The time has come to plan diff upgrades for my rangie. The diesel is now working like it should, it has traction issues on damp tarseal in second gear.
I've currently got 10spline standard stuff front and rear. Looking to upgrade the rear to a locker and probably ashcroft axles, unless someone has a better idea.
Front will be done at a later date.
ARB is the first one that comes to mind, but no-ones website lists a price. Where are the best deals to be found and what other lockers are recommended?
Best Diff Deal.
NJV6 wrote:HI, have you considered jac mac's or Maxi's when you get the axles, drive flanges & locker? To go with ashcroft crownwheel & pinion? Costly but it'll give you are v strong reliable setup.....
Last time I priced an ARB was $1750
I like what I've seen of the maxi-drive, but the driveflanges sticking out of the wheels is something I'd rather avoid. I haven't heard much of the jac-macs other than the owner being hard to deal with.
Ha Ha Ditto Jac Mac.
I wouldn't be buying the 10 spline ARB. If you are spending the money on an ARB, spend a little more and upgrade to a 24 spline with some manufactured axles.
Toyota centres with the Jac mac axles which he makes to suit the 5 stud...?
I don't see the drive flanges being a problem.... ?
I wouldn't be buying the 10 spline ARB. If you are spending the money on an ARB, spend a little more and upgrade to a 24 spline with some manufactured axles.
Toyota centres with the Jac mac axles which he makes to suit the 5 stud...?
I don't see the drive flanges being a problem.... ?
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods 
Lockers and Ashcroft axles are nice but incredibly expensive.
The easiest and possibly cheapest upgrade has to be fitting a Salisbury out of a 110 in the rear. It bolts in, will only cost about $400 and is almost indestructible. The only modification you need to make is replacing the drum brakes with the discs of your Range Rover. The brackets to mount the calipers are standard Land Rover items and can be bought from any Land Rover parts dealer. No certification necessary either as you are using all standard Land Rover gear. The only downside is a loss of about 20 or 25 mm of ground clearance as the diff head is much larger. (but the head could be shaved if this is an issue)
This is all I have done and have no more issues breaking diffs or axles. With the stronger diff in the rear there is not as much of a need to upgrade the one in the front. If there was I would have blown my front diff ages ago, the rear diff takes the majority of the abuse going up hills etc.
Doesn't fix traction issues but if you have a diesel which can light the tyres on damp tarmac in a permanent 4x4 but at the same time not break the very weak 10 spline diffs, I suspect there is a possibility there are other issues such as keeping the tyres in firm contact with terra firma, soft or worn shocks for example.
You wouldn't use the locker on tarseal anyway. If it is more traction you are after on the street there are some very nice limited slip diffs available from this crowd:
http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/diffs.html#trutracs
Another option is fitting Hilux diff centres in the Rover axle housings. This is what Jack McNamara does to get lockers, LSD's, electric lockers etc. in Rover axles. It is not hard to do but does require custom axles. Advantage is large choice of ratios, easy availability, good ground clearance and you are keeping the standard axle housings. Again no certification required.
Yet another option is fitting a Nissan Patrol axle in the front and LandCruiser 80 or 100 series in the rear. More work, certification required and loss of ground clearance over standard Rover diffs.
The easiest and possibly cheapest upgrade has to be fitting a Salisbury out of a 110 in the rear. It bolts in, will only cost about $400 and is almost indestructible. The only modification you need to make is replacing the drum brakes with the discs of your Range Rover. The brackets to mount the calipers are standard Land Rover items and can be bought from any Land Rover parts dealer. No certification necessary either as you are using all standard Land Rover gear. The only downside is a loss of about 20 or 25 mm of ground clearance as the diff head is much larger. (but the head could be shaved if this is an issue)
This is all I have done and have no more issues breaking diffs or axles. With the stronger diff in the rear there is not as much of a need to upgrade the one in the front. If there was I would have blown my front diff ages ago, the rear diff takes the majority of the abuse going up hills etc.
Doesn't fix traction issues but if you have a diesel which can light the tyres on damp tarmac in a permanent 4x4 but at the same time not break the very weak 10 spline diffs, I suspect there is a possibility there are other issues such as keeping the tyres in firm contact with terra firma, soft or worn shocks for example.
You wouldn't use the locker on tarseal anyway. If it is more traction you are after on the street there are some very nice limited slip diffs available from this crowd:
http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/diffs.html#trutracs
Another option is fitting Hilux diff centres in the Rover axle housings. This is what Jack McNamara does to get lockers, LSD's, electric lockers etc. in Rover axles. It is not hard to do but does require custom axles. Advantage is large choice of ratios, easy availability, good ground clearance and you are keeping the standard axle housings. Again no certification required.
Yet another option is fitting a Nissan Patrol axle in the front and LandCruiser 80 or 100 series in the rear. More work, certification required and loss of ground clearance over standard Rover diffs.
