bj40 build...

[niblik]

have you had the rim centres moved back a lot?

ding ding ding... yeah.. thats the one..

[SMOKEY]

Nibz, everyone is trying to encourage you to "KEEP IT UP", don't they realise that if it wasn't up so much you would have more time to work on your vehicle and more money to spend on goodies.

,

FITZY.

[rokhound]

Nibz, everyone is trying to encourage you to "KEEP IT UP", don't they realise that if it wasn't up so much you would have more time to work on your vehicle and more money to spend on goodies.

,

FITZY.

Frakin gold!

[petefj40]

Nibz, everyone is trying to encourage you to "KEEP IT UP", don't they realise that if it wasn't up so much you would have more time to work on your vehicle and more money to spend on goodies.

,

FITZY.

So one would think coz he's gettin so much done on the 40 these days something else isn't getting so much attention.
I find it hard to type the next bit but.
Maybe that isn't so much of a bad thing nibs?

[niblik]

hey fitzy.. shhhh or.............

hey rok, tell ya mrs to stop callin and mitch to stop callin me dad..

and no no mr pete..

put both those things together..

love you all rong time..

[petefj40]

[niblik]

been gettin my head round the whole way to create some coilovers..

thus it began..

standard shock end was like this but if ya peek in a tad, you'll notice the couple of tig welds hold on a washer and the metal bush surround...


lookin a bit weak, zipped that off.. then proceeded to drill and tap a thread to take a heim joint to replace it...


also had some steel tube with an internal diameter of 5mm less than the shocks main body outer diameter. then machined in a taper at the bottom of the tubes inner to sleeve the shock and be retained by this taper end piece. then put a square thread onto outer of sleeve..
thread..


fitting..


then began the next segment.. began with this alloy..


and then made this top hat for the coil to seat in.. the heim is able to go through the tophat and thread into the shocks shaft.. lock nut retaining etc etc..


then this locating block had to be turned up. it's slightly smaller in i.d than the springs seat bit, allowing clearance of the sleeve etc.. then the spring sits inside the walls.. sorta the opposite of the top hat seating set up..


lock nuts were made up to be adjustable for a bit of fine tuning and adjustability on the ride height thing.. adjusted with a pair of C spanners..


then add 4 of these eibach beasties...


and the final product..


so both coilies done..

[petefj40]

Bling bling! Nice!!

[redz driver]

Bling bling! Nice!!

Fark Hell yea thats pretty

[haydgq]

Yea well done they look awesome.

[rokhound]

They look like shiat. But hey I am fair and I will offer you the same deal as I did for Jafa when he made his, rather than just binning them, I will look at taking them off your hands, it won't even cost you a cent



Good job Nibbz, looking the shizzle

[IcedJohnno]

Nibs
Concept looks awesome and great execution. Well Done.

One point.
I have no idea of scale (read shaft ø) so I may have it wrong...
To me the threaded part of your rod ends will be the failure point. They are significantly smaller than the shaft ø, thus probably making them weaker than you have planned, amd possibly weaker than the orig.
As you know there is considerable stress put on shock shafts and that is the point that they generally fail.
You have added considerably to the loads that they will see by using the shocks as coil-overs as well.

[niblik]

too true.. have used chromoly heims to take the load compared to the std metal of the shaft only having a chromed surface, plus it'll be inline loadings on the locknut on the heim itself.. this combined with the extra long threaded section of heim recessed into the shock shaft too.. the shaft was approx 19mm in diameter, so heaps of wall thickness for thread purchase when threadin the heim's..

ultimately, time will tell..

[petefj40]

too true.. have used chromoly heims to take the load compared to the std metal of the shaft only having a chromed surface, plus it'll be inline loadings on the locknut on the heim itself.. this combined with the extra long threaded section of heim recessed into the shock shaft too.. the shaft was approx 19mm in diameter, so heaps of wall thickness for thread purchase when threadin the heim's..

ultimately, time will tell..

wow.
Do you fabricate steel stuff part time nibs? I'm impressed.

Clever bugga.

[flyingbrick]

Dont worry about the shocks failing near the joint. they have a ball in them for a reason. The only forces placed on that shaft will be in compression and tension (for lack of better words) and there will be NO lateral forces exerted on the shock or any part of the shock assuming everything is symetrical and nice.

And... you have done some awesome work there! I'm an apprentice turner and can really appreciate the work thats gone into doing that. I personally do not have the time or patience for anything like that....but I sure wish i did

KEEP IT UP... its working for you.

