Ok so I have my axles out to change wheel bearings and removed diff head to inspect while all the sticky stuff was drained.
I have used diff oil from a mates place previous but really need to get my own.
I know from reading previous posts that there has been some discussion between GL4 and GL5 rated oils
It is a 96 LN107 with lockright lokka. Did the gearbox about 12 months ago and stayed with GL4 after reading the forums, should I go the same way with the diff.
Also what grade would guys n gals recommend.
gl5 for diffs. no brass in them. gl4 is for boxes with brass syncro's.
75-90 i think for those diffs. easy to check on most lube web sites.
however i run 85-140 to keep it quiet. but it depends on use. if its running fairly cold due to low speed water crossing etc, then stick with the 90's.
if your doing a lot of open road speed driving then the 140 might be more suited.
The book for mine (I think we have the same rear diff) says API GL5 with an SAE rating of 80W or multi-grade 80W-90 at temps below 18 deg and SAE 90W at temps above 18 deg. The maintenance schedule says replace every 40 thousand K's.
Super Cheap Auto currently has Castrol EPX 80W-90 4 Litre packs on special for $36. That worked for me and my rear diff ...
There's never any single, ideal viscosity as the operating environment of the oil is never constant. Like Tweake said if you do a lot of open road driving there'd be some pros to using 85W-140. I'd be wondering about the demands having the lokka might place on the diff oil... I'd think the way it operates would place a lot of shear force on the oil when it's doing it's ratchety thing... Hang on, nope: just googled their faq and they say "Q18. Do I need to use special oil? No. Any recommended differential oil is OK to use including LSD oil and differential additives such as teflon treatments etc."
tweake wrote:gl5 for diffs. no brass in them. gl4 is for boxes with brass syncro's.
75-90 i think for those diffs. easy to check on most lube web sites.
however i run 85-140 to keep it quiet. but it depends on use. if its running fairly cold due to low speed water crossing etc, then stick with the 90's.
if your doing a lot of open road speed driving then the 140 might be more suited.
Very sound advice.. it is what I have ended up doing due to failures.. Think of when your truck was manufactured.. then look at the oils that were available at the time.. as in 20 odd years oils are now more geared to modern trucks as apposed to our older types and the tolerances that our trucks have compared to modern are quite different.
tweake wrote:gl5 for diffs. no brass in them. gl4 is for boxes with brass syncro's.
75-90 i think for those diffs. easy to check on most lube web sites.
however i run 85-140 to keep it quiet. but it depends on use. if its running fairly cold due to low speed water crossing etc, then stick with the 90's.
if your doing a lot of open road speed driving then the 140 might be more suited.
Very sound advice.. it is what I have ended up doing due to failures.. Think of when your truck was manufactured.. then look at the oils that were available at the time.. as in 20 odd years oils are now more geared to modern trucks as apposed to our older types and the tolerances that our trucks have compared to modern are quite different.
i don't think diffs have changed all that much.
lubes have improved so i think you can extend the diff oil changes.
the big thing thats has changed over the years is higher powered engines. most of those old diffs only had gutless engines pushing them. modern ones have got double the power.
tweake wrote:gl5 for diffs. no brass in them. gl4 is for boxes with brass syncro's.
75-90 i think for those diffs. easy to check on most lube web sites.
however i run 85-140 to keep it quiet. but it depends on use. if its running fairly cold due to low speed water crossing etc, then stick with the 90's.
if your doing a lot of open road speed driving then the 140 might be more suited.
Very sound advice.. it is what I have ended up doing due to failures.. Think of when your truck was manufactured.. then look at the oils that were available at the time.. as in 20 odd years oils are now more geared to modern trucks as apposed to our older types and the tolerances that our trucks have compared to modern are quite different.
i don't think diffs have changed all that much.
lubes have improved so i think you can extend the diff oil changes.
the big thing that's has changed over the years is higher powered engines. most of those old diffs only had gutless engines pushing them. modern ones have got double the power.
I was generally referring to the oil additives.. modern oils have better cleaning agents compared to older type oils but yes you are correct things have changed considerably but if you do use the wrong oil , it will make things wear out even quicker.. then failure follows if not picked up quickly, example.. I recently.. like before mainland winch challenge series last year stripped and made sure my xfer was in peak order.. On taking my new xfer which has the lower gearset, when removing my old one ( used correct oil there gl4) the casing was wearing out and the brass coating on the thrust washer was all but gone.. Now was this due to too much power ? or weaker xfer ? or wrong oil ? wrong tolerances ? I made sure things were perfect when assembled before hand so I can only guess some of the above or one of the above caused the failure.. or even the case flexing a little caused it ( causing the thrust washer to close the locking tab then start to spin).. I do not know and most likely wont.. But I can only hope my new old xfer will work and not fail.. ( has bigger idler shaft) I'm even thinking of getting the right oil from Toyota for it.. just to be curtain. But there is a lot of something that has happened and I cant really work it out. If someone has something to add that I have missed then I'm listening as I do not want a failure of this xfer..
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but if you do use the wrong oil , it will make things wear out even quicker.. then failure follows if not picked up quickly, example.. I recently.. like before mainland winch challenge series last year stripped and made sure my xfer was in peak order.. On taking my new xfer which has the lower gearset, when removing my old one ( used correct oil there gl4) the casing was wearing out and the brass coating on the thrust washer was all but gone.. Now was this due to too much power ? or weaker xfer ? or wrong oil ? wrong tolerances ? I made sure things were perfect when assembled before hand so I can only guess some of the above or one of the above caused the failure.. or even the case flexing a little caused it ( causing the thrust washer to close the locking tab then start to spin).. I do not know and most likely wont.. But I can only hope my new old xfer will work and not fail.. ( has bigger idler shaft) I'm even thinking of getting the right oil from Toyota for it.. just to be curtain. But there is a lot of something that has happened and I cant really work it out. If someone has something to add that I have missed then I'm listening as I do not want a failure of this xfer..
