shhh dont tell anyone but...

Starting a project or modification? Then post it's progress here and show us some pic's.
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turoa
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shhh dont tell anyone but...

Post by turoa »

Project hilandore or landluxo'dore or roverdorre? Need a new name after I picked these up last night. Image to go in here Image I was thinking spring under on 33's or does anyone have a different idea. Might go coils after I check out what leafs can do. Or spring over on some reduced leaf packs? Now Im there does anyone have any dirt cheap hi-steer arms. And now I bought both axles for $400 I now have a surplus surf lookin for a good home in parts. Image Also, will the surf IFs steering box be strong enough to turn my wheels?

Cheers
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wopass
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Post by wopass »

im using a surf IFS box to turn my 36's under the cruiser bro so, yea i rekon you will be fine. the IFS box has the same size sector shaft and spline as all the hilux/cruiser boxes which is good cos the weak part of the surf one is the pitman arm(which i am also running for now,untill i finish my other steering link with a cruiser pitman arm) which has the ball end in it.having said that they are cheap as chips to buy,i can get them for about 35ísh buks brand new for after market ones.

thats my info anyway :wink:

ohh and GO THE PROJECT !
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SupraLux
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Post by SupraLux »

Yep, IFS power steering boxes pretty much handle the jandal... Its the common box used for crossover steer applications in Hiluxes and used by a few guys in 40-series crossovers... and I guess If Wopass can't kill his then they must be ok :P

Personally I'd go spring-over... why do all this work just to leave crap hanging about under the axles? Hilux axles have very good clearance compared to other ones, so I really think you would be better off keeping it that way... make some 10mm plates up and do a u-bolt flip while you're doing it (I can get you 75mm round U-bolts for the rear, but I think the front ones need to be made custom by a spring manufacturer... haven't sat down and spent too much time on that one)

Deranged can make you hi-steer arms as cheap as you'll get them anywhere, or you can do the steering arm flip that both I, Conan and Wopass are running. The advantage of Deranged's ones is that you get the tie rod up out of harms way...

Oh, and strip the front housing and plate up the front a little bit... they are quite thin, and prone to getting stoved in on rocks... not a good look if it gets stoved right in against the crown wheel on the diff...

Image
Heres Conans one after 14kg of welding wire, half a bottle of gas, four square metres of 4mm plate steel, 3 days and 14 cans of black spray paint :lol: He really went to town on it, but it will probably never break... ever... period.

Even if you just bend a strip of 40x3 bar up over the front edge of the crownwheel ridge and weld it in place, thats better than nothing.

Soliholuxidore? Commaluxover? JapAussiePomobile?
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eatenfuller
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Post by eatenfuller »

all that work when you could use a weldable pipe cap cut in half, in half the time and it looks tidy and covers more area
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

I like the idea of spring over (spring plates are already in the right place for the land rover springs). Whats the advantage of a u bolt flip. And how much would the U bolts be?
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wopass
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Post by wopass »

when your finished you will end up with a wicked lift,more room for huge tyres,can run softer springs to give you much more flex and next to nothing hanging under the housing on either side

like this...

Image

shows you the double arm hi steer as well :wink:
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

tell me more about this steering arm flip and strengthening the front housing. Looks like my one has already got some dents in it after steam cleaning it this afternoon. But it looks alot better without about 20 years of crap on it.
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Post by JTop »

By the time you have fitted tramp bars to stop spring wrap you may as well fit coils and move into the 1970s with Range Rover instead of Cart springs from the 1600s :lol: Then you can improve your approach and departure angles and used coils are a dime a dozen, your dads probably still got his old safari ones in the shed as well as his original patrol ones.
Remember those Southerners are a little behind the times, Turoa.
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Post by turoa »

yea he does, along with a whole lot of stuff. for example, I found a set of unused flares up in the roof, which I stuck on the landy. There are some coils, but he gave away his old long travel shocks. Damn. I was thinking a 4 link with rose joints if I go coils? or just 1 per axle for a spring over?
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Post by SupraLux »

JTop wrote:By the time you have fitted tramp bars to stop spring wrap you may as well fit coils and move into the 1970s with Range Rover instead of Cart springs from the 1600s :lol: Then you can improve your approach and departure angles and used coils are a dime a dozen, your dads probably still got his old safari ones in the shed as well as his original patrol ones.
Remember those Southerners are a little behind the times, Turoa.
J Top


J's got you covered dude, no need for us yokels to keep giving you ideas :roll: Good luck... sorry, gotta go play the deliverance theme on my banjo...

:lol: Cart springs... cheeky bastard :P Carts had two leaf springs, one inverted on top of the other... hey... now THERES a thought :D

Hey, and EF... nice to see you back, long time no see... although a welded pipe cap? sheesh! This from the guy who laughed his ass off at a square tube driveshaft :P Anything that provides strength to the front of the housing is good.

Oh, and coils - yeah go coils if you have them and the arms... but most guys who have done them on bush trucks etc sem to say that they should have just stayed leafs... more stable in the rough and better 'feel' from the trail. suprasurf will tell you that (well, he told ME that), and Tom took his front coils out and went back to leafs as well... I'll let you know since I'm putting coils in the front of the Bighorn project. At least I know I can go to leafs if it all turns to crap.

Steve
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Post by doddzee »

If you want to go coils i think i have a couple of safari radius arms, rear trailing arms lieing around and an old bent safari front housing you could cut the mounts off an put on to the hilux one. Let me know if your interest and ill take a look and see what i can find. You got to put some Nissan bits on it somewhere!!
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

SupraLux wrote:
JTop wrote:By the time you have fitted tramp bars to stop spring wrap you may as well fit coils and move into the 1970s with Range Rover instead of Cart springs from the 1600s :lol: Then you can improve your approach and departure angles and used coils are a dime a dozen, your dads probably still got his old safari ones in the shed as well as his original patrol ones.
Remember those Southerners are a little behind the times, Turoa.
J Top


J's got you covered dude, no need for us yokels to keep giving you ideas :roll: Good luck... sorry, gotta go play the deliverance theme on my banjo...

