BJ73 Grease points plus what do I need.

[Slideways]

Hi Guys,

Very new to 4wd's (have tried using the search function). Can someone tell me where the grease points will be on my '86 BJ73 landcruiser? I know there should be a couple on the hubs but what about driveshaft etc?

Will I just need a grease gun like the ones you use for silicon glue tubes (sealy's stuff) or do I need something with a fitting made for grease nipples?

What sort of grease should I use?

How often should I be doing this?


Cheers

[Sadam_Husain]

Grease points will be all the steering balljoints although some balljoints are sealed and dont have grease nipples on them. The front and rear driveshaft UJ's and the spline on the yokes should also have grease nipples. If you've got aftermarket greasable spring shackles and pins you need to do them as well.

Yep you'll need a grease gun to do it all. I try and give mine a squirt once a month or so and especially after the trucks been in a bit of water so the new grease can help push out any water that may have got into the balljoint boots and spring bushes etc

You want to check your front swivel housings once a year or so to make sure there isnt water getting in there as well

[pagar]

basically any where you find a grease nipple grease it... As to what type of grease get a grease gun and buy tubes of grease that have a high heat and water proof rating, I use a marine grease on my cruiser cost is almost the same as standard grease but it contains more lithium which is great for sticking like sh1t to a blanket and will not get washed out when I water blast the truck after big mud runs.

[Slideways]

Cheers guys, will go get one on the weekend and see how I get on. Bit different to my cars... but then I don't go driving them through rivers etc

[Slideways]

Sweet, well I've bought myself a 450ml sized grease gun with flexible extension jobbie. Bought a couple of tubes of Valvoline grease...can't remember which kind.

Haven't had a chance to do anything yet, been way too busy with house crap

[pagar]

bugger the house mate if it will still be standing when you get home from 4 weeling you don't need to fix it....

[Slideways]

bugger the house mate if it will still be standing when you get home from 4 weeling you don't need to fix it....

Lol priorities eh? I always end up with too many car projects too though

[pagar]

ha ha we must be related..... I have 6 cars (including my 4x4) 2 boats (one launch and a tinny for small trips and camping), a caravn and a 90% finished removation and cannot find time to do anything to any of them (except my truck)......

[Slideways]

haha yeah, I've only got 4 cars at the moment. Race car, daily , project car and the 4wd. Recently sold one though.

Want to get a dirt bike too. But money tree seems to have died...

[pagar]

whats the super charger you have on your project wagon?

[Slideways]

whats the super charger you have on your project wagon?

Supercharger is on the corolla hatch which is a SC12 Toyota jobbie (whole 4agze). They go pretty well but nothing compared to turboig these little 4age's and running an tunable ecu etc

My cruiser is actually certed for an SC14 charger but had been removed when I bought it.... maybe I'll fit one later

[pagar]

you think that a turbo is better than a super charger? (the comment on the upgrade) I would have thought even on a gasser a charger would be better?

[Slideways]

you think that a turbo is better than a super charger? (the comment on the upgrade) I would have thought even on a gasser a charger would be better?

Definitely!! Well depends on the application actually.

These Toyota superchargers (sc12 and sc14) are hugely inefficient and a very old design. They are great for bottom end torque but they aren't very good at all at high revs. Both because they sap so much power due to being driven from the crank and also because they produce too much heat at high revs.

This is in standard applications though - like on the 1600 and 2L (possibly later were 2.4's too i think) petrol motors they come on. So I would say that running an SC14 on a engine like my V6 would be great for 4wding because you have power on tap unlike having to keep a turbo spooling.

But when it comes to out and out power, turbo is much much better.

For example:
- 4agze supercharged motors (1600cc with sc12) with a bigger pulley running 14psi will make about 125kw's at the wheels on a good day with decent cooling.
- 4agze running a decent turbo (I ran a T28 ball bearing on this setup) on only 13psi made 150kw's at the wheels. Only reason I had to run lower boost was because the injectors where almost maxed out.

