Safari LWB Y60 set up

[Ant]

In the market for a LWB Saf. I've searched for lift ideas and have got a pretty good idea of what i want, but would like any input, any LWB owners out there?

Most people are saying that 2" is max lift for SWB before having to use drop brackets and castor corrections etc etc... however i have also heard that LWB can be lifted up to 3" without the need for all the extras.

I may be able to get some 60mm lift springs at a decent price and have 33's to fill the space. No need to be lifting any higher than this at this stage as i want to keep center of gravity as low as possible and should not be a problem getting WOFs.

Im told it wont be long until i want to upgrade to 35s and more lift and chopping guards, but I guess ill cross that bridge...

So, how does your ride feel once lifted that 2-3"? and will I be needing more than just Springs and shocks for 60mm lift on a LWB?

Most of this will be a first for me so any info will be appreciated as I step into the world of Nissan. Sorry Toyota guys its nothing personal, just need something big and the equivalent 80series is twice the price. Speaking of which i've heard of people using the 80 series LC springs to lift SWB saf's can it be done on LWB and how much lift will it give? this would definitely make the bank manager happy.

[DieselBoy]

Longer shocks
Relocated or if you prefer, longer brake lines
Caster correction in the front
Adjustable top, or longer lower rear arms to keep pinion angle correct
Bump stop extensions front and rear
Sway bar linkage extentions
Springs

Be carefull with what springs you choose. Quite often, to achieve the lift all the spring manufacturer does is increase the spring rate, which means the truck becomes stiff, doesn't articulate we'll and rides hard.

Find the spring that's as close to the factory rate for your desired height increase.

I'm a big fan of retaining the factory tuned suspension, and using spring spacers to achieve the lift. Keeps your ride quality and the suspension balanced correctly between front and rear.

That said, if your fitting bars, roof rack, winch, two spare wheels, carrying heaps of gear and loading her up beyond what the factory intended like the ozzies do for outback touring, you will need the spring rate upgrade.

That's my opinion at least

[Ant]

Ahh yes, spring rate....probably a whole new topic i guess. How is it measured? and how do i know what the factory spring rate is? I will be adding winch and bar later on and probably rear and side bar in the near future. no point of doing a lift without getting more articulation.

[Suza]

In my LWB Safari I went for a 50mm lift and 33's (could fit the 33's on standard height suspension). The height that you need is all determined on what you want to do.
I have found that 50mm lift made no difference to handling. I lifted my with Cobra HD 50mm lift springs, I went with HD springs cause when I go away I am more often than not fully loaded (5-6 people, full multi day camping gear carried in a full sized roof basket)
with the 50mm lift you wont need to do much except that make sure your shocks are long enough (most aftermarket shocks should be) and extend the mount of the front diff for the brake lines, this is easy done with a small strip of sheet metal

Is your safari a non turboed TD42 or a Turboed? If its not turboed I wouldn't go bigger than 33's with out changing the diff ratios.
In my Safari on the standard 4.1 diff ratios 33's create bit of a gap between 2nd and 3rdI have found (my is non turboed but have also driven a turboed on with the same diff ratios and found the same thing)
I am sure that some one will disagree though

[Ant]

Thanks Suzza, i will get prices for 50mm springs too.
I havent got one yet but have put an offer on a manual high roof model non turbo. really like how the manual 4.2 drives, but wont be getting 35s for quite a while......i hope.

Do you know if the manual models have a different diff ratio to the auto models? i will check the VIN plate when i see it, what numbers will i be looking for?

[Suza]

Hi Ant. yep mine is a manual. I have no issues with it being non turbo and regularly tow heavy loads (1.5-2 tone) from town to home (100km with vertical of 750m at the highest point)
If however you expect it to have acceleration like a petrol car or modern ute you may be disappointed, towing 3ton home from town end of last year for example took an extra 15mins.
Most of them came out factory with 4.1 diffs. The 4.8's mainly came out in the sprint model which only had a 2.8 diesel.

[Dirtydog]

Most of them came out factory with 4.1 diffs. The 4.8's mainly came out in the sprint model which only had a 2.8 diesel.

i thought the spirit only had 4.625's?

If your looking at lowering the ratio theres plenty of places that do aftermarket nowadays, try 4wd bits or aussie sites. either 4.625s or 4.88s are around, 4.625's are cheaper by 400 aus dollars for some reason cant figure out why.

