Ive done a 40mm ish suspension lift 50mm body lift on a 87 LWB
At the front you do a ball joint flip and then crank the torsions, but yeah you would not want to go too high as said above. However I think CV breakage has a lot to do with driving style from what I have heard. Mine hasnt taken too much punishment yet.
If you pay someone to do the body lift you are goin to be very poor I reckon as its the kind of job that needs a lot of DIY and little fixes/brackets.
Heres what I had to modify/create:
Radiator drop brackets (better than changing rad hoses as it makes the fan in the right place)
Seatbelt retention bar extention brackets
Cut a bit out of the floor for the gearstick to get 2/4/R and make a custom gear stick boot, also had to cut the gear stick off and weld it on a different angle
I put new heater hoses on cause the old ones were crunchy, and as they were new they slid on well and could be fitted in a way that didnt kink (they are not cheap though as genuine items - hard to make you own due to extreme angle bends)
If you want the standard bumpers you will have to make lift brackets for them - I threw out the rear one and have a winch bar at the front which a fabrication mate of mine made lift brackets for (which would be worth a bit)
The steering shaft dosent need extending for a 50mm lift, there is enough room for movement
Brake hoses and lines should be fine
Wiring loom should be fine I just had to cut a few cable ties
Hand brake cable well thats easy as to adjust
As for price my body lift kit cost $180 and a lot of my time.
I picked up some rear lift shackles second hand for $50, and the front lift costs nothing (actually you just have to get a wheel alignment afterwards so thats $60). I did have to replace all the rear suspension bushes which cost about $50 too. It took a lot less time.
Lets see what they quote you on the body lift
