Has anyone replaced the inner CV boots on a Nissan Terrano WD21, TD27, 1995 Model or similar? I noticed yesterday that they were ripped and have ordered a new set. Any help in what to do ie removal of axles, etc and what to look out for as I am doing the work over easter would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers Allan
Replacing CV boots on Nissan Terrano
Block the rear wheels and jack up the front of the vehicle and put it on stands, remove the wheel on the side in question. I suggest removing the wheel from the other side too tho you don't have too. Put the Transmission in neutral and the T-case in 4high....You'll need to slip from 2 to 4 high at different times to lock the driveshaft while accessing and loosening or tightening the CV/Diff bolts.
Remove the five bolts attaching the axle to the diff. An air wrench or air ratchet with a long extension makes things nice and easy. You're not going for high torque so I just used a regular 8" extension to reach in there. Be ready to use a strap wrench to turn the front driveshaft so the diff flange rotates to allow access to all the bolts.
Remove the free wheeling hub and remove the snap ring holding the axle inside the wheel hub.
Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the front of the knuckle.
Remove the disk brake caliper and wire it up out of the way.
Carefully use a jack to lift and support the lower control arm, keeping an eye on the nearside jackstand to be safe. Unbolt the four bolts securing the upper A-Arm to the ball joint and wire it up out of the way too.
Use your hand to turn the steering knuckle to the right as far as it'll go (for removing passengers axle, turn left to remove the drivers side axle) and rotate the wheel hub out and down towards the front. Work the axle out along the chassis towards the rear. At this point you will likely end up determining the shock has to be removed as well, do so if required. There is only about 25mm of clearance but there IS room to wriggle it out. Use a jack to raise or lower the lower control arm and wheel hub if needed.
Make sure that the spacer came out with the old axle, it’s a copper alloy washer that goes over the outer end of the shaft and rides against the back of the wheel hub.
The rest is straight forward as far as replacing the boots go.
To get the boots off, you have to pop the end cap of the inner CV, the end cap that goes against the diff flange. Do not prise it of, just bump the joint against he bench with the cap facing up, so the joint is pushing it off from the inside. You'll see what i mean when you get in there.
Once you have access to the back of the joint, you can remove the circlip holding the ball section of the joint to the axel shaft, and with a rubber mallet, persuade the ball section to slide off the splines. Mine was very tight, needed alot of persuasion.
You ca slide the outer boot off now. The outer joint does not come apart readily, pack it as best you can.
A tip for using those steel clips the boots come with:
Hold the joint in the vice, place the clip so it is wrapped round the joint only once and threadit through the clasp bit.
Attach vice grips to the lose end of the clip tightly and pull on it for all you are worth, whan its as tight as yo0u can get it, keep the pressure on and bend it back over the clasp so it kind of hooks its self there, keeping the pressure on still, pick up a hammer and knock the lock tabs down and flatten the clasp arangement. It ain't going know where now!!! Cut the loose and off to tidy it up.
The installation is a reverse of the above.
Enjoy,
Pete.
Remove the five bolts attaching the axle to the diff. An air wrench or air ratchet with a long extension makes things nice and easy. You're not going for high torque so I just used a regular 8" extension to reach in there. Be ready to use a strap wrench to turn the front driveshaft so the diff flange rotates to allow access to all the bolts.
Remove the free wheeling hub and remove the snap ring holding the axle inside the wheel hub.
Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the front of the knuckle.
Remove the disk brake caliper and wire it up out of the way.
Carefully use a jack to lift and support the lower control arm, keeping an eye on the nearside jackstand to be safe. Unbolt the four bolts securing the upper A-Arm to the ball joint and wire it up out of the way too.
Use your hand to turn the steering knuckle to the right as far as it'll go (for removing passengers axle, turn left to remove the drivers side axle) and rotate the wheel hub out and down towards the front. Work the axle out along the chassis towards the rear. At this point you will likely end up determining the shock has to be removed as well, do so if required. There is only about 25mm of clearance but there IS room to wriggle it out. Use a jack to raise or lower the lower control arm and wheel hub if needed.
Make sure that the spacer came out with the old axle, it’s a copper alloy washer that goes over the outer end of the shaft and rides against the back of the wheel hub.
The rest is straight forward as far as replacing the boots go.
To get the boots off, you have to pop the end cap of the inner CV, the end cap that goes against the diff flange. Do not prise it of, just bump the joint against he bench with the cap facing up, so the joint is pushing it off from the inside. You'll see what i mean when you get in there.
Once you have access to the back of the joint, you can remove the circlip holding the ball section of the joint to the axel shaft, and with a rubber mallet, persuade the ball section to slide off the splines. Mine was very tight, needed alot of persuasion.
You ca slide the outer boot off now. The outer joint does not come apart readily, pack it as best you can.
A tip for using those steel clips the boots come with:
Hold the joint in the vice, place the clip so it is wrapped round the joint only once and threadit through the clasp bit.
Attach vice grips to the lose end of the clip tightly and pull on it for all you are worth, whan its as tight as yo0u can get it, keep the pressure on and bend it back over the clasp so it kind of hooks its self there, keeping the pressure on still, pick up a hammer and knock the lock tabs down and flatten the clasp arangement. It ain't going know where now!!! Cut the loose and off to tidy it up.
The installation is a reverse of the above.
Enjoy,
Pete.
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
Thanks Pete
Thanks for the info. Was pretty much as I expected, although had hoped that the half shaft would slide out of the inner CV somehow. A couple more Questions:
How much grease do you need to pack into the joint when reassembling?
I also have a Lada Niva( don't laugh) and the CV's on that are protected by a plastic shroud. They look like the bottom of a large diameter can with the half shaft and boot going through the bottom. Do you know of anywhere that might sell a similar product for the Nissans?
Sounds like this will keep me out of mischief for most of the Easter break.
Will keep you posted.
Cheers
Allan
PS: Do you still have those Rims?
How much grease do you need to pack into the joint when reassembling?
I also have a Lada Niva( don't laugh) and the CV's on that are protected by a plastic shroud. They look like the bottom of a large diameter can with the half shaft and boot going through the bottom. Do you know of anywhere that might sell a similar product for the Nissans?
Sounds like this will keep me out of mischief for most of the Easter break.
Will keep you posted.
Cheers
Allan
PS: Do you still have those Rims?
If replacing cv boots, I'd seriously consider spending a little more on Meca Tech ones.
These are A LOT stronger than standard, and well worth the money.
http://www.mecatech.com/soufflet_en.htm
Dave
These are A LOT stronger than standard, and well worth the money.
http://www.mecatech.com/soufflet_en.htm
Dave