- My new engine (in race car) is running a standard late model 4agze 1600 with larger turbo and making 212kw's at the wheels on 17psi. A supercharger couldn't do this, both because the teflon will melt over 14psi and they just can't flow enough.

But after all of that waffle, I'd love to fit a supercharger to my cruiser!

[SupraLux]

But after all of that waffle, I'd love to fit a supercharger to my cruiser!

Just had a supercharged 3.8 powered Bighorn in the workshop and I wasn't that impressed with it to be honest- the supercharger was a toyota one (no idea what it was off) with a Castlemaine Rod Shop adapter kit - it got off its ass from the lights better but over about 40km/h it was hard to tell the difference. (had an a/c clutch on it so you could turn it off).

Perhaps a bigger one would have been better, I'm guessing the SC was from an MR2 or something similar. Supercharging is not something I've played with...

Oh, and on the grease topic - don't put too much into your spline grease nipple - they can hydro-lock which forces the two ends apart putting undue pressure on the pinion in the diff and the output bearing in the transfer case - if you're not sure undo the 4 bolts holding one end on and pull it apart and manually clean/grease the spline (mark both the alignment of the splines together and the alignment of the flanges together first so they go back together in the same place).

Steve

[pagar]

can I run both? On my mates detriot diesel he has a giant turbo feeding a super charged motor? so could I do both to the cruiser. I figure on a 4x4 wagon the charger would be the way to go cause once my wheels are spinning hard out its not really a problem but doing a hill start is hopeles cause she just bogs right down. there is a 3b on Trademe with a supra charger on it would this be one of the two #'s mentioned above??

[Slideways]

Supralux: Cheers for the tips. Thats surprising about the bighorn, guess it depends on psi and tuning too. In theory it should run like a very efficient 4.5L petrol motor if running 2.5 to 3psi.

can I run both? On my mates detriot diesel he has a giant turbo feeding a super charged motor? so could I do both to the cruiser. I figure on a 4x4 wagon the charger would be the way to go cause once my wheels are spinning hard out its not really a problem but doing a hill start is hopeles cause she just bogs right down. there is a 3b on Trademe with a supra charger on it would this be one of the two #'s mentioned above??

Yep you can do "twin charging" but would be very complicated. Most common thing to do is run them separately, ie the supercharger runs from idle to a set rev range or load then it switches to the turbo via separate piping (using a butterfly as a bypass). It has been done before on petrol motors but its very hard to get the change over correct. ie you can get a huge flat spot or delay when changing over due to having to get the turbo spooling and the air in the 2nd set of piping to compress etc etc. This setup would require twin throttlebodies too from memory.

Other option is to have the turbo feeding the supercharger or the other way around. But be careful here because it would multiply the psi more than just s/c psi + turbo psi. Also you could run into issues with the supercharger being a bottle neck (turbo trying to suck through the supercharger) or if the other way around you could over heat the charger. My guess is that your mate has something like a big Eaton supercharger?

To be honest unless you have a pretty high spec motor and huge wallet. I would just stick with running the SC14. You shouldn't have any problems with it getting out of its efficiency range because the 3B isn't a very high revving motor anyway. Unless of course you plan to ring its neck and run lots of boost!

FYI the SC14 toyota supercharger never came on a Supra. It'll either come on a 2L Crown/Grande (or similar luxury 80's sedan) or on Previa's in the 90's. The forced induction Supra's were only ever Turbo's.

If you really want a good setup then look into importing an Eaton supercharger from the states. They are much more efficient...and much more expensive. My brother bought one 2nd hand from the states about 9 years ago and that was well over a grand from memory. Pitty he never used it.

Hope this helps.


PS what about the AXT turbo kits for the 3B?

[pagar]

have not seen them in my searches for toyota match ups, have seen plenty of mention of them in forums etc. do you know of aus or us agent (for me to google).

