Ive got a Warn xd9000 which needs a service. Its flattening batteries and filling up with water. Where abouts is the best place to get this done around Timaru? Any ideas on a price?
Cheers
Nick
Warn Winch Service
Re: Warn Winch Service
hello
maby try a motor rewinders, i could break it down and clean it up for you, but im miles away in Waitakere
scott
maby try a motor rewinders, i could break it down and clean it up for you, but im miles away in Waitakere
scott
1991 Hilux ,solid front axle ,3.0 2jzge,crane
Re: Warn Winch Service
to go a step further, has anyone got any info on what to do for a service if ya want to do it yourself... mines crackling like an 80 y/o smokers lungs.
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KEEP'N JEEP'N!
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KEEP'N JEEP'N!
Re: Warn Winch Service
XJ, they are pretty simple to pull apart and have a look, all the planetry gears can only go back in one way.
Undo the two bolts on the back of the motor to take that off as a starting point, and then you can get that checked out.
The brakes are inside the drum and most likely the cause of any problems. Complicated little things too.
Undo the two bolts on the back of the motor to take that off as a starting point, and then you can get that checked out.
The brakes are inside the drum and most likely the cause of any problems. Complicated little things too.
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods 

- flyingbrick
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 1725
- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:36 pm
- Location: Hamilton/Auckland
Re: Warn Winch Service
I did my old warn a year or so back. Its damn easy but take pics and make drawings if you are a little challenged in that area.
You may not need to bother with the brake and its a bit of a b-stard imo so just do the motor and gearbox and try it all out- if it needs to be done worry about it after.
I did my winch because the free-spool had jammed up which made things more difficult but basically you just want to tape the rope to the spool so it doesn't spring out and unravel everywhere and then pull the thing to bits.
The gearbox is pretty self explanatory and there is nothing too difficult in there. Just strip it down and clean out all the old bad grease etc and if you feel the need scotchbrite/media blast everything to remove any rust and scum. Assemble with a good grease- I used one which is supposed to be especially tolerant of water and moisture.
Then strip the motor down and give everything a good blow out. Check the com and brushes for wear- my stuff was only very lightly worn so didn't need to be touched.
If your com is looking very ugly and/or has worn down to the mica (the insulating stuff between the copper bars of the com) you'll have to get it renewed by a re-winder.
Make yourself a sharp tool or scratching device which fits in the slots and make sure there is no carbon in the slots. Scrape the slots out until you can see a white line of mica through the bottom. The cleaner the better as the carbon will allow current to track between bars which is bad.
Give the com a quick rub with some scotchbrite to make it all shiney and remove any hard edges or copper burs from your scratching then blow it all out to make sure there is nothing left in the slots.
Check that your brushes are still OK and replace if necessary (they'd have to wear a LOT or be broken to be not usable) and check that the springs which push the brushes into the com are there and working.
Give your windings etc a visual inspection and make sure there are no black/charred or melted areas. You'll smell severe damage as it smells rank as sh*t.
Cant remember exactly what in there but im pretty sure there is only one actual bearing (drive end of the motor). Give it a flick and make sure its not crunchy or notchy feeling. It should be a sealed bearing and it will have a code etched into one side of the outer race which can be used to buy a replacement if needed (yellow pages; bearings). Check the bushes for excessive wear. Mine did not need replacement- Warn will sell them however.
I'm 90% sure there should be no seals in your winch but I've been wrong before. Warn will have them in their rebuild kit if they are needed. If there are no seals for motor or box I'd probably take a slightly unorthodox approach and maybe drill a drain hole in the bottom of the gearbox. If you submerge the thing then reality is that its going to take on water. Better IMO to give the water an easy way out so things have a chance to dry.
Hope i helped somewhat.
You may not need to bother with the brake and its a bit of a b-stard imo so just do the motor and gearbox and try it all out- if it needs to be done worry about it after.
I did my winch because the free-spool had jammed up which made things more difficult but basically you just want to tape the rope to the spool so it doesn't spring out and unravel everywhere and then pull the thing to bits.
The gearbox is pretty self explanatory and there is nothing too difficult in there. Just strip it down and clean out all the old bad grease etc and if you feel the need scotchbrite/media blast everything to remove any rust and scum. Assemble with a good grease- I used one which is supposed to be especially tolerant of water and moisture.
Then strip the motor down and give everything a good blow out. Check the com and brushes for wear- my stuff was only very lightly worn so didn't need to be touched.
If your com is looking very ugly and/or has worn down to the mica (the insulating stuff between the copper bars of the com) you'll have to get it renewed by a re-winder.
Make yourself a sharp tool or scratching device which fits in the slots and make sure there is no carbon in the slots. Scrape the slots out until you can see a white line of mica through the bottom. The cleaner the better as the carbon will allow current to track between bars which is bad.
Give the com a quick rub with some scotchbrite to make it all shiney and remove any hard edges or copper burs from your scratching then blow it all out to make sure there is nothing left in the slots.
Check that your brushes are still OK and replace if necessary (they'd have to wear a LOT or be broken to be not usable) and check that the springs which push the brushes into the com are there and working.
Give your windings etc a visual inspection and make sure there are no black/charred or melted areas. You'll smell severe damage as it smells rank as sh*t.
Cant remember exactly what in there but im pretty sure there is only one actual bearing (drive end of the motor). Give it a flick and make sure its not crunchy or notchy feeling. It should be a sealed bearing and it will have a code etched into one side of the outer race which can be used to buy a replacement if needed (yellow pages; bearings). Check the bushes for excessive wear. Mine did not need replacement- Warn will sell them however.
I'm 90% sure there should be no seals in your winch but I've been wrong before. Warn will have them in their rebuild kit if they are needed. If there are no seals for motor or box I'd probably take a slightly unorthodox approach and maybe drill a drain hole in the bottom of the gearbox. If you submerge the thing then reality is that its going to take on water. Better IMO to give the water an easy way out so things have a chance to dry.
Hope i helped somewhat.

