so I can easily get to the winch for servicing etc by removing the bars.

[kiwipete]

Well, after a closer inspection of the bars today, I will have to cut off the mounts and re-do them. Looks like they came off 2nd best along with the original chassis mounts.
I think I will get some cardboard and make some templates for them to see how it will sit before getting too far ahead.

[hosehustler]

Hi Pete,
I think the top bar would look a lot smarter if you cut off and lowered the small hoops on each side so they were just above grill height.
The addition of LED indicators between the two bigger pipes, i'd go the hella 2156 as you have the length needed;


and good sized spotties mounted between the big hoop and that bar would come up real nice.
If you plan to build a new plate I think you should go down to Fabtek and talk to Corey, he could fold one up for you and has all the 4x4 experience you need for thickness requried

[kiwipete]

Thanks for the input Tim.
I had thought of keeping the original indicators, this will save any hassles trying to get the right resistance with the LED ones. I will have to have a good think on that one.
You may be on to something re lowering that smaller bar too. I will see what its like when the main bars are set in place.
Do you have Corey's address details etc?

[Tuigod]

Definitaly agree with lowering side hoops just a thought why not just modify the winch plate you have to suite ya bars or modify bars to suite ya winch hey should look pretty good when ya sorted it though

[Tuigod]

just one other thought i reckon take off those plastic end caps off as well

[kiwipete]

Definitaly agree with lowering side hoops just a thought why not just modify the winch plate you have to suite ya bars or modify bars to suite ya winch hey should look pretty good when ya sorted it though

Yes I might just do that after all. It will save having to drill nw holes for mounting too.
I just have to decide what I will do for the fairlead, if I have it mounted on the front of the bars, I will need to fashion a horizontal hoop in front of it, (bloody WOF people don't like the existing one protruding so I have to remove it very time I get a new WOF.
There is not enough spread between the bars to place it in between them, but it might not look too bad at the front.???

[kiwipete]

just one other thought i reckon take off those plastic end caps off as well

I may do this when it is al finished, i will have to get some end caps machined to plug the ends of the tubes though.

[kiwipete]

As an added extra I want to make some simple bars like these for the back. Pictures are of an American truck from the NPORA site.
It looks like just a set of parallel bars with a rectangular section attached at each side to slot into the ends of the chassis rails.





What type of tubing should I look at here, I would like to keep it about the same diameter as the front ones.
I would also like to put a receiver hitch on it so I can remove the tow ball and place a tow hook in its place and towing attachments each side where it bolts to the chassis rails too.
What would be the suggestion for these towing points? I think hooks would be out of the question, or would they. ?
Is a cert required when making a new tow bar?

[Tuigod]

As an added extra I want to make some simple bars like these for the back. Pictures are of an American truck from the NPORA site.
It looks like just a set of parallel bars with a rectangular section attached at each side to slot into the ends of the chassis rails.





What type of tubing should I look at here, I would like to keep it about the same diameter as the front ones.
I would also like to put a receiver hitch on it so I can remove the tow ball and place a tow hook in its place and towing attachments each side where it bolts to the chassis rails too.
What would be the suggestion for these towing points? I think hooks would be out of the question, or would they. ?
Is a cert required when making a new tow bar?

Well if ya completly copy the one in the pics looking at it you could bolt tow hooks into either side or both on the tops of the chassis rail end. For the pipe i personaly reckcon ya want what ever diamater pipe ya bars is but have it with 2mm to 3mm side wall thickness actually i reckon go with 3mm cause ya dont want it 2 dent to easy

[kiwipete]

Well if ya completly copy the one in the pics looking at it you could bolt tow hooks into either side or both on the tops of the chassis rail end. For the pipe i personaly reckcon ya want what ever diamater pipe ya bars is but have it with 2mm to 3mm side wall thickness actually i reckon go with 3mm cause ya dont want it 2 dent to easy

Yes I did think of putting tow hooks where the rectangular section goes into the chassis rails, but wondered if there would be enough room to get ropes over the hook, unless the hook protrudes past the bars somewhat.
I see what you mean re the 3mm thickness pipe too. Probably be need for towing point strength as well.

[albundy]

Do what I did Pete, a hayman reese type set up so you can remove the hook and swap over with a tow ball. This way the hook is in the centreline of the vehicle.
Al

[kiwipete]

Do what I did Pete, a hayman reese type set up so you can remove the hook and swap over with a tow ball. This way the hook is in the centreline of the vehicle.
Al

That's exactly what I was thinking of Al. Did you do it yourself, or did you have to get it done somewhere?
Does it have to be certified?