WOF fail parts and advice :( (report to better forum)

[williamhamilton]

WOOPS - reposted due to being in wrong forum

Ok finally got the ute in for a WoF which it failed terribly!! 1999 LN167R Hilux

Some questions in my list below - mainly where to get bits

Left front seatbelt damaged (mmm I hardly see anything) Toyota quoted $475 - where else should/could I be looking?
Excess movement in steering arm idler (sure I can adjust that)
Exhaust leak - while at Toyota just for a laugh I ask for replacement price .... $1460!! - will have to see if it is weldable - if not any muffler place do???
All ball joints worn WTF??? Replacement from BNT <$200 (just) so need to read up on how to replace
Adjust front wheel bearings (they were both replaced about 8 months ago
No this one I am not sure how to fix.. rear break imbalance is L340 R100 and park break was L320 R100 <<-- woops. drums worn or something else likely?

I am assuming after the adjustments a wheel alignment? One of the most expensive WOF checks I have ever had done I can tell you that!

W

[chrome]

time for another beer at your house then william

[williamhamilton]

time for another beer at your house then william

Lol - I hope I am not that handicapped but I am not able to rule it out I better order in a Keg

W

[Lynx]

Adjust front wheel bearings (they were both replaced about 8 months ago

No this one I am not sure how to fix.. rear break imbalance is L340 R100 and park break was L320 R100 <<-- woops. drums worn or something else likely?

Wheel bearings, did you readjust them after a few weeks of driving???

And adjust your brakes so they are even.

Cheers Daniel

[rokhound]

Pay another $40 or what ever it cost and go somewhere else for a WOF!

[Sadam_Husain]

[list]Left front seatbelt damaged (mmm I hardly see anything) Toyota quoted $475 - where else should/could I be looking?

Take the seatbelt out and take it up to pick a part in wingate and you should be able to match it up to something, $18 beats toyotas price

[DieselBoy]

Pay another $40 or what ever it cost and go somewhere else for a WOF!

Ya, thats what I would be doing!!!!!!

[williamhamilton]

Pay another $40 or what ever it cost and go somewhere else for a WOF!

Ya, thats what I would be doing!!!!!!

Lol.. well I have the ball joints bits so it is mostly about swapping parts. Difficult swap out to do?

Exhaust everyone will pickup so I will try plug the hole(s) with weld

Idler arm, no harm is adjusting I am sure

Wheel bearings I did not adjust after the mechanic replaced so should get onto that now i know that I should

seat belt if I cannot see the damage they refer to then I will revisit for WoF somewhere as is

cheers all. off to bed to read my Gregory's Hilux manual lol

W

[DieselBoy]

Swap drivers side seat belt for the passengers side seat belt

[Fakey]

If the seatbelt is frayed on the outside you can carefully burn the frayed bits off with a lighter, or if its damaged the webbing cos its been shut in the door its better to replace it, its there to keep you safe in a crash after all for trucks at work we use wellington vehicle copliance, they charge around $150 fitted I think.
Ball joints are not that easy unless youve had experience takin them out of the taper.
Where did you take it for the wof?

Ps. sorry I didnt get back to you about the soft top last weekend, had friends stayin for the weekend an totally forgot

[Landy Rover]

If the seatbelt is frayed on the outside you can carefully burn the frayed bits off with a lighter, or if its damaged the webbing cos its been shut in the door its better to replace it, its there to keep you safe in a crash after all for trucks at work we use wellington vehicle copliance, they charge around $150 fitted I think.
Ball joints are not that easy unless youve had experience takin them out of the taper.
Where did you take it for the wof?

Ps. sorry I didnt get back to you about the soft top last weekend, had friends stayin for the weekend an totally forgot

Lazy retractor mechanisim is a common failure ie, belt wont retract fully, clock spring gets arthritis, beware of using other sec-hand ones as most suffer the same fate

[pjb]

Ball joints aren't neccessarily too traumatic.

Whip the calipers off and hang them out of the way, pull the cotter pins out and loosen the castle nuts off by several turns. Doesn't hurt to soak with penetrating oil.

Best to separate the top joint first, as I've never been able to get the bottom one off while to top one is on.

To separate: hit the steering knuckle near where the ball-joint joins the knuckle in the direction of removal. Having a BFHammer helps here. A ball-joint splitter can also help here, but a big hammer is usually part of the equation. Eventually the ball joint shaft should release from the knuckle and rest on the loosened castle nut. This is the hard part. Sometimes they can be really tight, and it might be worth re-dosing with oil and leaving it overnight, try again in the morning with a bigger hammer. Try to only hit the knuckle with the hammer. Don't bash on the ball joint shaft.

Support the lower a-arm on a jack, and take the pressure off the bump stops. Remove the top castle nut, and put the ball joint clean out of the knuckle.

Now that the top of the knuckle is free you'll have plenty of space to bash on it to free to bottom joint.

Then it's a matter of unbolting the joints from the a-arms and bolting fresh ones in. The castle nuts don't need much torque - enought to snug the knuckle onto the tapered shaft. Refit fresh cotter pins.

[Fakey]

What he said^^, I just didnt have time to write out the procedure

[williamhamilton]

Holy cow - THANKS GUYS.. maybe I am just that handicapped and will need to buy a keg I will get my overalls on over the weekend and see what I can sort out.

pjb BRILLIANT writeup.. heaps clearer than the workshop manual, they never mentioned BFHammer at all.

fakey- no worries. heading to Tawa this Sunday if you want to try again

W

[williamhamilton]

Not a great start - the bolt holes to pop out the drum are threaded on both sides.. Wanted to check shoes.. got the right one off eventually and looks have have some fluid in it which may be causing it to not work all that well

For the seat belt.. I have attached a couple of pics and full size images avail from My Picassa site

Is this damage enough to expect a WoF fail from? Looks minimal as only a couple of threads imacted (but aware of strength being in groups etc so will replace if safety issue)



I think I will take it to a mechanic for ball joints - hard to be without a vehicle if I screw it up. Being far from public transport makes having a vehicle off the road for more than a day rather complicated I will have to ask if they will let me look over their shoulder so I can learn. lol

cheers

W

[niblik]

yes belt would fail...

[williamhamilton]

yes belt would fail...

Bugger.. better get replaced then

W

[williamhamilton]

yes belt would fail...

Bugger.. better get replaced then

W

Out of ute and heading to Pick-a-part soon. Anyone know of what other vehicles use same seatbelt part as 99 Hilix ute? Any similar year Toyota be a safe'ish bet?

W

[DieselBoy]

That seat belt is a prime candidate for a slight burn off/melt with the ciggy lighter!!!!

Do it carefully and it will be completely gone!!!

[Heath]

That seat belt is a prime candidate for a slight burn off/melt with the ciggy lighter!!!!

Do it carefully and it will be completely gone!!!

X2
but be on the lookout for replacements when they come up for the future. The ciggy method will give you a few more months, but beware that they are damaged and its now not visible.

Put new ones / replacement ones on the "to do" list.