Hi all
Slow progress on Bob (The Rangie), so no updates. On another matter, those that have lifted there vehicles, have you had trouble with UJ angles etc or have they handled it alright??. Ive heard the S II Disco front driveshaft bolts into the S I front end (this has a Double universal on it) but they arent the cheapest. Im thinking for both my Disco and the Classic
cheers
Rex
Landy/Rangie lift question
Yep the Disco II shaft will bolt in but you have to change the flange on one end to fit the earlier disco and rangie [not hard].
You won't need it unless you are planning a decent spring lift....
You can lift 2" generally without any vibration problems in you DS.
How much did you want to lift by?
I have a 3" spring and 2" Body lift which is heaps - I can fit 35's with no problem [I have cut the guards].
I have a small amount of vibration in the UJ's front and rear but nothing major. I also have more bump steer as the castor has gone negative - again this is manageable - but if you are a purist you would want to look into cranked radius and trailing arms to restore your pinion angles and redrilled swivel balls to get castor back. And yes you can use disco DS's or an after market like Scorpion who do wide angle UJ's to get rid of any vibes you had [might work out cheaper than Disco ones].
You won't need it unless you are planning a decent spring lift....
You can lift 2" generally without any vibration problems in you DS.
How much did you want to lift by?
I have a 3" spring and 2" Body lift which is heaps - I can fit 35's with no problem [I have cut the guards].
I have a small amount of vibration in the UJ's front and rear but nothing major. I also have more bump steer as the castor has gone negative - again this is manageable - but if you are a purist you would want to look into cranked radius and trailing arms to restore your pinion angles and redrilled swivel balls to get castor back. And yes you can use disco DS's or an after market like Scorpion who do wide angle UJ's to get rid of any vibes you had [might work out cheaper than Disco ones].
The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off.http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/
I've got a 2" spring lift which just keeps the castor angle in the positive (just!!!!) and don't have a problem with the UJ's.
Looking at the front diff, and thinking about it,
If you put in a castor correction kit (off set bushes) this will bring the diff back to level which will increase the fwd UJ angle.
This may cause problems.
Rat
Looking at the front diff, and thinking about it,
If you put in a castor correction kit (off set bushes) this will bring the diff back to level which will increase the fwd UJ angle.
This may cause problems.
Rat
I would be a little wary of the correction bushes - I haven't heard a single good story about them...
As they work by offsetting the center of the bush - what actually happens is that you reduced the sidewall of the bush which stiffens up articulation to that side. The axle is then fighting the bush and the axle wins. This means that the bush flogs out really quickly.
Its cheap though
As they work by offsetting the center of the bush - what actually happens is that you reduced the sidewall of the bush which stiffens up articulation to that side. The axle is then fighting the bush and the axle wins. This means that the bush flogs out really quickly.
Its cheap though
The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off.http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/
Castor correction bushes are stiffer, I drilled the urethane out in mine to make them softer. I just drilled them top and bottom to make them softer in articulation and retain the stiffness in the forward/backwards plane. I could bin the swaybar on my zuk after fitting the correction bushes. The old rubber originals are the best if you can live with the castor problems. A return-to-centre steering stabilser is another option. I'm getting some brackets fabbed up to put one on mine.
I'd go back to rubber bushes if it were easy, I had to vandalise the originals to get them out.
Lester
96 Suzuki Samurai with three link suspension and coils all round
I'd go back to rubber bushes if it were easy, I had to vandalise the originals to get them out.
Lester
96 Suzuki Samurai with three link suspension and coils all round
Right 
Only planning a 2 inch lift on Bob. Present plan is to cut guards back to the same height as the inner guards - shouldnt need a body lift then (33"tyres at this stage).
How bad is the bump steer?? Only know what Ive read off the the "twooffroad"side. Fairly good explaination, but as you say if its going to be pretty much an offroad truck only, why bother. Cross that bridge when it comes I guess.....
The series body conversion on Bob is looking more and more attractive with the amount of rust I keep uncovering
cheers
Rex
74 Rangie Project (Bob)
91 Disco V8
83 Zuk SJ410 GTi
Only planning a 2 inch lift on Bob. Present plan is to cut guards back to the same height as the inner guards - shouldnt need a body lift then (33"tyres at this stage).
How bad is the bump steer?? Only know what Ive read off the the "twooffroad"side. Fairly good explaination, but as you say if its going to be pretty much an offroad truck only, why bother. Cross that bridge when it comes I guess.....
The series body conversion on Bob is looking more and more attractive with the amount of rust I keep uncovering
cheers
Rex
74 Rangie Project (Bob)
91 Disco V8
83 Zuk SJ410 GTi
Go body lift first
I personally think body lift is the way to go. My rangie is still stockish sprung with 40mm body lift and have no issues with vibes, castor etc but have plenty of clearance for the tyres. Although they are a bit more work i think its the way to go.
Just my 2c worth
Kevin
Just my 2c worth
Kevin