:lol: Cart springs... cheeky bastard :P Carts had two leaf springs, one inverted on top of the other... hey... now THERES a thought :D

Hey, and EF... nice to see you back, long time no see... although a welded pipe cap? sheesh! This from the guy who laughed his ass off at a square tube driveshaft :P Anything that provides strength to the front of the housing is good.

Oh, and coils - yeah go coils if you have them and the arms... but most guys who have done them on bush trucks etc sem to say that they should have just stayed leafs... more stable in the rough and better 'feel' from the trail. suprasurf will tell you that (well, he told ME that), and Tom took his front coils out and went back to leafs as well... I'll let you know since I'm putting coils in the front of the Bighorn project. At least I know I can go to leafs if it all turns to crap.

Steve


Couldn't help but laugh at that post.

But seriously, somebody tell me about how wopass's and supralux's and conans steering arms work. More pics?

And doddzee, how much do you want for those bits?
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Post by SupraLux »

Image

If you look at the pass. side knuckle on your new axle you'll see just one arm with 4 nuts on top. Under each nut is a flat washer, and under that is a cone washer that 'locks' everything solid when cranked down.

This method simply needs longer studs machined up, or use cap screw the right length. My cert guy prefered the stud idea although never said why... probably since thats what Toyota used in the first place.

In Conans one there are 4 machined spacers to separate the arms, but I have used cone washers both top and bottom of the spacers to lock everything solid as it is all bolted together (so, bottom arm, then cone washer, then spacer, then upside down cone washer, then upside down arm then lock washer then nut).

The I used a 40-series drag link with a Hilux balljoint into the arm... the other end I had the IFS relay rod machined to thread into the link so I could use the tapered hole to adapt to the IFS steering box:
Image
Image

Hope that helps... keep asking, keep thinking :)

Steve
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Post by SupraLux »

Oh, just a few things...

1. use the rear axle from the IFS truck. Its 3" wider and beefier construction, and has bigger brake drums (do the disc brake mod anyway - muuuuch better braking)

2. save the IFS axle stubs, you can adapt them easily to your solid axle to give the same 3" of extra width in the front.

3. save the brake calipers from the IFS surf... you can fit vented FJ40 rotors and use those calipers... instant brake upgrade.

4. Save the brake master cylinder and vacuum assy from the IFS surf and bolt it into the Landy to provide the braking power you need.

Steve
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Post by JTop »

don't forget to suck on that Mooonshinne and do some Hawg calling
J Top
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Post by doddzee »

And doddzee, how much do you want for those bits?


Ill see what i have got and get back to you.
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

Progress made today. Stripped it Image shiny metal Image Image Moved spring pads. Tommorow I will have a rolling landrover chassis to check caster etc. And can anyone tell me what this is Image Dont worry Jtop. Just experimenting witht the southerners way of life at the moment. Will upgrade to coils at a later date.
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Post by De-Ranged »

Its a splash baffle, (should be two) you'll see a couple of we tabs on the sides (top and bottom) these clip this in, I've given mine a tack weld to keep them out of harms way and make certain they don't fall into the diff :wink:

Cheers Reece
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Post by mike »

putting those under the landy means easy access to lockers. twin lockers for under $800 in a LR = awesome :D Something my hybrid wont get that cheap :cry:

Mike
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Post by mercutio »

i like lockers
they are great
now all i need is some tyres to make proper use of them
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

yea cheap lockers. It would be good if I could afford them though :( 35's come before lockers.
the other good thing about the lux axles are the good ground clearence :)
If it would stop rainging i'd get a pic of an old chassis sitting outside with my rear lux axle in and my dads creepy crawlers
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SupraLux
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Post by SupraLux »

You should have shaved that housing while it was out too... gain an extra nearly 1" of clearance under the diff head and remove the silly drain plug :)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154306

Steve
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

im gonna shave my other diff housings. Not too worried about the rear one. The front will get armor though
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

Well no updates because i'm too lazy to wait for the pics to upload, but I need ideas for an anti diff wrap bar. I was going to use somethin like wopasses one with rose joints but.. I think I'm goin to get lots of spring wrap because im going to reduce the spring packs. Any Ideas??
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Post by wopass »

im making a set of MUCH longer spring perches for mine as well, i figure that with more surface area the diff is going to have a much harder time trying to bend the spings to wrap the diff.... you know, fulcrums law and all that.

the origanal perches are about 120mm so im making some that are 200mm, basicly the same length as the bottom leaf.

should work, i think :wink: :roll:
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Post by SupraSurf »

How much will you sell me the 131R for :)
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

ha, I would sell it but its my dads. Its been put back together since that pic and its REALLY loud. It just has one resonator on the exhaust. Not many people can pick out a 131r
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Post by SupraSurf »

turoa wrote:ha, I would sell it but its my dads. Its been put back together since that pic and its REALLY loud. It just has one resonator on the exhaust. Not many people can pick out a 131r


Many cool memories in my old 131R, they are fun to throw round.
Wouldn't mind another one day :)
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turoa
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Post by turoa »

My dad's one has got an abarth gearbox. Very fun on the auto cross track. It changes gear really quickly. Too lite in the rear for my liking though. Put your foot down and the back steps out on you.
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Post by SupraSurf »

Mine also had the Abarth box, nice to use with a short shift

Let me know if the car is ever for sale :)

Image
Last edited by SupraSurf on Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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