[IcedJohnno]

Dont worry about the shocks failing near the joint. they have a ball in them for a reason. The only forces placed on that shaft will be in compression and tension (for lack of better words) and there will be NO lateral forces exerted on the shock or any part of the shock assuming everything is symetrical and nice.

And... you have done some awesome work there! I'm an apprentice turner and can really appreciate the work thats gone into doing that. I personally do not have the time or patience for anything like that....but I sure wish i did

KEEP IT UP... its working for you.

Hmmm doubt that you are correct.

Yes the direction of travel is up or down the shaft.
No the forces are often not. Especially true when shocks are mounted on an angle which works well for 4wds. The reaction to the spring and shock forces then become vectors of both horizontal and vertical.
The horizontal forces will stress the heim joints at the weakest point, either just above the nut or below the eye where the end of the thread creates a stress raiser.

As Nibs has said Time will Tell....
The cro-molly joint will be a certain percentage stronger but I doubt it will match the reduction in surface area (shaft Ø to heim joint thread Ø) I suspect if they are reasonable shocks that the chromed shaft steel may well be better than mild s. as well.

[flyingbrick]

pretty sure it does not matter what angle the shocks are on. It would be different if the ends of the shock were fixed but they have heim joints there that stop any other force in any other direction.

[suzolla]

I would tend to agree with you Nathan as that is the intention of the heim's or rod ends, but do need to take into account that there will be a small amount of side load as the bottom still has the bush which will not move as freely as a heim.
The thing I would be a little bit concerned about is when the shock tops out, but then I guess it is the same a any normal non coil over set up.

Cheers
Tim

[hosehustler]

awesome works Jas
I'm on the time will tell bandwagon, it's the best judgement of backyard engineers, especially those coast trips

[niblik]

woot..! some decent discussion about tech! great to see.. cheers chaps..

last effort of the cage mounting was substandard to be honest.. so decided to modify it to go through body down to chassis for when i roll it.. mounted it like this (slightly angled) for a couple of reasons..
1; straight above the suspension arm mount to back it for strength slightly..
2; chassis is boxed at this point and not vertically below..
3; to create a tad more clearance in case i get bigger tyres for when they artic up..
4; cos i feckin can..





also made some diff mounts for the bottom of the coilovers.. still need to drill bolt holes, but thats tomoz..


still to do forward and rear cage's tub to chassis mounts..

[MNC]

why..., cos i feckin can...

Yes you can

All this progress is making me dizzy. Nice work. Paint that thing yellow and get out on the tracks (if only it was that easy)

[petefj40]

Might as well fizz up the body to the chassis then aye nibs?
I dunno. I'm no tech head. May have no clues. But that roll bar brace to the chassis looks suss.
(pete gets his flame suit on ready for the flaming)

[hosehustler]

Good point Pete, the body is now "hard wired" to the chassis there will be more vibration etc but ultimately a safer vehicle.
Good job on the tech side Pete you're catchin' on, and Nibz is merely being realistic for his needs

[Fakey]

Might as well fizz up the body to the chassis then aye nibs?

Is your cage not chassis mounted pete?
This is pretty much exactly the same chassis mounting style ive been working on with mine, nice work nibs

Dont worry about vibrations its a 40

[turoa]

I might have been inclined to use spring bushings or similar to go between the body and the chassis.

Mind you its ol rustys tub so the more connections to teh chassis the better

[lilpigzuk]

lmao, Clanky ole diesel powered and worried about vibrations
Nice work you gaysian

[petefj40]

Good point Pete, the body is now "hard wired" to the chassis there will be more vibration etc but ultimately a safer vehicle.
Good job on the tech side Pete you're catchin' on, and Nibz is merely being realistic for his needs

How right you are Tim.
His won't be a daily driver driven to Nelson and back often, so i guess the vibrations won't matter. it'll be stronger than mine would ever be with the cage bolted just to the body tub.

Like I said. I'm no tech head and yup, not a lot of clues either.

Nice work there nibs. I shouldn't doubt what you're up to.
Good to see so much getting done to mate!

[niblik]

open top, rusted 40 with a turb'd diesel and nibified suspension..

what is this 'vibration' you speak of?

i have a piece of slim 2 - 3mm butanol type stuff wedged between tub and top brace (not in pic sorry as this was trial fit beforehand).. it'll act as a slight vibration muting device as opposed to metal on metal but not budge out of the way upon roll over..

[niblik]

made 1... other to go..

[Heath]

Have seen a captive bush (I think that is what it is) mounted on the end of the roll bar-chassis strut and that is attached to a chassis mount. The idea being the mount is captive so locks it all in tight but the rubber mount removes some of the vibes to the body. And as a plus when you remove the body you can lift the cage mount off and out of the way too.