80 series factory rear locker issues

[red-devil]

its a great site for info on the 80. been a member for a few years now.

[skid]

8) its a great site for info on the 80. been a member for a few years now.

spent an hour or so searching site last night and found sweet FA

[red-devil]

wot were you seaching for.

there are writ ups on rear lockers the sun roof drain problem.

you do have to remember to think in yank as the locker is called
e lock sometimes

[wopass]

try this one


http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz ... tuator.htm

[skid]

try this one


http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz ... tuator.htm

holy crap, didn't realise there was so many bits in them

getting more and more scary for myself being a non mechanical chappie

oh well, may sit down one day under the muddy 80 and start fiddling

lucky for me coz I have no idea what I'm doing that I lay everything out on a board and mark it so I know where it came from.

I could never understand how you fullas just chuck everything in an ice cream container and know how to re-assemble it.

wot were you seaching for.

there are writ ups on rear lockers the sun roof drain problem.

you do have to remember to think in yank as the locker is called
e lock sometimes

would of gone thru about 12 pages of threads in an hour or two, found a couple of things to do with lockers and E lockers, but nothing that really related to me and my situation.

to be honest it would be nice to find a write up from someone who has had exactly the same problem

no rush though, really need to spend money on other things first, so if its gonna cost then we only go wheeling with the front locker for a while.







THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE GUYS

KEEP IT COMING

[Heath]

why is http://www.1h8mud.com now a gardening forum? Yanks given up 4 wheeling?

hahahahahahahaha

try spelling it properly.............

http://www.ih8mud.com/

I cut and pasted. seems I was had.

[Sadam_Husain]

Any progress?

[vvega]

it was funny as hell reading this threed from the start

skid .. 2 thinks basically go wrong .. wires corode or you get bad contacts
or 2
the motors get over heated .. BECAUSE
unlike what has been said in this threed
they dont get momentary power
they are supplied power and when the encoder disc on the crown.. if you can call it that says that it has loaded the spring up that moves the dog... it stops
if the encoder gets dirty .. then it keeps on supplying power untill ethier.. the fuse blows or the motor burns out

they have ANOTHER pulg on the module that tells the dash if the pin is locked or not .. and because the pin is spring loaded
it dosent nessaceraly happen at the same time

if you cant hear it working ... its basically got no power.. it seized or the motor has burnt out(it will do this if it seiezed as well ... oh or the magnets fall off

when i fixed mine
i got nathan on here to get the motor rewound.. threw in some new bush's .. re timed aligned and reglued the magnets
and there happy as a pig in shit

cost to rebuild it .. about 4 hours + drying time and 150 bucks to have the motor rewound

hoep that helps

[skid]

Round 3 down and it still doesnt go

Round 4 will happen in a few weeks time and hopefully after all the false starts and determining things as we go along, we will have a good result at the next attack.

Otherwise it will need rewinding etc etc etc, and thats money I don't want to have to spend

Thanks for ya help today Pedro

[Sadam_Husain]

How to wire a Toyota E Locker- Press Here

After picking up a Factory elocker for the Prado, i have been searching for a way to wire it. I originally thought you get the factory switch and wire that into the 4wd system...... how wrong was I . I didnt realise that there is a sep control module for the locker.

Spent hours searching the net for info and while there is lots out there they all have different ideas and setups. I have used one based on a simple relay system (KISS)

After searching the vehicle mine didnt have the factory wiring installed. Easy way to find out is look at the wiring for the suspension in the rear. If you trace it back it goes to just behind the rear large door on the side/top of the fuel tank (Prado LJ71)


If there is only the one plug like mine yours doesnt have the factory wiring. Dont worry i have the wiring to make it work

First make sure you get the factory wiring with the Diff. It will include the wiring for the shocks, i stripped the shock wiring out of mine as i have replaced the shocks. There is two plugs on top of the Diff a 6 pin (only 5 wires) and a 2 pin.

