Diff breathers, to extend or not to extend.
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- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: Amberley / North Canterbury
Diff breathers, to extend or not to extend.
Hi guys,
I'm quite new to this 4wding scene, two weeks ago I bought my 1st "real" 4wd (an 84 hilux surf). I have talked to heaps of people about diff/transfer/gearbox etc. breathers and I still don't know what I should do. I have people telling me two different things:
1. If the factory valve is working (moves when you pull it up and down) then don't extend it, as the hot diff hits the cold water of a river the diff cools quickly, creating a vacuum and closing the valve, so no water gets in the diff oil. Nothing to worry about, but if you do put a hose off the top of your diff to a place up high on the body work then it is easy for that hose to get snagged on a branch/treeroot etc. and pull the hose right off, meaning the next time you go in a river the diff will suck in heaps of cold water, R*#TING your diff.
2. The valve on the diff is unreliable, it can jam open, leaving your diff exposed. Even when working properly it still sucks in a small amount of water, eventually R*#TING your diff. You should extend all the breathers with flexible pipe to a point high up on the bodywork. Stories of pipes being snagged off by tree roots are urban myths.
So there you have it, My diff is F#@KED either way.
I'm just going to add that among regular joes, I have also had two mechanics tell me differing opinions.
So if any of you hard out offroaders would like to put me (and other newbies I'm sure) straight on this matter it would be much appreciated.
I'm quite new to this 4wding scene, two weeks ago I bought my 1st "real" 4wd (an 84 hilux surf). I have talked to heaps of people about diff/transfer/gearbox etc. breathers and I still don't know what I should do. I have people telling me two different things:
1. If the factory valve is working (moves when you pull it up and down) then don't extend it, as the hot diff hits the cold water of a river the diff cools quickly, creating a vacuum and closing the valve, so no water gets in the diff oil. Nothing to worry about, but if you do put a hose off the top of your diff to a place up high on the body work then it is easy for that hose to get snagged on a branch/treeroot etc. and pull the hose right off, meaning the next time you go in a river the diff will suck in heaps of cold water, R*#TING your diff.
2. The valve on the diff is unreliable, it can jam open, leaving your diff exposed. Even when working properly it still sucks in a small amount of water, eventually R*#TING your diff. You should extend all the breathers with flexible pipe to a point high up on the bodywork. Stories of pipes being snagged off by tree roots are urban myths.
So there you have it, My diff is F#@KED either way.
I'm just going to add that among regular joes, I have also had two mechanics tell me differing opinions.
So if any of you hard out offroaders would like to put me (and other newbies I'm sure) straight on this matter it would be much appreciated.
Last edited by gomulletgo on Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Sadam_Husain
- Angry bird
- Posts: 5164
- Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: WELLINGTON
Get rid of the factory valves.
Even IF they work correctly, think about it this way, there is a vaccum that is trying to suck air, so if the valve is closed, its just going to try to suck the water in, and it will, whether its from around the valve, or filler plug etc.
If you run a hose, the cooling of the diff will get air from up in the engine bay, so much less chance of it taking in water ie its easier for the diff to get air than it is to get water through plugs etc.
Use hose, run it into the engine bay, and mount against the firewall, with a small fuel filter on the end to keep dirt/dust out, and cable tie it along the top of the chassis rails so it can't snag.
I use clear hose so I can see if there has been any sign of water etc in it.
My 2c worth
Even IF they work correctly, think about it this way, there is a vaccum that is trying to suck air, so if the valve is closed, its just going to try to suck the water in, and it will, whether its from around the valve, or filler plug etc.
If you run a hose, the cooling of the diff will get air from up in the engine bay, so much less chance of it taking in water ie its easier for the diff to get air than it is to get water through plugs etc.
Use hose, run it into the engine bay, and mount against the firewall, with a small fuel filter on the end to keep dirt/dust out, and cable tie it along the top of the chassis rails so it can't snag.
I use clear hose so I can see if there has been any sign of water etc in it.
My 2c worth
Try going 1 step further guys.
Mine run to a common manifold under the bonnet, which is then pressurised with air to 5psi. Your average oil seal is rated to 7-9psi.
Hence your diffs, gearbox, and transfer(s) are pressurised. The water can't get in, even if it wants too.
Even if the air pressure is too much for the seals, water can't get in if air is getting out thru the same opening. Of course this MAY mean your seals will leak oil when the pressure is released.
Never had a problem with mine though.
Mine run to a common manifold under the bonnet, which is then pressurised with air to 5psi. Your average oil seal is rated to 7-9psi.
Hence your diffs, gearbox, and transfer(s) are pressurised. The water can't get in, even if it wants too.
Even if the air pressure is too much for the seals, water can't get in if air is getting out thru the same opening. Of course this MAY mean your seals will leak oil when the pressure is released.
Never had a problem with mine though.
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
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- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: Amberley / North Canterbury
Just an update, I've decided to go with this approach
for now. first sign of water and I'll go the clear hoses route.
so I've checked my front and rear diffs (apparantly morris lubricants). front the oil is blue looking, but the rear is a blackish/green colour, it seemed to have little air bubbles in it.
What I would like to know is: when diff oil gets water in it does it go all brown, thick and sludgey looking like engine oil does when you blow the head gasket?
MULLET
I've had trucks with and without diff breather extensions and I still end up with water in the diffs if I've been in deep crossings
Pays to just keep checking the oil whatever you do?
for now. first sign of water and I'll go the clear hoses route.
so I've checked my front and rear diffs (apparantly morris lubricants). front the oil is blue looking, but the rear is a blackish/green colour, it seemed to have little air bubbles in it.
What I would like to know is: when diff oil gets water in it does it go all brown, thick and sludgey looking like engine oil does when you blow the head gasket?
MULLET

