Removing Cone Washers - Help

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:03 pm

Right, Have been slowly strippnig some rusty old 60 Series diffs.

I've taken the drums off the rear and can spin hubs now (Diff head is LSD :twisted:

Sweet). Have been trying to remove the axels but can`t get the farken cone washers off!!!

!!!

!

The Manual says to use a chisel or screwdriver, split them at the gap and they will come out - THEY DONT!

I`m getting a little frustrated so would appreciate it if anyone out there has some sugestions on how to get these b@stards out.

Just so you know what im talking about they are in the below diagram - 3rd from the right.

Cheers,

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:31 pm

have you tried hitting the end of the axle with a large hammer without damaging the studs in the process

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:02 pm

I've tried hitting it with a dumpy hammer.

I`ll have a go with the sledge hammer and let you know :twisted:

Cheers.

SMOKEY · Post by **SMOKEY** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:13 pm

My procedure is , soak with penetrating oil, make up a drift that will fit over studs and make contact with cones ( the internal hole must be deeper than the length of the studs). Give the drift a heavy hit with a hammer, you are trying to bounce the cones out. If they still won't move grind a small taper on a pin punch and use it as a wedge in the slot of the cone.
Or you could try the old mechanical Joke :wink:

GET A PENCIL AND DRAW THEM OUT, :lol:

.

FITZY

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:32 pm

Nice.

Think I just needed some inspiration cause I got em out - thanks guys.

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:39 pm

the way to do it mnc is to hit the housing beside the cone washers with a mallet, gently to mild styles, to 'squeeze' the cone washers out.. they ping out pretty good so be prepared for it..

:wink:

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:58 pm

Cheers Nib,

Yip I took the hammer to them. Also found that if you put the screw driver in the washer slot on an angle and try to turn them around they freed up too.

All out now and Axels out to.

Ready to take the LSD head into diff shop and test how warn it is. I couldn`t spin one hub while holding the other and turning the diff head so am hoping its still got pleanty of life in it

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:00 pm

gonna get it shimmed up nice and tight?

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:05 pm

Yip, I'm going with 110lbs as no one else seams to be able to recommend a better figure.

Its going in the front and will put my lokka in the rear :twisted:

.

Going to do the SOA to - your build inspired me.

I want some big tyres now too - wish I'd bought those Gound Hawgs off Trademe now :cry:

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:06 pm

yeah baby.. big tyres.... :twisted:

cool...

we'll be in ca-hootz with our builds..

yeee - hawwwwwwwww :!:

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:09 pm

I started thinking crazy thoughts the other day like - lets get this truck up to WOF standard - then my sensible side came back :lol:

I`m going to get those front spring mount made up to for the 60 series diffs. Makes alot of snese although one enginer scared me with some allignment horror stories :shock:

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:31 pm

MNC wrote:I started thinking crazy thoughts the other day like - lets get this truck up to WOF standard - then my sensible side came back

I`m going to get those front spring mount made up to for the 60 series diffs. Makes alot of snese although one enginer scared me with some allignment horror stories

did all mine by eyeometer and allignment was sweet as(had a bit of toe out but everything else was so close it was like factory

), and i havent cut and turned my knuckles as i diddnt need to as the 60 series has a bit of turn on the front anyway :wink:

cool eh

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:59 pm

A standard 9.25" diff has about 85lbs per foot breakaway.
This is when you use a touque wrench on one axle, the other axle is held in a vice.
Breakaway is the force it takes to start the axle moving.

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:08 pm

Also, the Toyota book says to use a brass rod or drift , and place it on the end of stud and hit with a hammer 2 or 3 times till the collets come lose.
works for me every time.

Don't hit the side of the hub, as it bruse's the hub face, and the gaskett can't seal properly.