Any one fitted the 80# toyota front shocks in GQ nissan's?
2" lift 80# toyota has about 25-30mm more lenght than 4" nissan shocks(Nissan vehicle has 4" lift)I know some of the winch boys run twin toyota systems,I think single shock only for more suspension drop.
All above is front suspension/shocks not rear
Thanks
Shane
Toyota shocks in nissan
Moderator: Mark
Would be a great way to improve the resale value of your Nissan 
I haven't done that on one, but I removed the shock towers from one GQ shorty and cut about 50mm out of them, then re-welded and refitted them. Same overall effect.
You can only do that if the truck has a body lift tho, as the body gets in the way of one of the bolts so you won't be able to get the towers out.
Steve
I haven't done that on one, but I removed the shock towers from one GQ shorty and cut about 50mm out of them, then re-welded and refitted them. Same overall effect.
You can only do that if the truck has a body lift tho, as the body gets in the way of one of the bolts so you won't be able to get the towers out.
Steve
Yip we run 2" 80 series OME springs and shocks in the front they fit and work well.
They should give you more droop, make sure your spring still remains captive. Safaris are limited to the amount of flex you can get out of the radius arm setup due to the bushes binding up. Keep this in mind if you fit crusier shocks and it doesnt make any diference. Easy way to fix that is to pull the front left radius arm bolt out which removes all the binding, i wouldnt recomend driving on the road without the bolt in though as it makes then unstable.
They should give you more droop, make sure your spring still remains captive. Safaris are limited to the amount of flex you can get out of the radius arm setup due to the bushes binding up. Keep this in mind if you fit crusier shocks and it doesnt make any diference. Easy way to fix that is to pull the front left radius arm bolt out which removes all the binding, i wouldnt recomend driving on the road without the bolt in though as it makes then unstable.
SupraLux wrote:
I haven't done that on one, but I removed the shock towers from one GQ shorty and cut about 50mm out of them, then re-welded and refitted them. Same overall effect.
Steve
Steve, you have done what i was planning to do, except make up complete new towers.
Did this allow 50mm more downwards travel or did the bushes bind up first??
It allows better droop definitely - the shocks were fully extending, but now the bushes bind before they do, which I figure is good for the bushes, cos it'll soften them up a bit and good for the shocks cos it WON'T soften them up a bit
With the 80mm springs in the front, the shocks are still not close to fully closing when crossed up.
I'll take some pics when I get a chance.
Steve
With the 80mm springs in the front, the shocks are still not close to fully closing when crossed up.
I'll take some pics when I get a chance.
Steve
Yep, sounds exactly the same problem as mine.
Shocks fully extend way before the bushes bind, and use less than half their travel on compression. The axle doesn't touch the bump stops, its as if their isn't enough weight to compress the springs. By this stage you have a back wheel of the ground
Any chance of grabbing pic's of the cut and welded towers?
Cheers,
Pete.
Shocks fully extend way before the bushes bind, and use less than half their travel on compression. The axle doesn't touch the bump stops, its as if their isn't enough weight to compress the springs. By this stage you have a back wheel of the ground
Any chance of grabbing pic's of the cut and welded towers?
Cheers,
Pete.
DieselBoy wrote:Yep, sounds exactly the same problem as mine.
Shocks fully extend way before the bushes bind, and use less than half their travel on compression. The axle doesn't touch the bump stops, its as if their isn't enough weight to compress the springs. By this stage you have a back wheel of the ground
Any chance of grabbing pic's of the cut and welded towers?
Cheers,
Pete.
Exactly what happens... we ramped it and found about 80mm of unused compression in the shock, so figured 50mm less tower would be ok. The springs never fully compress, even with me jumping on the corner of the truck it was only closing up another 5mm or so...
So out with the chop-saw, and out with 50mm...
I'll take some pics - hopefully friday.
Steve
The springs never fully compress, even with me jumping on the corner
Hitting a bump at full noise is way harder on anything than jumping on the front corner. With our thing I can jump up and down with almost no effect, but when hitting a 300mm (or less) bank at full noise the bump stops get a bit of use. If the shock travel finishes before the bump stop can stop axle movement the shock will demolish itself in no time at all. If you have the suspension height space the bump stop down, if not then the shock tower needs to be raised.
Yep, considered that... there is still room in the shock... it will require about 20mm of compression of the bump stop before the shock will bottom.
There is a possibility in the design that at full noise a severe compression could bottom the shock, but its a slow offroad truck, not a desert racer, and for more articulation the owner was happy to take the risk (besides, we picked up a second set of towers to make shorter so if hes going to do any high-speed competition work he can swap them back).
Steve
There is a possibility in the design that at full noise a severe compression could bottom the shock, but its a slow offroad truck, not a desert racer, and for more articulation the owner was happy to take the risk (besides, we picked up a second set of towers to make shorter so if hes going to do any high-speed competition work he can swap them back).
Steve