[Slideways]

http://www.axtturbo.com.au/toy3B.html

[pagar]

thanks but not what I really need I have a 13bt so am not in need of a kit so much as turbo options, will be looking at making a t3 adaptor plate and fitting an aftermarket unit vs. reco'ing and up specing CT26, vs super charger. I am swaying towards a charger at the mo as it means I will not have lag like a big turbo and I will have the nec boost down low where I need it to get my 35's moving. hence the charger questions, is the garret that atx supply matched to the toyota lemon exaust manifold outlet or is it T3?

[Slideways]

thanks but not what I really need I have a 13bt so am not in need of a kit so much as turbo options, will be looking at making a t3 adaptor plate and fitting an aftermarket unit vs. reco'ing and up specing CT26, vs super charger. I am swaying towards a charger at the mo as it means I will not have lag like a big turbo and I will have the nec boost down low where I need it to get my 35's moving. hence the charger questions, is the garret that atx supply matched to the toyota lemon exaust manifold outlet or is it T3?

Sorry didn't realise yours was a 13bt. Think the AXT's come with a T28 variation but would have to confirm that eh.

You should try the SC14 route or get a ball bearing turbo if possible? Would be pretty expensive for the trubo though. SC14's can be had for under $500. But then you need to have pulleys machined up if you want more boost.

[pagar]

these sc14's do they have a electric clutch? cause my train of thought thus far is a charger with an electric clutch feeding the turbo and hook up a shift light controller to a relay to switch of the charger when the turbo is at spooled up rpm. so the next question is does a sc14 restrict airflow through it when not running?

[Slideways]

these sc14's do they have a electric clutch? cause my train of thought thus far is a charger with an electric clutch feeding the turbo and hook up a shift light controller to a relay to switch of the charger when the turbo is at spooled up rpm. so the next question is does a sc14 restrict airflow through it when not running?

Yep electric clutch. It would be restrictive sucking through it. Best way is separate piping.

[pagar]

hmmmmm, have you ever seen such a set up? I would struggle to figure that one out I think, might be easier and cheeper just to get a big arse super charger......

[Slideways]

hmmmmm, have you ever seen such a set up? I would struggle to figure that one out I think, might be easier and cheeper just to get a big arse super charger......

just having a supercharger will be much easier and less to go wrong too!

Try google "twin charged"

[zookfest]

im running 36" super swampers with beadlocks on my 13bt cruiser and ive noticed no change in power.she flies,came back from springs junction thru the hills 5th gear up the hills,duno if ive just got a good motor or what,she moves.Runs 10psi
im probly gana do the big end bearings soon but other than that im gana leave it alone,has great torque down low,idle's over anything.when i first got it i thort about all the things i could do to it,but at the end of the day your boosting an old engine-shortning its life and loosing reliability

[Slideways]

You want to check your front swivel housings once a year or so to make sure there isnt water getting in there as well

Finally had time to get this sorted. Have greased 6 points on the driveshafts and one point on each end of the steering arms. But can't find any grease points on the front hubs? They were totally covered in old grease gunk so cleaned them up to try find a nipple but nothing.

Should the front hubs have a nipple or can they only be greased by taking them apart?

[SupraLux]

On the knuckle you'll find a square-head plug that you can unscrew and pump it full - some people drill these out and put a grease nipple on them, but you really need about a cartridge of grease in each one (when they are empty) which will take a while with a grease through a nipple.

The manual hubs should be pulled apart, cleaned and greased every so often, especially if you're in water a lot... but they only need a coating of grease - too much and they won't disengage properly.

The best way to do the front knuckles the first time is to buy a service kit (SH4 for your model I think, or SH3 if its a trail tamer one as their numbering system is up the wop) and strip/rebuild them... then you know where you are at.

Steve

[Slideways]

Cheers Supra, found the square head bolt and filled with grease. Looks like it hasn't had any grease for a while because it took heeaaaps then started getting horrible brown watered down grease coming out followed by nice new blue stuff.

Strangely satisfying pushing the bad grease out (is that wrong?? )

[SupraLux]

If I were you I'd get the rebuild kit and schedule a tear-down in the very near future... you wouldn't have pushed ALL the old dirty grease out - so whats still in there? and whats it doing to your internals?