Mullet , Yes. and once you have got water in it's hard to get rid of. Don't bother trying to flush them out, just drain and fill with new oil. My diff's have lasted for years with the oil looking a bit sludgy. As long as most of the water is drained and the vehicle doesn't sit for to long with out being used.
FITZY.
FITZY.
Just to add to the confusion
What if you have a factory air locker , how does this all work. Is the diff air tight ? to begin with
Do you still require breathers?
My old cherokee had breathers but still filled up with every river crossing, came in through the wheel bearings so what is the point
Just check the oil regular like I say
, works for me thus far. Oil is cheap. Just my 2c worth

What if you have a factory air locker , how does this all work. Is the diff air tight ? to begin with


Do you still require breathers?
My old cherokee had breathers but still filled up with every river crossing, came in through the wheel bearings so what is the point

Just check the oil regular like I say


- mroffroader
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 2330
- Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: Lower Hutt WELLINGTON :D
- Contact:
albundy wrote:Go even further drll a hole thru the firewall and feed t through there. Only way to do it for sure knowing the water won't get in. All mine run back into the cab.
Al
Don't you get a diff oil smell in the cab?
I like the clear hose plan

Meths works well to get rid of the water but the mud's not so nice on the fuel filter. Or injectors and carb jets.
- billyvanboheman
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 513
- Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch
mroffroader wrote:mercutio wrote:i don't need to bother putting diff breathers in as mercedes have done it for me![]()
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i'm not that biased honest![]()
same here suzuki vitara came standard with extended diff breathers.......i say sell the hiklux and buy a zook....its already done
My Isuzu has an extended front diff breather that goes into the engine bay, and a rear diff breather that is factory with extension hose up under body with breather hood mounted high. I plan to extend that one into the engine bay at some stage but I gather Mr Isuzu intended his 4WD's to do the deep water thing and survive.
Interesting that it seems not all manufacturers had the same intentions.
1989 LWB Isuzu Bighorn, Intercooled 4JB1T, Ball Joint flip, Torsion bar wind, 3 inch stainless homebuilt snorkel,1/2 done electric fan mod,front sway bar quick disconnects, 15x8 ROH White Spokes,33x12.5x15 Hankooks.