Top of locker


Locker wiring

Control Circuit


There are two connectors on the locker. There is a smaller 2-pin connector which connects to a switch that closes when the locker is actually locked, and a larger 5-pin connector which connects to the actuator motor and limit switches.




Pins 1 and 2 go to the motor. Applying +12v to pin 1 and ground pin 2 locks the unit. Reversing the polarity unlocks it.

Pins 3, 4, and 5 go to a limit switch, and are used to stop the motor before the mechanism reaches its mechanical limits. Pin 3 is connected to pin 5 unless the unit is locked. Likewise, Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 unless the unit is unlocked. Notice that while the unit is in transition between states, both pins 3 and 4 connect to pin 5.

So to lock the unit, put the alligator clip across pin 3 and pin 1. Apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 2. While the unit is transitioning from the unlocked to the locked state, pin 3 is connected to pin 5, and so pin 1 receives +12v. Once the unit determines that it has moved far enough to be locked, pin 3 becomes disconnected from pin 5, pin 1 no longer receives +12v and so the motor stops.

Likewise, to unlock the unit, simply put the alligator clip across pins 2 & 4 and apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 1. Once the unit is unlocked, the connection between pins 4 & 5 is broken, and pin 2 no longer receives +12v.

Using the limit switch will prevent the unit from reaching its mechanical limits and will avoid the problems I encountered.

The question has been raised as to whether the limit switch can handle the current drawn by the electric motor. That being unknown, the proper way to build a control circuit would be to use relays or transistors to handle the motor’s current.

The locker control circuit is fairly simple to build. The circuit below can use standard Bosch-type relays (Bosch pin numbers are shown on the diagram). These relays are inexpensive, rugged, and easy to find. Be sure that you are using double-throw relays, there are also double-pole SINGLE-throw Bosch-type relays that look similar but will not work. If you are using the Bosch-type relays, make sure that they have the 87a terminals on them, and not the 87b or double 87 terminals. See links below for more info on relays. Other 12 volt double-throw relays will work as well. The contacts should be rated 10A or higher.


The control switch is a momentary contact, normally open (off), SPDT switch. A regular toggle switch will work as well, however, the momentary contact switch is safer because if the actuator mechanism ever got jammed, a non-momentary switch would continue applying power to the motor and could burn it out or burn up your wiring. I know of a case where this happened and the wire actually burned a hole in the trucks carpet. It is also important to properly fuse the circuit and use properly-sized wiring. I am using a 6 amp fuse (could probabaly go even lower) and 18 gauge wire (some may argue for larger wire).


Using the momentary switch, you must hold it for about 1 second while the locker engages or disengages. If the control box is in the cab, you should hear the relays click off once the mechanism has reached its limit.

Locker Control Circuit:



Wiring Colours (LJ Prado's dont know about other lockers)

Pin 1 = Blue
Pin 2 = Blue/Orange strip
Pin 3 = Green
Pin 4 = Green/Yellow Strip
Pin 5 = White/Black Strip
Pin 6 = Red/Blue Strip
Pin 7 = White/Black Strip

Pins 5 and 7 join together just down from plugs

Purchase Parts

Went down to local auto sparky and purchased all the parts for $53 including 3 metres of 7 core cable.

Parts that i got

2 x Bosch 03322091650 relays
1 x Spark Shop Part number 32-120-S Tog Switch
3 Metres of 7 core cable.

Wiring

Scary part yes, but on the end of the wiring from the diff is a single 6 pin plug. Cut this off and you should be left with 6 wires. The colours are above. On mine i have wired like this into the 7 core cable (you can do your wiring how you want)

Pin 1 (Blue) into Blue
Pin 2 (Blue/Orange) into Yellow
Pin 3 (Green) into green
Pin 4 (Green/Yellow) into brown
Pin 5/7 (White/Black) into black
Pin 6 (Red/Blue) into red


Now i need to goto truck and wire from the diff into the truck. I will post updates as i go.