[crazyclark31]

I have a lwb low roof auto and am running 33s and a 60mm lift . Have no issues with the handling. Have found that it doesn't seem to affect the lwb as much as the shortys when only lifting 2in.
I'm running 80 series front springs and shocks with 60mm lift hd cobras in the rear. Like suza only have hds as pretty much always have gear for 4 people and 2 big(45kg each) dogs in the boot. Other wise i would deffinatly just run std lift springs.
In saying that the rears still flex up really well and do make the front work better.
The crusier shocks in the front do need extended towers or the will bottom out before hitting the bump stops. The valveing is the same as a safari shock and the springs (not sure about the rate) work really well. Pick front springs and shock up off t/m for $30delivered and the got the rears new for$200 through bnt.
Only thing with the cruiser springs is it kind pot luck in the condition of them. Have had 3 sets before i found a set i was happy with.
And it will fit 33s easyily with a small lift and 35s should only need a little nip and tuck to fit. Extending bump stops will help.

[Ant]

awesome guys, Thanks for the help.
just picked one last night.
Manual, high roof, 220km on the clock and in way to good condition but that will soon change...
Just ordered in a set of springs and shocks ready for the weekend. might chuck some pics when im done.

[Waddles]

just to add a q to you lads im looking at getting 60mm cobras in my swb safari are they any good? and will it need much more work than 50mm lift?

[Suza]

Not.sure but.in a.swb.you may need.castor corection bushs

[crazyclark31]

Nope. Just fit them and go. Depending on condtion of your universals you my get some vibration but nothing else. You could fit castor correction bushes but they limit flex and from what've heard dont lasr very long. Never had issues with my shorty when i had it. Was running 33s which helps.
Have got cobras in my lwb and so far have found them real good. Have only had them 4mths so time will tell. For 200 bucks a set reckon a good buy

[DieselBoy]

Some of you guys need to think about what you are saying

Considering a LWB has EXACTLY the same suspension componentry as a SWB, i.e the radius arms are the same length in the front, and the control arms are the same in the rear, if you need to fit caster correction bushes to a SWB for a 2" lift, then it would effect a LWB just the same and you would need top fit the same bushes.

Same goes for the rear end. Due to the longer drive shaft in the LWB you might not get the drive line vibes as you do in the SWB, but as the control arms are exactly the same length in both the LWB and SWB, its going to put the pinion flange out of alignment with the gearbox output just the same.

Opinion again

[DaveM]

Luckily the longer driveshaft seems to cancel out the vibes on a LWB (in my case anyway).
Still, I will fit longer lower trailing arms in the near future anyway (I prefer to get rid of the weak low arms, rather than fit adjustable uppers).

[crazyclark31]

Was saying you only seem to get driveline vibes in a shorty when lifting 2in. I have found that with a 2in lift with 33s on a safari castor correction isn't nessersary as haven't noticed any adverse affect on the handling. As for rear arms unless your strengthening the arms there is no real need to lengthen them. IMHO you only need to change the castor/arm length if your anal about things being perfect.
Again that's my opinion.

[tafftunk]

I have a lwb Saf non turbo, I have the 60mm cobra HD springs and 35s i still get massive travel i just cut the guards front and rear, Also i have the rear quarter chop and get only just a very small rub on the rubber flare not the guard at the rear. Im very happy at how it travels on and off road.Hope this helps

[Waddles]

Sweet cheers how longer shocks did you put in?

[Ant]

Tafftunk - Thanks thats exactly what i went for (without the choping and 35's) just with 33's. Awesome ride doesnt seem to effect steering at all. Put them in with KYB extended shocks this weekend, done 200kms on road and all good so far, still needs a propper test though.

[Ant]

Before and after

[tafftunk]

I Just used the standard shocks till funds permit me to get extended new ones,but flexs pretty good and have tested it out im pretty happy on how it has turned out on a budget lol

[gary_in_nz]

i know my shorty with 50mm springs was all over the road from 80kmh-100kmh then i installed the castor corrections and handling went back to near enough how it was. with the shorty drive vibs a cheap way was to space the gearbox cross member down 10-12mm.

I have also seen some huge spacers on a couple trucks but they were 75 -100 mm lift, must have massive strain on the engine mounts.

If you do get the bug bad and need 35' tyres just throw a 50mm body lift in with the 50mm spring lift then it will be pretty set to go.