I'm looking at getting a compressor, and hard wiring it, but as I run 24v, what is the best way to do this, as I'm assuming they would draw a fairly high current, so the average reducer won't cope.
I would eventually look at some sort of reservoir too, what would be a practical size, and what would be best to use?
Cheers,
Dave
Compressor mounting/wiring
I am doing exactly that, though mine is a 12v unit in a 12v truck.
I am hard wiring it directly to the battery with a relay in between to switch it on/off from inside the cab. The compressor would be living in the engine bay. An air tank will come later (I will have to move a few things to make space for the air tank). I have been told a 2 gallon tank (approx 10l) would be a good size, but any other ideas would be good.
Reading up on things, the compressor at full load should be drawing 30A and has an inline fuse.
I am hard wiring it directly to the battery with a relay in between to switch it on/off from inside the cab. The compressor would be living in the engine bay. An air tank will come later (I will have to move a few things to make space for the air tank). I have been told a 2 gallon tank (approx 10l) would be a good size, but any other ideas would be good.
Reading up on things, the compressor at full load should be drawing 30A and has an inline fuse.
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safari_mulisha
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 334
- Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: hamilton...under a safari
I am converting an AC pump.
I have pretty much everything I need except a couple of barb fittings and a couple of reducers to plumb the tanks in and do final fitting and testing.
I am going to mount the tanks where I used to put the spare wheel. I have wired into the AC button on the dash to switch a relay to activate the AC compressor clutch.
I have an inline oiler off a feed from the airbox. Have a manifold setup which I need to mount on the inner guard, it's fitted with a regulator/filter, blow off valve, gauge and uses a quick disconnect fitting for a line to the rear tanks. This way if something happens to the tanks or line I can run without them by just disconnecting the line.
Only thing holding me back at the moment is mounting the AC compressor. The Lexus motor has the oil filter housing just below the compressor. On my Surf to replace the filter I need to unbolt the housing from the block as the filter can't spin off the housing before hitting the frame. Once the compressor is mounted I won't be able to unbolt the housing
I am contemplating a remote filter option. There is a guy on trademe, philspeed I think who can do kits for about $300 with 3m of quality line. It's not aeroquip fittings and braided line but it's still high enough quality.
My other option is to grind the bracket lip on the frame that the filter hits. The filter nearly comes off so I don't need to take much. It appears to be part of the steering idler arm mounting bracketry but it's on the inside of the frame.
There are two ridges/lips, would it be safe to grind away half of one of the lips? I would need to remove the housing and filter to be able to remove the offending part of the lip.
Sorry for the thread hijack. I can take a pic of the area and post if I am not explaining this well.
Cheers
Matt.
I have pretty much everything I need except a couple of barb fittings and a couple of reducers to plumb the tanks in and do final fitting and testing.
I am going to mount the tanks where I used to put the spare wheel. I have wired into the AC button on the dash to switch a relay to activate the AC compressor clutch.
I have an inline oiler off a feed from the airbox. Have a manifold setup which I need to mount on the inner guard, it's fitted with a regulator/filter, blow off valve, gauge and uses a quick disconnect fitting for a line to the rear tanks. This way if something happens to the tanks or line I can run without them by just disconnecting the line.
Only thing holding me back at the moment is mounting the AC compressor. The Lexus motor has the oil filter housing just below the compressor. On my Surf to replace the filter I need to unbolt the housing from the block as the filter can't spin off the housing before hitting the frame. Once the compressor is mounted I won't be able to unbolt the housing
I am contemplating a remote filter option. There is a guy on trademe, philspeed I think who can do kits for about $300 with 3m of quality line. It's not aeroquip fittings and braided line but it's still high enough quality.
My other option is to grind the bracket lip on the frame that the filter hits. The filter nearly comes off so I don't need to take much. It appears to be part of the steering idler arm mounting bracketry but it's on the inside of the frame.
There are two ridges/lips, would it be safe to grind away half of one of the lips? I would need to remove the housing and filter to be able to remove the offending part of the lip.
Sorry for the thread hijack. I can take a pic of the area and post if I am not explaining this well.
Cheers
Matt.
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mudlva
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 2918
- Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:00 pm
- Location: fixing another cv!! dam lockers (Papakura)
re your ac pump
hi there i have had two differant motors and used the existing ac pumps for air i found two major problems
1 any oiling system that i used pumped the oil start through and into my hose line, end result oil inside of my tubes. the glue on the puncture repair patches didnt like that
2 the pump inself can get very hot and blow the rubber hose off the pump fitting i got around this by useing reinforced braided hose but on a real hard day with booth lockers in and out continueously even then the heat started affecting the house.
at the moment im in the middle of designing a system where the air can be feed thruogh a cooling pipe before the rubber hose is attached
1 any oiling system that i used pumped the oil start through and into my hose line, end result oil inside of my tubes. the glue on the puncture repair patches didnt like that
2 the pump inself can get very hot and blow the rubber hose off the pump fitting i got around this by useing reinforced braided hose but on a real hard day with booth lockers in and out continueously even then the heat started affecting the house.
at the moment im in the middle of designing a system where the air can be feed thruogh a cooling pipe before the rubber hose is attached
