ideal shocks for me surf

[J_Dub]

now that ive cleared me xmas debt. i can start spending coin again on me truck. want to replace shocks, what should i get, what do you recomend, im sticking with standard springs at the mo, as the old leafs flex pretty well, so i just want longer shocks??? im getting new brake lines made up this week to allow for the more flex. im used to lowering cars and with coils i had to get the right shock to keep the coil captive, but with leafs that doesnt need to be the case so cant i get more travel than i need in my shocks???? trucks a beam axle surf

[Chopper01]

commy shocks in the front and cruiser shocks in the back is the cheapest way of doing it

[J_Dub]

commy shocks in the front and cruiser shocks in the back is the cheapest way of doing it

what model comy and what model cruizer, and roughly how much more travel from factory that give?

[Steve_t647]

you can also try the 2wd hilux front shock as they are longer but you will run out of up travel. I went for 50mm extended cruiser in the front (and had some shock towers made up as diff went forward) and 50mm extended standard shocks to go in the rear but with the lifted springs and a modified hanger at each end as I also did the Ubolt flip at the same time.

You want to be careful on up travel as if you use a shock as a bump stop they don't last.
You can't do the Ubolt flip with the standard steering either I went to crossover from Jafa.
What do you want out of the surf and how long are you going to keep it?
If we have a better Idea of what you want we can recommend the best upgrade path.

For the price of the shocks and the advantages and disadvantages with longer shocks you may want to spend the money somewhere else first like a locker (that way flex is not as limiting factor), and as you mod further you can do as Chopper or I have suggested.

Cert will cost arround $500 if you change the steering and shock towers, the steering will set you back around $1000 (may be more with the current exchange rate) the springs well it depends how you plan on doing them rears up front you need a new driveshaft and a few other bits. If we know where you want to get to we can plan it in stages building towards what you want rather then reinvent 5 times or if it is only a fun for now truck we can advise best bang for buck.

[J_Dub]

hhmmm.... well i plan to keep it for a long time, no intension of selling, and do alot to it over time.... think i will be sticking with the l.s.d rear as pretty impressed with its performance and will eventually get a front locker... locker is a bit down the track tho, so for now, in the very near future, body lift shortly, 50mm suspension raise in the rear to level it out, longer (alot) travel shocks, getting new extended brake lines made up this Friday, then once body lift is done me and the old man can get back to doing front and rear bars then after front bar is done, a winch. i dont thrash it every weekend, more like once a month, hopefully that changers tho

[Steve_t647]

hhmmm.... well i plan to keep it for a long time, no intension of selling, and do alot to it over time.... think i will be sticking with the l.s.d rear as pretty impressed with its performance and will eventually get a front locker... locker is a bit down the track tho, so for now, in the very near future, body lift shortly, 50mm suspension raise in the rear to level it out, longer (alot) travel shocks, getting new extended brake lines made up this Friday, then once body lift is done me and the old man can get back to doing front and rear bars then after front bar is done, a winch. i dont thrash it every weekend, more like once a month, hopefully that changers tho

OK with your long term outlook I personaly would not do the body lift (a body lift will allow bigger tyres but not change the chassis position so no better articulation). This is what I would do:

Stage One: I would do a 50mm spring lift all round, and cruiser front and rear shocks you may loose a little up travel in the std cruiser front shock but wont have to move the diff forward change steering or play with too much for the brake lines the standard ones are fine just chop off the metal bracket at the chassis and move it down. (stage one)

Stage Two: Your down articulation in the front is limited by the torque rod above the front diff and this cannot be removed with the push pull steering (jump on the brakes and throw yourself off the track or road) to remove this you would have to go crossover steering (see Jaffa and ask for a flat Pitman Arm instead of the front spring hanger) and that is about $1000 in parts and you remove the torque rod.

Stage three (option 1) would be original rears to the front bigger (and longer) shocks, modified upper shock towers in the front (moved forward and up) and U bolt flip kit (this would also mean new lower shock mounts in the front and back on the diff) diff moves forward new leaf spring hanger (longer) and longer rear shakle or going to Falcon Ute springs in the back (means moving the front and rear spring perches), and bullbar as front bumper will not cut it. At this point 37's would fit in the front but you would need to cut up some panel's in the back and longer brake lines and long spline driveshaft.

Stage three (option 2) Put a Surf axle under the back and coil the rear, original rears to the front bigger (and longer) shocks, modified upper shock towers in the front (moved forward and up) and U bolt flip kit (this would also mean new lower shock mounts in the front) diff moves forward new IFS Front Hub Swap (as seen on Hosehusslers build) and this will make the truck much more comfortable and easy riding and long spline driveshaft.

Stage three (Option 3) would be original rears to the front bigger (and longer) shocks, modified upper shock towers in the front (moved forward and up) and U bolt flip kit (this would also mean new lower shock mounts in the front and back on the diff) diff moves forward new leaf spring hanger (longer) and longer rear shakle or going to Falcon Ute springs in the back (means moving the front and rear spring perches), and bullbar as front bumper will not cut it. Leave only the main and Military (top two leaves) in the leaf pack and get long coil over shocks. At this point 37's would fit in the front but you would need to cut up some pannel's in the back and is a very poor man's coil conversion and longer brake lines and long spline driveshaft.

Stage Four chop the rear to shorten the body a little and push the rear diff back to give a slightly longer wheel base.

Others may have other opinions but I see a body lift as short term and will be removed later to help stop the surf from rolling over it also allows you to grow with the 4wd and end up with a better product, if I was looking for a Project to start I would do exactly as my brother is getting the parts together for and that would be a prado swap under a 1kz powered surf (like Hosehusslers build) but I have a Hilux Ute (similar to your surf).

I have done Stage 1,2 and 3 option 1 others will have different opinions of what to do but look to where you want to get to and spend the money once. Do what you think is best for you but look at what you want in the end.

[J_Dub]

shite... plenty a info there, cheers mate, in time the coon swap is on the cards, but untill then, im sticking with what susp i got, and just do a few bolt on things to slighlty improve it. main reason is i wana keep it mobile ie: anything i do will take no more than a weekends work, so i can just keep thrashing it and enjoying it, as in its current state its pretty dam capable and reliable, and im sure the 3y will blow sum day, then its in the garage for a new donk and mods... i wana do body lift cause its cheap as, and i get more clearance away from gaurds, shocks need replacing regardless as the fronts look stock from 23 years ago, so may aswell get more travel with those ( a mate can get discountted susp), replacing brake lines as even now with current flex they are pulled to there limit, then i will remove the ties in the leafs, so from just all that i should get alot beter travel, easy small cheap things that take little time now for the time being, then as i said once body lift is done can finish the bar work to then fit winch.... happy with all that for now.... then thrash it till i decide it needs the stuff you mentioned along with new engine

[Steve_t647]

longer shocks will reduce the travel a body lift does not change the suspension geometry in any way you would get less up with longer shocks possibly more down in the rear, do the body lift put a spacer in the steering and cut the brake line mounts off the chassis and weld them on further down.

Replace the shock's with larger standard ones and drive it you probibly won't kill the 3y it is a real simple engine.

Spend the money for shocks on Rims and Tyres, I still run the 4y as I have not been able to kill it and with standard suspension the shock's are old but still work.

[J_Dub]

yea im well aware body lifts dont alter susp in any way, i may be fairly new to the game but im not that clueless as i said im doing the body lift to get more height away from wheel-guard, and its a cheap option, ive got near new 33" muds, its got very tight rear l.s.d, got diff breathers, and the 3y is 50k from being fully recoed, so your right it probably wont die anytime soon