Shock absorber angles

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NJV6
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Shock absorber angles

Post by NJV6 »

If (hypothetically of course :wink: ) I was to change about my rear shock mounts are there any rules of thumb to get them to work properly as to straight up & down, forward slant (Range Rover), sideways like a GQ etc etc.

Reason I am asking is currently the lower mounts can only take a small diameter shock otherwise this happens on full compression.

Image

Or would I be better putting a spacer on the bumpstop to prevent as much up travel :idea:

And pin to eye, eye to pin, eye to eye or pin or pin.......? Aim is for articulation within the limitations of a 3 link rear.
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Steve_t647
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Post by Steve_t647 »

OK A shock absorber is most efficent when the action is at 90 degreese to the movement the more angle the less movement in the shock, that being said vertical shocks limit travel especially when you want to lift your 4wd.

This can be worked around by getting a firmer shock or adjustable shock and mounting them on an angle.

As for what direction is better forward back in or out (yes you can mount the shocks to the middle of the diff but they really dont work there they are working on the body that way) you need to look at where you have room and can balance it on the other side, the best position to attach the shock to the diff is at its most outside point practical, as for the top this is a best fit situation but if the mounts are on the back of the diff when the diff goes up the shock top mount has to be out of its way (don't place the shock where it will cross over the diff I am sure everyone figured this one out but thought I better put something here :oops: )

My preference is to go for a slightly / \ style but I have one shock mounted on the front going forward and one shock on the back going back (matching distances and geometery) on the back and vertical on the front :D

Also be carefull with mounting shocks there is an up and down to them if mounted upside down most will deteriorate really quickly and remember when you jack up the corner of you rig to get compression you are only picking up essentially that one corner or maybe up to 30% vehicle weight, when going down hill like you can encounter up to 85 to 95% of the weight of your rig, allow for this in travel compression this is usualy when the bump stops met and 85 - 95% of the weight of your truck on a shock mount usually ends up in a bad way.

Good luck and post after pic's so we can comment on your welding :P and shock positioning :lol:
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TJ
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Post by TJ »

To me it seems more like a case of shock being too long, rather than the slant its at. If you have put longer shocks and not adjusted your bumpstop, compression will normally do wonders to shock life.

Have you measured how much travel you have in your suspension when compressed and what compressed length of the shock is. That would be the starting point for me.
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NJV6
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Post by NJV6 »

Thanks guys. They are a standard length shock (factory replacement rancho). The vehicle is lifted about an inch I think (has sagged a little)

I have not measured the compressed length But when flexed up the bump stop is kissing bump...

The factory KYB's are not so wide in diameter at the bottom so don't hit the arm. The problem I think doesn't come from the up travel, more so from the down travel putting more of an angle on the axle. (Rancho has about 1/2 inch longer extended length)

I have some new springs to put in so will get measuements - flex up without shocks until springs fall out or arms bind up then get a shock to suit. Having an angle / \ makes most sense as far as getting travel is concerned, moving through the arc. Currently mine are \ / .

O and I can't weld to save myself - never tried to be honest :oops: .
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Steve_t647
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Post by Steve_t647 »

I think he was meaning the dent in the shock where the arm hit it :shock:

pulling the top of the shock in like I prefer gets around this as the higher up you go (articulation) the more the angle pulls them away from the arm.

Or you could grind the offending arm back with an angle grinder but I would not recommend that :wink:
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NJV6
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Post by NJV6 »

NJV6 wrote:I have some new springs to put in so will get measuements - flex up without shocks until springs fall out or arms bind up


O yea, or until I pull my handbrake cables out.... They are just a touch short. I do have some LWB ones lying around that are just too long!
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Post by NJV6 »

OK so on Sunday I got fed up with my old bench so built a new one.
Image

And now I just built my ramp out of the old bench... :) so tomorrow evening I can get some measurements...

Image
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TJ
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Post by TJ »

They sell shock relocation kit for lower mounts for Jeeps to avoid hitting lower spring perch. I will try finding a picture, may be you fab a pair.
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Smurf
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Post by Smurf »

Try moving your shock to the inside of your mount.
Put a crush tube in where your shock presently sits.
Use a longer bolt and a large washer or two to attach your shock.
I was looking at trying this in the front of my Surf to move the bottom of the shock back, as with Hilux rear springs in the front it moves the diff forward 60(?)mm and puts te shock mounts out of alignment.
Hopefully this pic shows what I mean.

black lines - existing shock mount
red - shock
green - crush tube
blue - new bolt and washer
Image
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TJ
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Post by TJ »

This is the link:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16191_500.htm

Very easy to install and move the shock about 2 inches away and 1 inch up out of the way.

I am sure you can fab something to suit your application.
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NJV6
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Post by NJV6 »

Cheers guys - Interesting concepts. Smurf your idea is good but with the pin arrangement at the top it'd put it on an even greater angle....

NJ
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Post by Smurf »

NJV6 wrote:Cheers guys - Interesting concepts. Smurf your idea is good but with the pin arrangement at the top it'd put it on an even greater angle....

NJ


Rubber bushes on the top pin should give you plenty of movement to allow it to work. .
Not an ideal fix but would be a cheap make do type fix perhaps
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SupraLux
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Post by SupraLux »

Steves reply summed up the tech side well, and Smurfs idea would be ideal as a quick fix. I've got my Dads Paj sitting in the drive at the moment so I might go lie under it tomorrow if I get time and have a think about it...

Steve
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Post by NJV6 »

After all that, measuring and what not, I couldn't get it to drive up the ramp any further without the shocks on leading me to decide the bushes are binding at the same time as the shock max's out....

When changing springs and using force I chould get alot more out of them - there was still a good 10cm travel before the springs fell out.

I guess without changing things drastically thats the end of that theory!
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SupraLux
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Post by SupraLux »

Try taking one of the bolts out of the arm where it joins the axle tube (the rear setup in a paj uses radius arms similar to the Range Rover, Patrol and 80-series LC fronts). Removing one bolt allows more movement on both sides...

Steve
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