LVVTA brake test method ?

[Big]

Hello all, been trolling the lvvta site for info regarding brakes etc and cannot find anything regarding the test procedure..? does anyone know how the do it or what they do for cert, as I have swapped my sf drum setup for a ff with discs out and I havent changed the MS andf from what nI can gather it should be sweet but I'd like to know how to test it so I get it right for cert..
from the brake lvvta doco

"Particular points within this standard:

Brake testing
The cyclic brake-test only applies now to low volume vehicles that have had modifications that
directly or indirectly affects the braking system. If a vehicle is being certified to the LVV Code,
but is not modified in a way that could affect the brakes, such as the addition of seats and
seatbelt anchorages, the only brake test to be applied is a one-off test at 0.5G. In this case, the
test doesn’t have to be an average G-reading, therefore the test can be carried out with a Tapley
meter, or rolling road. 2.4(3) covers the new test requirements for everything else.

Modifications not requiring certification
Section 4, as in all Low Volume Vehicle Standards, identifies those common modifications
(related to the standard in question) that are not required to be certified. In the case
LVVTA Information Sheet 10-2000 Issue A 23 November 2000
Page 2 of 4
of this standard, direct replacement after-market disc rotors (such as DBA, included slotted and
drilled units) on their own are not required to be certified, provided the requirements detailed in
the relevant clause are met. The often-confused subject of which engine swaps do and don’t
have to be certified is also detailed in this section.
It’s worth making yourself familiar with this section in each standard – we’re trying to provide
answers to a lot of the commonly asked “…does my car have to be certified if…?” questions
within this section."

This was from the lvvta site . Im a little stuck.. unless I dont have to be so worried..lol

cheers

[Sadam_Husain]

technically your still standard factory brakes on your 80 series chassis coz there was either option drum on the SF and disc on the FF so nothings been modified so it shouldnt need certifying

[Big]

technically your still standard factory brakes on your 80 series chassis coz there was either option drum on the SF and disc on the FF so nothings been modified so it shouldnt need certifying

Thats the way im reading it.. but I just wanted to be sure if I needed to make some suttle changes to be ready.. Just wanting to cover all options.. but the doco reads like you have discribed it.. mmm

[slide]

Hello all, been trolling the lvvta site for info regarding brakes etc and cannot find anything regarding the test procedure..? does anyone know how the do it or what they do for cert, as I have swapped my sf drum setup for a ff with discs out and I havent changed the MS andf from what nI can gather it should be sweet but I'd like to know how to test it so I get it right for cert..
from the brake lvvta doco

HUH?? Bit hard to decode there...
Guessing, however, that you've changed from drum brake to disc?
Which would require cert.
But, if you've got bits off another of the same type of vehicle and they're a full bolt on, then how would anyone know?
Sure if a hilux went in for a wof with discs on the back it'd get spotted as they never had them, but 80 series L/C? Are they not all disc rears? Would take a toyota nut to know the differences there

[Crash bandicoot]

here is an example.....

a 1992 holden rodeo has drum brake rear.

a 1992 Isuzu MU has disc brake rear,

The both employ the same drive line 2.8 turbo 5 speed manual 4wd same diffs just a longer rear drive shaft on the rodeo.

There is nothing stopping you from putting the MU rear disc brakes on the Rodeo's rear axle as they are the same family of mechanical components.

This example does not require certification.

For the actual brake test, for my Rb30det powered hilux the brake upgrade was hand in hand as the standard hilux brakes would never have pulled up the vehicle safley and in a timely fashion.

The brake test consisted of

jacking up the vehicle and visually inspecting the new brake components to ensure they were secure and at full suspension travel and articulation that the brake lines were not stretched or squeezed.

taking the vehicle up to 50 kph with no hands on the steering then stopping. this was to check for even braking between the wheels.

followed by 3x 100 kph and then stopping vigorously. this to check not only for performance but also for brake fade.

[slide]

here is an example.....

a 1992 holden rodeo has drum brake rear.

a 1992 Isuzu MU has disc brake rear,

The both employ the same drive line 2.8 turbo 5 speed manual 4wd same diffs just a longer rear drive shaft on the rodeo.

