Starting to look at drive shafts for my suzuki . the rear is ok as the drive flanges a parallel , we as near as I can get and can be tweaked once ride hight is set . But the front is not good . Due to the ackward way the engine fits in the front output points slightly skyward and so does the front diff . Rearing a bit off the net I need a cv drive shaft etc . I belive a hi lux has one in the front , is this true ?
If so does anyone have one for sale that I can get modified to fit . I have lux axles but a nissan gearbox .
Or any other cheap ideas .
Chris
Drive shafts
Chris, I can't remember exactly but I thing it was Deranged or Jafa who was going to make a driveshaft with a double cardan at each end because he had heaps lying about - might be worth a look.
Be wary of the Hilux ones because the IFS surfs had them as well - and the IFS one has a far shallower maximum angle although they look identical.
The IFS one CAN be modified to a higher angle tho, have a look here for more info:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod
As a side note, the front driveshaft on a 60-series cruiser has the same double cardan as a solid axle hilux.
I used a 60-series one for my rear shaft on the MU since some a&%hole 'borrowed' my Hilux one from my driveway and forgot to bring it back... The adaptor I used is on the 'day 8' page, countersunk cap screws throught the adaptor onto the flange, then threaded holes to bolt the driveshaft onto the adaptor. Make sure the alignment rings are spretty exact, thats what centres the shaft.
Hope that helps
Steve
Be wary of the Hilux ones because the IFS surfs had them as well - and the IFS one has a far shallower maximum angle although they look identical.
The IFS one CAN be modified to a higher angle tho, have a look here for more info:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod
As a side note, the front driveshaft on a 60-series cruiser has the same double cardan as a solid axle hilux.
I used a 60-series one for my rear shaft on the MU since some a&%hole 'borrowed' my Hilux one from my driveway and forgot to bring it back... The adaptor I used is on the 'day 8' page, countersunk cap screws throught the adaptor onto the flange, then threaded holes to bolt the driveshaft onto the adaptor. Make sure the alignment rings are spretty exact, thats what centres the shaft.
Hope that helps
Steve
Gidday Chris
Yep I've got a spare front drive shaft or two... I had collected them with the idea of putting CV joints at both ends
since learned it would have been a bit of a waste....
As for coin
I wouldn't have a clue, I've noticed there is one on trademe for $140 and he claims its stuffed... is that what these things are worth, sounds like a bit of a dreamer....
Steve you'll know....
Cheers Reece
ps if you just want the CV joint it might take a couple of days b4 I can see enough to use the grinder.
Yep I've got a spare front drive shaft or two... I had collected them with the idea of putting CV joints at both ends
since learned it would have been a bit of a waste....
As for coin
I wouldn't have a clue, I've noticed there is one on trademe for $140 and he claims its stuffed... is that what these things are worth, sounds like a bit of a dreamer....
Steve you'll know....
Cheers Reece
ps if you just want the CV joint it might take a couple of days b4 I can see enough to use the grinder.
hi, ive had my cruiser front shaft modded with what was supposed to be a lux D/C joint but it turned out to be worse than my original.. read, NO FLEX.. could not even bolt it back together to flange.
they now have another one but want another 200 to make it work.. this one is a more flexy joint.
I have found a much cheaper D/C joint from a LN60, Ln65, Ln106 and petrol versions.. but i dont know if this is the same one as the one that was no good
they now have another one but want another 200 to make it work.. this one is a more flexy joint.
I have found a much cheaper D/C joint from a LN60, Ln65, Ln106 and petrol versions.. but i dont know if this is the same one as the one that was no good
Callum, the LN60 is a beam axle surf, so has the high-angle d-cardan... sounds like they used an LN61 or 130-series one the first time on your shaft - as I mentioned to you they are similar / virtually identical looking.
High angle double cardan front shafts are worth gold... I paid $60 for my last one with a siezed slip-joint and no UJs in it...
Steve
High angle double cardan front shafts are worth gold... I paid $60 for my last one with a siezed slip-joint and no UJs in it...
Steve
For that price I'd be looking at other joints... have a look at High-angle driveline in the US and ask them what you could spend your money on... ( http://www.highangledriveline.com ) - they have a cool 42 degree capable joint there...
Steve
Steve
'Cos they are worth good money and you can just rotate the axle so the pinion angle is at 0 degrees.
The idea of a double cardan is that it rotates around in a near perfect circle, ie it does not get longer or shorter at any point in its rotation and so it doesn't cause vibration (assuming its in good condition)...
...and UJs are the same, but only when they are running dead straight. the higher the angle on a UJ, the more eliptical the arc they run on and the more vibration induced into the drivetrain... soooo... d-cardan at the gearbox end, bending the drive towards the axle, and a UJ at the axle pinion flange, with it pointing directly up at the gearbox flange... perfect setup for a vibration free driveline.
This is a damn good idea for the back end of a SWB Patrol too. I run on in the back of my MU due to short driveline length and high angles between the gearbox and the axle.
Ok, so why not run two? No real reason other than its a waste, and its a lot of weight to throw around at the 'live' end of the driveshaft, which will probably cause premature aging of the pinion bearing and seal.
Hope that makes sense - theres a tech article in the box on the right side of the main page that has a detailed breakdown of driveshaft tech, but that covers the basics I think.
Steve
The idea of a double cardan is that it rotates around in a near perfect circle, ie it does not get longer or shorter at any point in its rotation and so it doesn't cause vibration (assuming its in good condition)...
...and UJs are the same, but only when they are running dead straight. the higher the angle on a UJ, the more eliptical the arc they run on and the more vibration induced into the drivetrain... soooo... d-cardan at the gearbox end, bending the drive towards the axle, and a UJ at the axle pinion flange, with it pointing directly up at the gearbox flange... perfect setup for a vibration free driveline.
This is a damn good idea for the back end of a SWB Patrol too. I run on in the back of my MU due to short driveline length and high angles between the gearbox and the axle.
Ok, so why not run two? No real reason other than its a waste, and its a lot of weight to throw around at the 'live' end of the driveshaft, which will probably cause premature aging of the pinion bearing and seal.
Hope that makes sense - theres a tech article in the box on the right side of the main page that has a detailed breakdown of driveshaft tech, but that covers the basics I think.
Steve