phone Ross Bolus (secretary of the BOP club) He'll save you.
Re: Warn Winch Service
Good work flyingbrick, I haven't drilled anything in the gearbox but I only put Morey's oil stabiliser in there - no grease or oil.
It is super sticky stuff and is designed for that application.
Water can not get anywhere near the metals as it is as sticky as anything. Just squirt a bit in there, don't overdose.
I pull the gearbox off every year or so and pour the water out then put it back on, the water beads and has not touched the gears.
Earths on the Warn 4.6 motors are a known poor spot, I have modified mine.
It is super sticky stuff and is designed for that application.
Water can not get anywhere near the metals as it is as sticky as anything. Just squirt a bit in there, don't overdose.
I pull the gearbox off every year or so and pour the water out then put it back on, the water beads and has not touched the gears.
Earths on the Warn 4.6 motors are a known poor spot, I have modified mine.
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods 

Re: Warn Winch Service
Awesome guys, thank you.
Ill have a little nosy next weekend.
Cheers
Mark
Ill have a little nosy next weekend.
Cheers
Mark
/| , [____],
l----L -OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)-----)_)
KEEP'N JEEP'N!
l----L -OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)-----)_)
KEEP'N JEEP'N!
Re: Warn Winch Service
Hey Nick
I have a Warn service manual for the Xd9000...in pdf (5MB).
Can email it to you....Shows you how to pull down and assemble again.
The motor can be tested at a motor rewinder.....
The warn brushes are expensive....
I stuffed mine up last year and replaced it with a ComeUp motor.
Had to do some mods to it....as mine is an XD9000i....
Cheers
Calvin
I have a Warn service manual for the Xd9000...in pdf (5MB).
Can email it to you....Shows you how to pull down and assemble again.
The motor can be tested at a motor rewinder.....
The warn brushes are expensive....
I stuffed mine up last year and replaced it with a ComeUp motor.
Had to do some mods to it....as mine is an XD9000i....
Cheers
Calvin
Cheers Calvin
KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado...
KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado...
Re: Warn Winch Service
Instead of emailing it out...
Here is a link
http://www.mediafire.com/file/4lnykdwli ... et_XD9.pdf
Will leave it up for a few weeks..
Cheers
Calvin
Here is a link
http://www.mediafire.com/file/4lnykdwli ... et_XD9.pdf
Will leave it up for a few weeks..
Cheers
Calvin

Cheers Calvin
KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado...
KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado...
- flyingbrick
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 1725
- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:36 pm
- Location: Hamilton/Auckland
Re: Warn Winch Service
Forgot to mention- I work for a motor re winders.
Work mates have said that re-winding the winch armatures is actually pretty tricky because of how the wires are stuffed in there (at the factory they are wound on by a machine obviously) and hand winding them on is not really an option.
HOWEVER we can test anything you require and if you have one that DOES require we-winding im sure adding beer into the equation could make things easier for everyone.
-Nathan
Work mates have said that re-winding the winch armatures is actually pretty tricky because of how the wires are stuffed in there (at the factory they are wound on by a machine obviously) and hand winding them on is not really an option.
HOWEVER we can test anything you require and if you have one that DOES require we-winding im sure adding beer into the equation could make things easier for everyone.
-Nathan
phone Ross Bolus (secretary of the BOP club) He'll save you.