Stronger CV's and Diff Ring gear and Pinion

[SamLogan]

Hey,

I was wondering if anyone has had their cv's strengthened in NZ (I know of a guy in aussie who does them and another guy who blew 6 cv's before he got his ones strengthened and hasn't blown one yet) and how have the performed. Also i have been told that using a stronger ring gear and pinion such as the ones made by Yukon will allow you to run 35's on a 7.5inch IFS diff. Is this true? I know a lot of it comes down to the driving but having stronger cv's and diffs will also help.

Cheers
Sam

[Ralfie]

Brian Howat from Howat Engineering in Wellington is the man to speak to. Has placed outer rings on existing CV's to strengthen them amongst other stuff.

[Jerry]

talk to jafa as well

[SamLogan]

Ok i will try getting in touch with both of them thanks. Will having stronger cv's and diff components help reduce damage from running bigger wheels or just move the problem somewhere else?

Cheers
Sam

[Sadam_Husain]

why are you trying to stay with IFS and not SAS with a solid axle and longfield cv/axles?

[rokhound]

why are you trying to stay with IFS and not SAS with a solid axle and longfield cv/axles?

What he said!!!. Why would you fark about trying to make an IFS rig stronger?
If you are driving it beyond it's limits, then it is time to build a rig that is better suited to you. If you don't know how, then go back to 31's, open diffs,etc and start again.

Don't count on after market R&P's being stronger either, I have blown a Yukon set in 2 trips (although I don't think I set it up right ) Cryo'ed R&P sets seem to be the go, but I would never expect a 7.5" diff to last while spinning anything above 33's

[SamLogan]

Mostly cost. If i was going to do it, i would want to do a coil sprung over leaves just for the on road capabilities as i do a lot more on road driving, and i do not think i am competent enough to do it myself. My welding is ok but i wouldn't trust it and also trying to get the geometry right for the springs and steering. I have been told using an old prado front axle is the easiest in terms of steering. Rick at 4WD Accessories says about $5k drive in drive out and that is also the same as Mike at 4WD Upgrades who i use a lot for any major repairs. It is well beyond my budget where i could get strengthened cvs and stronger diff components for around $1k.

I am not really driving it beyonds its limits as in super rough terrain. I just don't want to be caught our either. I haven't broken anything yet (touch wood). Also I am not wanting to go over 35's so i just want a nice setup for 35's that won't require replacing parts all the time.

Cheers
Sam

[rokhound]

Mostly cost. If i was going to do it, i would want to do a coil sprung over leaves just for the on road capabilities as i do a lot more on road driving, and i do not think i am competent enough to do it myself. My welding is ok but i wouldn't trust it and also trying to get the geometry right for the springs and steering. I have been told using an old prado front axle is the easiest in terms of steering. Rick at 4WD Accessories says about $5k drive in drive out and that is also the same as Mike at 4WD Upgrades who i use a lot for any major repairs. It is well beyond my budget where i could get strengthened cvs and stronger diff components for around $1k.

I am not really driving it beyonds its limits as in super rough terrain. I just don't want to be caught our either. I haven't broken anything yet (touch wood). Also I am not wanting to go over 35's so i just want a nice setup for 35's that won't require replacing parts all the time.

Cheers
Sam

Sweet. So ditch your idea of 35's and stay with 33's and you should be fine.

[SamLogan]

Yeah if i have to i will. I was sort of hoping that maybe it would work if i strengthened everything up a bit. I know some guys running these components in aussie set up like this with some guys even running 37's at times on the 7.5 diff but their conditions are a lot different to here so was wondering if anyone here was running them successfully

Cheers
Sam

[Engineer]

Yeah if i have to i will. I was sort of hoping that maybe it would work if i strengthened everything up a bit. I know some guys running these components in aussie set up like this with some guys even running 37's at times on the 7.5 diff but their conditions are a lot different to here so was wondering if anyone here was running them successfully

Cheers
Sam

why exactly do u want to go to 35s?

even with my sas'd surf if i were to buy new tires again id probably go down to 33s.
35s are a big tire and a nice w*nk factor especially if you dont do alota offroad driving, its a bita hassle to get them to fit nicely - trimming bumpers, adjusting bumpstops, flares, godknows how bigga bodylift (!), i have a 2" BL with 2" susp and moved the beam axle forward 30mm for them to fit! the stress on the diffs and axles, youll chew wheel bearings on like crazy compared to running 33's. personally i cnt see people who run 35-37s on ifs actually going offroad and not blowing these strengthened diffs

new 35" bfg on rims (with spare) $2700
ifs diff bits you say $1000
cert $450
Bodylift price im not sure maybe $60 for enough uhmpe plus labour if you cnt do it urself
$4210 for what u wanna do,
$5000 sas drive in drive out is friken cheap! i woulda payed 5000 for someone else to do mine if someone done them down here..

[SamLogan]

Ah ok. i have the cert for my body lift and suspension already so that isn't a problem. Interesting about down sizing. I think you may have convinced me here as i have been talking to a few clubs and they have a 33' limit so i might stick with the 33's.

Thanks for the advice

Sam

[rangimotors]

If you have a bit of coin to spend and want to go further spend it on lockers. They will make a huge diference to your truck and with 33's and twin lockers it will go well enough to keep you happy until you either decide to spend the 5k or do it cheaper yourself or sell you rig and buy something else. The lockers will allow you to drive things slower crawling up banks instead of thrashing the hell out of it and bouncing down and blowing either your diff or cv's to bits.

People get all afraid about putting a locker in the front of a vechicle with a weak front end but when i had mine it was a hell of alot more reliable when i ran a front locker not to mention far more capable.

I'm sure by now you know the pain of trying your hardest to climb out of a mud hole but cocking one front wheel in the air at the peak of it and rolling backwards even though your foots on the boards. Instead of thrashing shit out of it to gain enough momentum to get up there you will just crawl up as if both wheels were on the ground if you get a locker.

[rokhound]

If you have a bit of coin to spend and want to go further spend it on lockers. They will make a huge diference to your truck and with 33's and twin lockers it will go well enough to keep you happy until you either decide to spend the 5k or do it cheaper yourself or sell you rig and buy something else. The lockers will allow you to drive things slower crawling up banks instead of thrashing the hell out of it and bouncing down and blowing either your diff or cv's to bits.

People get all afraid about putting a locker in the front of a vechicle with a weak front end but when i had mine it was a hell of alot more reliable when i ran a front locker not to mention far more capable.

I'm sure by now you know the pain of trying your hardest to climb out of a mud hole but cocking one front wheel in the air at the peak of it and rolling backwards even though your foots on the boards. Instead of thrashing shit out of it to gain enough momentum to get up there you will just crawl up as if both wheels were on the ground if you get a locker.

That is some of the best advice you will get