sound like a good idea we can advise , what they burn is their problem,
sorry can't find any photos of the big stuff , to busy building it
there have been times to weld thin sheet to build up something to weld you just pull the trigger to the fist arc then stop don't hold it to get an arc running just first arc flash then shut dow need to do it fair few times but steel will buld from this tec till you have enough to hold a full arc
Mig Welder options
WOW!
With all these hints n tips, I can hardly contain myself from running out and getting a new Mig now!
I have to remember I have to wait till I have somewhere (shed) for it first.........
In the meantime, keep it up guys.
With all these hints n tips, I can hardly contain myself from running out and getting a new Mig now!
I have to remember I have to wait till I have somewhere (shed) for it first.........
In the meantime, keep it up guys.
Ok people, move along. Nothing to see here. Thank you, move along.
Ph 0212078472
Ph 0212078472
I'm all for a tech thread... I still pic up things when I outsorce work love wondering round some of the bigger shops in town 
A couple of tips
keep your eyes out for specials at Blackwoods or BOC and make a jig to spin it off the big roll to your 1kg or 5kg roll, and there is a difference between cheap wire and wire from Weldwell, Lincoln or BOC brand
If welding thick to thin angle your tip towards the thick and just wick the weld pool onto the thin lets you run more heat without burning holes in the thin
There is two ways of moving the weld "push or pull"
pushing the pool, where your tip is over the weld and you are pushing it forward will give you less penitration but a widder, flatter weld, good for thinner stuff and presntation welds
pulling the pool, where your tip is infront of the weld and is pionting back down the weld will give you better penitration but a narrower and more peaked weld
Hey and Steve your not the only one who has that dream
I work off the floor or impromptu benches project chassi's are a good one 
to have space
Cheers Reece
A couple of tips
not bad for little spools but I get 15kg rolls for around $36Got wire from Independent Welding Supplies, 1kg spool for about $30
keep your eyes out for specials at Blackwoods or BOC and make a jig to spin it off the big roll to your 1kg or 5kg roll, and there is a difference between cheap wire and wire from Weldwell, Lincoln or BOC brand
If welding thick to thin angle your tip towards the thick and just wick the weld pool onto the thin lets you run more heat without burning holes in the thin
There is two ways of moving the weld "push or pull"
pushing the pool, where your tip is over the weld and you are pushing it forward will give you less penitration but a widder, flatter weld, good for thinner stuff and presntation welds
pulling the pool, where your tip is infront of the weld and is pionting back down the weld will give you better penitration but a narrower and more peaked weld
Hey and Steve your not the only one who has that dream
I work off the floor or impromptu benches project chassi's are a good one to have space
Cheers Reece
http://www.issa.co.nz/Gallery.html
the boss hasn't updated this site but shows off a few things.
the boss hasn't updated this site but shows off a few things.
rambo end
it welded on to another 8 meters of pipe has a fork hoist twin fork mount on the other end , it was used to rake the dross off molten aluminium, the in side of the furnace was 10 x 8 metres has a 1metre of molten ali in it was 750 dec c hot that blade lasted 2weeks max then we build another an fit it in an hour or so they could dross off again, the plate size is 1230x750
Last edited by coxsy on Thu May 03, 2007 7:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
oldblue wrote:To keep your cost down, as I have, being a hobby welder, ex welder boilermaker,Ive got a 50 cf dive bottle then fitted it with a CO2 valve Tap.
No hire charges on the bottle each month, and about $25 to $30 to fill.
where abouts do you get it filled? wat is the cost? and what mix?
toymota thats stock standard.
The certifier was being a bit overly cautous.... but it is understandable, that is a pretty drastic mod..
So long as your vehicale isn't intended for commercial or bus passanger transport, modifications to the structure are a visual inspection of the welds and assessment of structural integretty.... since most certifiers arn't engineers and there is a discretionary element they must stick there name too (and be held accountable if something were to go wrong
) they will require more than is stated in the code
The only thing you arn't allowed to weld and this applies even to certified welders is steering componets below the the steering box
If you are planing something like this get a relationship going with your certifier, keep them in the loop.... hell every time I do something new I take pics in to mine, I discuse things before I do em (how strong the original is, what I'm going to do/add to retain/improve on that strength, hell if it helps bring in some test pieces you've done)
Afterall these guys have to stick there name to your work
Cheers Reece
So long as your vehicale isn't intended for commercial or bus passanger transport, modifications to the structure are a visual inspection of the welds and assessment of structural integretty.... since most certifiers arn't engineers and there is a discretionary element they must stick there name too (and be held accountable if something were to go wrong
) they will require more than is stated in the code
The only thing you arn't allowed to weld and this applies even to certified welders is steering componets below the the steering box
If you are planing something like this get a relationship going with your certifier, keep them in the loop.... hell every time I do something new I take pics in to mine, I discuse things before I do em (how strong the original is, what I'm going to do/add to retain/improve on that strength, hell if it helps bring in some test pieces you've done)
Afterall these guys have to stick there name to your work
Cheers Reece