So here's the brief team: The old shorty is on its 2nd set of coils now an its time to throw some new ones under it, I'm pretty keen to give those EFS buggers a go, and instead of the usual trial and error thing, I thought I'd put it out there? What I'm lookin for is an honest 4" lift for the front, they will need to handle the weight of an ARB steel winch bar and winch with steel cable (as the current ones don't like it much, 3" has gone to 2" over time) Not to stressed on the rears yet as they are pretty stiff and help the front end flex a bit, and they'r still makin coil spacers Any help on part numbers or spring weights would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Reece.
Cheers for that Flyingbrick, yeah i've had a poke around their site, plenty of candy there! what I was hopeing for is some one running these coils to add their opinion of how they go long term, but will give warren a call an see what he recomends. Cheers for ya help mate.
reeceb wrote:Cheers for that Flyingbrick, yeah i've had a poke around their site, plenty of candy there! what I was hopeing for is some one running these coils to add their opinion of how they go long term, but will give warren a call an see what he recomends. Cheers for ya help mate.
I had the 215lbs(4" front)and they were to soft,changed to the 250lbs which was much better IMO.
Thanks for all ya help guys, I like the sound of the 5" fronts idea, I've been wondering about that concept, kinda makes sence to compensate for the heavy front bar, and could work well with drop boxes and raised towers to try and get that bloody front end to twist up a bit better. Thanks again, cheers Reece.
reeceb wrote:Thanks for all ya help guys, I like the sound of the 5" fronts idea, I've been wondering about that concept, kinda makes sence to compensate for the heavy front bar, and could work well with drop boxes and raised towers to try and get that bloody front end to twist up a bit better. Thanks again, cheers Reece.
I have 5" springs in front and 4" in rear also,minds LWB though.
rear drive shaft angle well be your biggest problem!
220lb/in for the front with a lightweight bar or no winch, 250lb/in for an ARB bar or similar with winch.
200lb/in for the rear if you carry minimal gear, or alot of gear only occasionally. If you carry big loads at times (i.e. towing decent sized boat), progressive rate coils in the rear are the way to go.
I used Cass Jones drop-boxes and they were perfect for correcting castor with the 4" 220lb/in coils.
Lengthen lower rear control arms 16-18mm and brake lines all round.
Yeah, the good old rear drive shaft issues! I've gone longer stronger lowers and panhards and will go adjustable uppers, so i may be able to tweak things a bit to suite, me current 3" coils with gearbox packers have been in for 8 years now with not the faintest hint of vibration, but sure as s--t that extra inch + will throw a spanner in the works, Oh well nothing ventured nothing gained, cheers guys.
Why would you F*** up a truck that works well by going to 4" lift? If you after an increase in performance with it then keep it as low as possible. The higher you take the worse it will climb hills, the worse the side slope will be, the worse the antisquat will get. (mid you GQ AS is pretty bad with near any lift) The only thing 4" gives you is ramp over ability and that is at the sacrific of a lot of many much more important things.
IMHO stay with 3" lift and you'll have a better all round truck.
Nissan Terrano coilovers, turboed VH45, Safari axles, and some other stuff.
darinz wrote:Why would you F*** up a truck that works well by going to 4" lift? If you after an increase in performance with it then keep it as low as possible. The higher you take the worse it will climb hills, the worse the side slope will be, the worse the antisquat will get. (mid you GQ AS is pretty bad with near any lift) The only thing 4" gives you is ramp over ability and that is at the sacrific of a lot of many much more important things.
IMHO stay with 3" lift and you'll have a better all round truck.
my truck has a 5inch spring lift and 2inch body and is fine doing everything people say it wont...even goes places where other trucks tend to lay on there sides, maybe i just drive my truck better than all these so called perfect truck setup that are lower than mine but still end up on there side.
darinz wrote:Why would you F*** up a truck that works well by going to 4" lift? If you after an increase in performance with it then keep it as low as possible. The higher you take the worse it will climb hills, the worse the side slope will be, the worse the antisquat will get. (mid you GQ AS is pretty bad with near any lift) The only thing 4" gives you is ramp over ability and that is at the sacrific of a lot of many much more important things.
IMHO stay with 3" lift and you'll have a better all round truck.
my truck has a 5inch spring lift and 2inch body and is fine doing everything people say it wont...even goes places where other trucks tend to lay on there sides, maybe i just drive my truck better than all these so called perfect truck setup that are lower than mine but still end up on there side.
Can you out drive physics in your LWB? =P
"Anyone who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination." - Oscar Wilde
Work in progress - www.pearls.kiwi
and x2 what Darinz said. Cut the bodywork to suit however big your tyres are otherwise it will kick your cog up without gaining much better performance.
5in susp and 2in body is a rollover waiting to happen.
darinz wrote:Why would you F*** up a truck that works well by going to 4" lift? If you after an increase in performance with it then keep it as low as possible. The higher you take the worse it will climb hills, the worse the side slope will be, the worse the antisquat will get. (mid you GQ AS is pretty bad with near any lift) The only thing 4" gives you is ramp over ability and that is at the sacrific of a lot of many much more important things.
IMHO stay with 3" lift and you'll have a better all round truck.
my truck has a 5inch spring lift and 2inch body and is fine doing everything people say it wont...even goes places where other trucks tend to lay on there sides, maybe i just drive my truck better than all these so called perfect truck setup that are lower than mine but still end up on there side.
Can you out drive physics in your LWB? =P
Its possible. My lifted up 80 on 35's handles better than a fukn evo 8!! I mean its so awesome that greg murphy asked me if he could race it this season. As long as ive secured my load properly of course
I can't believe that someone can seriously claim a truck with a huge lift is more stable than one with a smaller lift? I mean FFS if the COG is high then you have to sacrifice flex to stop body roll or it will fall over.
Performance equals tyres on the ground with weight on them. To achieve this you need the COG to be between the wheels side to side and front to rear. The higher it is the more it moves about due to slopes and the effects of acceleration. As soon as it gets away from the centre of the vehicle then you get weight transfer that reduces the traction of some of the tyres. eg side slopes or hill climbing.
It isn't hard to work out is it???????????
Nissan Terrano coilovers, turboed VH45, Safari axles, and some other stuff.
I ran 4" coils in my SWB without problems. It's obvious that the higher you go, the more unstable the vehicle becomes, but 4" was fine on my shorty for the terrain I was driving.
Yeah I understand the COG thing, ive logged over 2.5 million kms in truck and trailer units and currently work as a heavy transport driving instructor and heavy machinery operator trainer. The set up in my GQ is 3" coils and 30mm spacers, I work on the droop theory for off road performance, and was thinking of going the 4" set up and ditch the coil spacers to hopefully give me a bit more flex and a softer ride, Im not after a truck up in the clouds as the current height dose work quite well, I just wanted to get opinions of spring weights etc. Thanks for the imput guys, it gives me a great short cut to finding the u bute set up