Hey all,
First question:
A mate has just bought a LWB Nissan patrol (92) and asked if I knew what the tyre pressures should be. I said sure check the sticker on the drivers door - Its in Japanese so we cant read it. Can anyone tell me what the pressures should be loaded/ unloaded, front/ rear for 31/10.5/15s?
Second question:
IS it possible to replace the load sensing proportioning valve in a hilux with a proportioning valve from a surf? Basically I rarely carry anything in the rear and would like to set up the brakes for a std weight (just me and some odd bits and pieces).
Third question:
The brakes in my hilux are crap. If something leaps out infront of me it will get squashed. What can I do to remedy this? New pad and shoes (if so what compound or make do you recommend)? New vacuum booster? New master cylinder with higher volume piston? I want to make this thing safe for both me and others around me but am limited in what I can afford to do. Looked for new rotors with slots but not available for my truck, vented the same (too thin) and I really don't want to get too carried away with new rotors and disks from a different model if I have to cert it (dead money). So what are my options?
Thanks for any help.
Heath
Tyres and brakes
My usless opinon for what its worth
1 depends on the tires (no of belts and type) look on the side wall of the tire it will have a range of preasures don't go outside this... as a rule of thumb 30 to 40 psi depending on load
2 just adjust it .... the way they work is, as the load increases the chassi drops towards the axle pusing the long arm up OPENING the valve up more, giving more bias to the rear breaks.... if they get to much you'll find the back trying to pass you under hard breaking
this can be alot of fun 
not enough and all the breaking comes onto the front wheels and you guessed it under hard breaking the back can try and pass... this brings me to...
3 Your brakes shouldn't be to bad (unless your running big tires and I'll get to that..) I've had over a ton on my lux and she'd still lock the wheels! so your brakes shouldn't be to bad if they are, have a look at the pads... how much is left?
One fault you can have with the front disks is oil contamination from doggy swivel wipper seals leaking oil onto the disk
Is the pedel spongy you push it in till you hit resistance and its soft you can still move it in further.... then you need to bleed them
If you push the pedel in and as you hold it in it slowly moves in then you've got a leak or master cylinder needs a new kit
As for new pads and compounds I just buy standard pads (budget
) you can spend some money and get flash 4WD pads that handle long continuous use better but if I've got to do that I use the motor for breaking
If you want groved disks I have a jig made to do it to 6 bolt disks I'll do it for you but it'll cost ya a voucher for a box of woodstock and the postage
Best advice I can give ya... ya brakes are important... real important, if in doubt take it to the pro's
Cheers Reece
1 depends on the tires (no of belts and type) look on the side wall of the tire it will have a range of preasures don't go outside this... as a rule of thumb 30 to 40 psi depending on load
2 just adjust it .... the way they work is, as the load increases the chassi drops towards the axle pusing the long arm up OPENING the valve up more, giving more bias to the rear breaks.... if they get to much you'll find the back trying to pass you under hard breaking
this can be alot of fun
not enough and all the breaking comes onto the front wheels and you guessed it under hard breaking the back can try and pass... this brings me to...
3 Your brakes shouldn't be to bad (unless your running big tires and I'll get to that..) I've had over a ton on my lux and she'd still lock the wheels! so your brakes shouldn't be to bad if they are, have a look at the pads... how much is left?
One fault you can have with the front disks is oil contamination from doggy swivel wipper seals leaking oil onto the disk
Is the pedel spongy you push it in till you hit resistance and its soft you can still move it in further.... then you need to bleed them
If you push the pedel in and as you hold it in it slowly moves in then you've got a leak or master cylinder needs a new kit
As for new pads and compounds I just buy standard pads (budget
) you can spend some money and get flash 4WD pads that handle long continuous use better but if I've got to do that I use the motor for breaking
If you want groved disks I have a jig made to do it to 6 bolt disks I'll do it for you but it'll cost ya
a voucher for a box of woodstock and the postage
Best advice I can give ya... ya brakes are important... real important, if in doubt take it to the pro's
Cheers Reece
Opps forgot about big tires simple pysics for your breaks to stop you they first have to overcome the rotational mass of your wheels ... this isn't to bad standard as your breaks are designed for this
But everyone likes to throw bigger and widder wheels on, these weigh more meaning the breaks arn't as efficent as they have to work harder to slow the wheels, the next part is as you increase your tire size you are adding the eqivelent of a lever to this added weight (a bit like putting a pipe extention onto a socket to add extra force when undoing nuts) what this extra size dose is multiplys the weight of the wheel dramaticly increasing the force on the breaks... this is one of the reasons you need cert for bigger wheels and quite often brake upgrades
taken me years to finially find a use for what they taught me at school pitty I didn't listen hardr in englis 
Cheers Reece
simple pysics for your breaks to stop you they first have to overcome the rotational mass of your wheels ... this isn't to bad standard as your breaks are designed for this
But everyone likes to throw bigger and widder wheels on, these weigh more meaning the breaks arn't as efficent as they have to work harder to slow the wheels, the next part is as you increase your tire size you are adding the eqivelent of a lever to this added weight (a bit like putting a pipe extention onto a socket to add extra force when undoing nuts) what this extra size dose is multiplys the weight of the wheel dramaticly increasing the force on the breaks... this is one of the reasons you need cert for bigger wheels and quite often brake upgrades
taken me years to finially find a use for what they taught me at school pitty I didn't listen hardr in englis
Cheers Reece
My understanding is that cross-drilled and slotted rotors are only effective in high-use high-temperature situations, where the rotors and pads are running at very high temperatures and gasses are being released because of it... the slots are (I've been told) there purely to let the gasses escape without them buffering the pads away from the rotors.
I would imagine they would just help clean the mud off the pads in a 4WD
Steve
I would imagine they would just help clean the mud off the pads in a 4WD
Steve
I used 4wd pads last time, not much different than the cheap ones. Although I also used 4wd pads in the rear as they were the only ones available at 6:30pm on a Thursday night.... The ones they replaced looked like the original OEM ones...
When you do your pads don't forget to check the brake fluid, cos I did all of mine, there was too much in the reservoir. Which equated to no brakes coming down some very steep hills into franz...
When you do your pads don't forget to check the brake fluid, cos I did all of mine, there was too much in the reservoir. Which equated to no brakes coming down some very steep hills into franz...
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Who knew Prados could fly?
Who knew Prados could fly?
Oh, one other thing. You can fit vented rotors from a 40-series or 60-series or LN106. They are all the same - DBA151 is the DBA code. Repco sell them, or I can get you them for around $120 per pair.
They won't fit the standard solid rotor calipers - but you can bolt on the late-model big 4-pot calipers from either a 130-series surf or a 106 hilux as a direct replacement - they are all the same mounting and centreline.
You can also (for cost-saving) bolt on the earlier 3-door surf calipers which are designed for vented rotors but are of the earlier design which has two big pots and two small ones... just like a wider version of what you already have.
This is all direct replacement Toyota stuff, no mods or extra bits needed so its nice and easy.
Steve
They won't fit the standard solid rotor calipers - but you can bolt on the late-model big 4-pot calipers from either a 130-series surf or a 106 hilux as a direct replacement - they are all the same mounting and centreline.
You can also (for cost-saving) bolt on the earlier 3-door surf calipers which are designed for vented rotors but are of the earlier design which has two big pots and two small ones... just like a wider version of what you already have.
This is all direct replacement Toyota stuff, no mods or extra bits needed so its nice and easy.
Steve