There is nothing stopping you from putting the MU rear disc brakes on the Rodeo's rear axle as they are the same family of mechanical components.

This example does not require certification.

Thats a good example of what I was meaning.
However it DOES require certification , just its unlikely to be noticed by wof inspector, thus you're very unlikely to actually failed wof (which is why you get cert?)

From the VIRM

36. A modification affects a brake or braking performance, and:

a) is not excluded from the requirements for LVV specialist certification (Table 8-1-1), and

b) is missing proof of LVV specialist certification, ie:

i. the vehicle is not fitted with a valid low volume vehicle certification plate, or

ii. the operator is not able to produce a valid modification declaration or authority card.

As brake swap is not excluded, then clause b) applies -cert required.

Just letting you know. Make your own call
Nath

[Crash bandicoot]

here is an example.....

a 1992 holden rodeo has drum brake rear.

a 1992 Isuzu MU has disc brake rear,

The both employ the same drive line 2.8 turbo 5 speed manual 4wd same diffs just a longer rear drive shaft on the rodeo.

There is nothing stopping you from putting the MU rear disc brakes on the Rodeo's rear axle as they are the same family of mechanical components.

This example does not require certification.

Thats a good example of what I was meaning.
However it DOES require certification , just its unlikely to be noticed by wof inspector, thus you're very unlikely to actually failed wof (which is why you get cert?)

From the VIRM

36. A modification affects a brake or braking performance, and:

a) is not excluded from the requirements for LVV specialist certification (Table 8-1-1), and

b) is missing proof of LVV specialist certification, ie:

i. the vehicle is not fitted with a valid low volume vehicle certification plate, or

ii. the operator is not able to produce a valid modification declaration or authority card.

As brake swap is not excluded, then clause b) applies -cert required.

Just letting you know. Make your own call
Nath

the certifier didn't have an issue with the disc brakes on my rodeo, this is why i have posted it for you to "clarify" the issue.

here is an example of a brake upgrade requiring a certification.

for example. A sister owns a toyota hilux RN56 2wd. she has asked her brother to install a 1jz and 5 speed manual from a toyota supra.

The brakes on a RN56 are clearly insufficient so her brother suggests fitting the rotors and calipers from the toyota supra to the front stub axles of her RN56.

Even though the brakes are both provided on toyota models, the particular brake setup was not part of the same family of mechanical components in the hilux range.

This will require certification

[Fakey]

Big if I remember correctly you haven't had your truck certed yet at all? Or did I miss it in your build thread?
If its certed it should say disc fr drum rr either on the plate or in the paperwork so it would need to be changed on the plate,
If its not certed at all the certified will do a brake test because of the engine conversion more than anything else, an it will need to stop 5 times from 100k under 4.7seconds. This was the only issue I had when I tried to cert mine last year, don't think it's changed much since then

[Big]

Big if I remember correctly you haven't had your truck certed yet at all?
it will need to stop 5 times from 100k under 4.7seconds. This was the only issue I had when I tried to cert mine last year, don't think it's changed much since then

Right on Fakey, not cert'd yet but was wanting the info for the test procedure so I can go out and check to make sure it is right in all aspects but again I have only swapped 80's gear with 80's gear and my main concern was I have a proportioning valve bolted to the MC and correct me if im wrong( can happen ) all FF setups with discs have a LSPV and mine is a non PV.. I took it off last night to have a look at the possibility of adjusting it but appon further investigation came up with all that is needed my my PV setup was actually more pedal.. so as I have changed to new rotors and pads.. they are a little soft shall we say so need to road test and break them in.. oitherwise I'll remove my PV and install another adjustable one to make it just right.. but seeing as it's all factory I'm hoping not to change it and it should be sweet..
I'm in to skippers for our last club meeting next wed and I'm goin to take it in for a run and do a side mission up the tiger track ( night run ) so should be a blast..
Will report back my findings so others can see what can be done..
BTW I think the SF rear end I have is scarce as rockin horse shyt so the oppertunity came up to swap it for a FF setup so went for it.. oh and it has a LSD as well..cheap upgrade locker in front later and that'll be that.. until next mod..lol
Cheers for input but as you can see.. many variables can happen and make for an interesting debate about the rules..