Aftermarket Stereo Installation

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eejay99
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Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

Hi,

Wiring up a new head-unit (Panasonic CQ-C1405W) after taking the stock toyota one (Model 08600-00750)out and have run into some issues. 1993 SSRG Surf, 2lte

Basically got everything going, power to the head unit, power antenna goes up and down on ignition, scans and fixes signals sweet, but no sound at all through the speakers!! Have checked the head unit by quickly installing in my other car, works sweet, and the old toyo head unit works as well when reinstalled back in the surf, so it has to involve the change of wiring I suppose.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf

The link above shows the wiring harness guide I was following, everything matched up sweet except that the 'J' pin had a green wire, and the "O" pin on the other connector had a white and black stripe wire. In that guide it says 'do not use' these pins... so does anyone know what those wires do? I heard that you need to ensure you are getting power to the speaker amps which come stock on the SSRG model, could these wires be outputs to the amps?

Finally, the 12V ignition in lead from the Surf (grey wire pin "C") no longer seems to be passing current, like a fuse has blown or something (this just happened the last time I tried to get the new head unit to work again...) Anyone know where the fuse for this is? In the drivers side kick panel?

Any help from you auto-sparky gurus out there would be appreciated...
Cheers
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mercutio
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by mercutio »

you been to supercheap auto as well i got one of those headunits today planning on installing it in my car thinking about getting another one for the g wagen :D
my 4wd is not a truck

old mercedes never die but sometimes they do need some love

older cars are good,mercedes are better,older mercedes are the best
eejay99
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

Checked drivers kick panel for fuse, 7.5A radio fuse blown.. this explains the lack of power from the 12V ignition lead, replaced and have power back. Not getting any illumination from my tester when connected to ground and 12V Battery now, is there another fuse for the direct 12V battery lead?
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UBZ
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by UBZ »

The rear powered speakers defiantly require a trigger the same as the Ariel to power on.(Ill will check on mine later and let you know the factory color codes)
This however should not stop sound from coming from the front speakers.
On my head deck there is another mini blade fuse on the rear of the head deck.
Also some head decks will not work properly without good Ariel ground or illumination wired up.

Failing that you need to check impedance of speakers that are installed(Should match the head deck). ie are they 4,6 or 8ohm? Again some head decks will not work if the impedance is incorrect (Doesn't match).
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UBZ
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by UBZ »

Factory color codes for the accessories trigger wires are (Black /Red Strip) and (Pink/ Blue Strip)
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eejay99
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

Cheers for that,

Yeah, I spliced the black/red and pink/blue together and attached to the power aerial wire from the head deck, this gives me the aerial power to go up and down, but no sound still. Do you know what the impedance in the stock speakers/ wires is?

I will check the head units stats this arvo and see if that could be the cause of the problem.

Still wondering about the additional wires that were in the stock head unit harness. Testing them gives no illumination so they aren't power leads from the vehicle, might try and feed them some power to see what happens!
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UBZ
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by UBZ »

what are the color codes of the additional wires i can check them against mine.

My stereo has 2 accessory wires, one for the rear speakers, and one for the Ariel. They are wired independently but if one is not connected neither speakers or Ariel will work.
If i remember rightly the factory speakers in the front have a 6ohm impedance, but should accept 4ohm no props.
You can use a 1.5vAA battery (ONLY) on the speaker cables to test the speakers ,will make a small popping sound if the speaker is ok.
LR110 ..... LJ50 project :roll:
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rangimotors
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by rangimotors »

what part of the country are ya in?
Never argue with an idiot, they drag you down to their level then beat you with experiance!
eejay99
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

(From 1st Post at start of thread)

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf

The link above shows the wiring harness guide I was following, everything matched up sweet except that the 'J' pin had a green wire, and the "O" pin on the other connector had a white and black stripe wire.


The green wire in 'J' was a darker colour than the green in 'A'. I gave both of them some juice independently via one of the head deck accessory outputs (the amp one I think (blue+white stripe), which from memory is a 2V output on the unit but will have to check when I get home) anyway, I got that quiet speaker popping sound when I did this. I will check with a 1.5V AA direct to the speakers later to see if I get that pop sound again.
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2MEKE
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by 2MEKE »

eejay99 wrote: Do you know what the impedance in the stock speakers/ wires is?

I'd be looking to replace them cause unless they've already been changed, chances are the new head unit will destroy them.
I put some 4" Panasonic ($30 @ supercheap) in the front and it made a huge difference.
I've been told the rears are 2 ohm.

Still wondering about the additional wires that were in the stock head unit harness. Testing them gives no illumination so they aren't power leads from the vehicle, might try and feed them some power to see what happens!

One is probably connected to the lighting circuit - used to trigger the dimmer in your head unit (if it has one)
eejay99
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

Yeah, new speakers will be the next step if I cant get the stockies to fire up, I was trying to avoid having to crack the panels open at the moment, but I will just replace with straight speakers or try and bypass the amps if I can't sort it soon, I need to get my tunes cranking as got some good roadies planned!
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UBZ
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by UBZ »

the rears are a 4", 2ohm speaker, but they have their own built in amplifiers and are in a fancy plastic box. The small sound you have heard when connecting the accessory wire, is the amplifier in the speaker powering on.

To change the rear speakers you need to remove all the rear panel work and pull out the plastic speaker boxes / amp enclosures.
Build some custom boxes to fit in the same place. Tricky not alot of room to work with.
I managed to fit 6" 3 ways in the space, but would have liked more volume in the boxes for better bass response. (Ill try and find some pics)
Then open up the grills in the rear panels to let all the sound out.
LR110 ..... LJ50 project :roll:
Chris.
eejay99
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

Did you tie your new speakers into the existing in-line amp system, bypass it or run completely new speaker wire through from the head unit?

Checked the speakers again last night, I can hear the amp powering up, but still no sound. Speaker impedance is 2ohm and Head unit 4 - 8 ohm. Could this mismatch be the cause of the problem? The original head-unit also has an output impedance of 4 ohm though.

Think I might just bite the bullet, grab some new speakers, run new lines the whole way through, and worry about an amp later.

Bring on the panel removal nightmare...

Cheers for the help guys.
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UBZ
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by UBZ »

I installed completely new rear speakers and power them off the head deck. Ran new cables to the rear.
You will not be able to use the in-built rear amplifiers for after market speakers.

Rear panels aren't to hard to get off , you need to take out the rear center section first (With rear light in it) and then the side panels, undo all the screws under covers and the panels should just pop off with a little force. Don't force any thing to hard, if it wont come you still have screws in place that need to come out.

Remember though that if you are planing on replacing the rear speakers you need to build custom speaker boxes for your new speakers.

Where abouts in NZ are you , Ive had more than enough experience in removing rear panels if you want a hand.

C
LR110 ..... LJ50 project :roll:
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eejay99
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Re: Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Post by eejay99 »

I'm south man, Chch, looks like its going to rain all weekend, so I will have some time up my sleeve to deal with this. Will probably make up some MDF mounts for the new speakers when I get them, probably just go for 4 new 4" at the moment.

Anyone got any tips on the best value for money for 4" speakers at the moment???

Bizarre the problem with the system though... maybe taking the panels off will reveal the cause. I might splice the head unit directly into the speakers beyond the amp if possible to see once and for all if thats the cause. Otherwise its Murphy's that I'm missing the simplest thing.
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