1992 Land Rover Discovery V8i, 5 speed, 12000lbs winch, Salisbury rear, 110 front, 65mm spring lift, dents in every panel, Rallywoods pinstriping.
Ok no worries,
I have only had experience with ARB when talking manual lockers and it is all good. When they are installed by someone who knows what they are doing they are basically trouble free. When not installed properly it can lead to trouble with oil leaking into compressor.
I have only had experience with ARB when talking manual lockers and it is all good. When they are installed by someone who knows what they are doing they are basically trouble free. When not installed properly it can lead to trouble with oil leaking into compressor.
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods
Thanks for the advice so far.
My main resistance to the salisbury is that I also want lockers and I'd like to keep commonaility front to back.
The traction in the wet isn't a problem (it's great fun), just a symptom of how much torque this thing currently dishes out.
Current shocks etc are all in good order and adjusted suitably (koni). Obviously the driveshaft torque lifting one tyre is helping out a lot.
Ashcroft have measured the breaking torque and strain, it's quite interesting.
http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/BILLI ... 0GRAPH.pdf
http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/BILLI ... 0GRAPH.pdf
The 4000Nm for a 10spline works out about 1000kg driving force at the tyre. But their unbreakable axles are only double that.
I want to keep my 3.54 ratio which rules out hilux, landcruiser and patrol parts.
My main resistance to the salisbury is that I also want lockers and I'd like to keep commonaility front to back.
The traction in the wet isn't a problem (it's great fun), just a symptom of how much torque this thing currently dishes out.
Current shocks etc are all in good order and adjusted suitably (koni). Obviously the driveshaft torque lifting one tyre is helping out a lot.
Ashcroft have measured the breaking torque and strain, it's quite interesting.
http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/BILLI ... 0GRAPH.pdf
http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/BILLI ... 0GRAPH.pdf
The 4000Nm for a 10spline works out about 1000kg driving force at the tyre. But their unbreakable axles are only double that.
I want to keep my 3.54 ratio which rules out hilux, landcruiser and patrol parts.
Last edited by KiwiBacon on Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The 4000Nm for a 10spline is bugger all, works out about 150kg driving force at the tyre. But their unbreakable axles are only double that
I think you have a calculation error here.
4000Nm is approx 400kgm
If you have 35" tyre it has a radius of 444mm.
So for a torque of 400kgm you will have a driving force of about 900kg at the surface of the tyre.
Tim
suzolla wrote:The 4000Nm for a 10spline is bugger all, works out about 150kg driving force at the tyre. But their unbreakable axles are only double that
I think you have a calculation error here.
4000Nm is approx 400kgm
If you have 35" tyre it has a radius of 444mm.
So for a torque of 400kgm you will have a driving force of about 900kg at the surface of the tyre.
Tim
Yeah I did. Unfortunately you noticed before I got a chance to edit it.
Should be 10,500N drive force (per wheel), just over 1 ton for my wheels.
gonfellon wrote:truetrack front diff, detriot locker rear or 4pinion lsd toyota carriers front and back diffs r good 4 them.good to have weak point i.e drive shaft.its all on how heavy footed you are no good making diffs bullet proof then drivechains will brake which are harder to fixs in the bush
I'd much prefer switchable lockers than LSD's, I feel there are situations where being completely unlocked is far better. Particularly on ice/snow and tight turns on hard ground.
I plan to have traction as the weakest point in the drivetrain, with the stockish size wheels I'm running it's not going to be a problem. I'm not rough and haven't broken any drivetrain parts yet, but torque is planned to double from what it was previously.
lsd's have a bios affect normally 3-1 ratio so 1 wheel turns 3 rotations when loss of traction and the other will turn once.In snow ,ice and hard ground . tyres that havent got much traction shouldn't be a problem.if you go for arb lets us know how you get on .lot of people that put them in brake the 10 or 24 splines carries as they are the same as a standard diff in unlocked. they end up putting toyota carriers and drive shafts in and have no probs ..(with 35" plus tyres)arbs are worth alot to throw away when you brake them..good luck
gonfellon wrote:lsd's have a bios affect normally 3-1 ratio so 1 wheel turns 3 rotations when loss of traction and the other will turn once.In snow ,ice and hard ground . tyres that havent got much traction shouldn't be a problem.if you go for arb lets us know how you get on .lot of people that put them in brake the 10 or 24 splines carries as they are the same as a standard diff in unlocked. they end up putting toyota carriers and drive shafts in and have no probs ..(with 35" plus tyres)arbs are worth alot to throw away when you brake them..good luck
Do you know anyone with an ARB in a broken carrier they'd like to sell?
A mate has a spare carrier already drilled for an ARB.
Who sells maxidrive in this country?